goobertech

Hey guys I have owned 2 toyotas before but not a 22re. Its been a few years so I'm a lil rusty (much like my new rig lol). To get familiar with it, the PO put a new motor in. As far as i know, its a stock 22re. I bought a timing gun right after I did a tune-up just to check and found its somewhere around 20 degrees BTDC. I did not have an advanced timing gun so that is a rough estimate. I tried putting it at 12 degrees but it ran poorly, had no power, popping out of the exhaust and the exhaust manifold glowed (like its too retarded). I turned it back up to 20 degrees and it runs perfect. Loads of power, no popping, it doesn't backfire out of the intake, better throttle response and the manifold stopped glowing. My question is what will I destroy by running it that far advanced? Or is there a possibility this motor has an aftermarket cam I wasn't told about?

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

I might of missed it but whats the year your working with?

The diagnostic terminals E1 and TE1 have to be shorted before you set the timing or else it will be way off.

Here's what they look like.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

goobertech

I'm sorry. I didn't post the year. It's an 87 4runner IFS 22re. I did the jumper just now and it didn't change anything its still the same timing degree with or without the jumper. But now that I know how to get codes, I'm getting an rpm sensor code and an o2 sensor code (even though I installed the o2 sensor on it yesterday) if that helps the diagnosing process.

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

First thing I would do it check the timing. Could just be that the distributor is off a tooth. If everything checks out then there is another issue.

This thread might help narrow down the issues you are having.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...-start-247313/

Here is a link to the FSM. Very handy to keep around.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/87-4Runne...4runner_88.pdf

abecedarian

If timing didn't change when inserting the jumper, my first consideration would be the throttle isn't signalling to the ECU it is closed.
Checking the TPS operation should be done.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

goobertech

The TPS isn't plugged in. I have been looking for the plug since I bought it and haven't found anything.

Marc

You'll need to get the TPS working before you can check the timing.

goobertech

Ok I'll work on that. Thanks guys. Another question while you are on here, I have stock gears with a Detroit locker in the rear runnin 35's. I have heard with the Detroit I should have to tighten the rear pinion nut once a year or so, depending on how much I drive it. I noticed a vibration when letting off the throttle so i checked the pinions and u-joints. My rear pinion has play in it (left to right, up and down, in and out) and the rear pinion seal is leaking pretty badly. I used a clicker and torqued it to 90ft/lbs and it still wobbled, i kept going in 10ft/lb increments up to 150ft/lbs (the max I have heard people tightening it) that still didn't solve the issue, I don't know how long the PO drove it like this so in your experence, could the pinion bearings be bad, or is it more likely that I'm torquing against a stuck flange?

abecedarian

It shouldn't be too hard to miss. It's a fairly large, black plug, about 1.5" x 3/4" or so with 4 wires going to it. It's probably stuffed somewhere on top of the intake, or maybe flopped and hanging over the front of the manifold.

Likely, the pinion bearings are bad, if not the pinion shaft itself.
Zuk or WaskillyWabbit on the forums would likely be able to give you more information about that- I hate dealing with gears.

goobertech

I hate dealing with gears also, I know how to, all I need r the specs. I'm probably gonna end up doing it myself because the labor is going to cost me about $750-$1000. If I get all the parts together, I could do it in a day.