TNRabbit

Is the vibration only at idle? Is it a rattle or vibration your feel? Did you oil up your fan bracket like I suggested? Did it have any play in it? Did you torque both cam sprockets & the crank pulley down? (I forgot to torque both my cam sprockets last time & was wondering what the "rattle" was coming from the front end!)

buckz6319

TNRabbit...the vibration (not a rattle) is at idle and can be felt through the steering wheel and front bumper and is worse when the AC compressor is on.I know I have bad bearings in the ac pulley so maybe that is still causing my vibrations?.I also know that my PS pulley shaft has some play in and out and the belt doesn't run on the pulley groove correctly either.I have removed the ps belt and drove the 4runner down the road to see if there was any changes to the vibrations. but I had power steering fluid blowing out all over my engine without that belt being on.I really don't know why that happened and I forgot if removing that belt did anything to the vibrations because I was concerned with the mess I had to clean up under the hood

I also can still feel the vibration through the auto shifter stick when at high rpms above 2,000 so maybe it's engine related i'm not sure at this point

The fan bracket shaft bearings were smooth without even a hint of a problem but I took your advice and put oil on the back side of the bearing seal and let it soak for a whole day and thanks for the tip

I didn't remove my camshaft pulleys but I will check the bolts for looseness and thanks for the tip.I did torque the crank bolt to specs and what a pain that was

This 4runner was a lease SUV for 12 years( before I purchased it) so I guess things just got run into the ground so to speak, and now I'm having to fix all that didn't get fixed...

TNRabbit

Remove your A/C belt & see if that cures the problem....

buckz6319

TNRabbit...I removed the ac belt and it did make some difference but not enough.
The vibration I feel when I'm at idle in Park(engine rpms 750 ish) and feels much worse when I shift into R and and hold the brake & in Drive with brake on just sitting still like I was stopped at a traffic light or stop sign.I feel a little bump when I come to a stop kinda like a soft bump.The floor vibrates and steering wheel and shifter and I can feel it really bad when I turn off the O.D. while doing 50ish and above.....so I'm thinking I need to look at the transmission more or something else.
I'm not giving up my goal of finding out what is causing the problem I've been hunting down this for almost a year now and have lots of threads on my vibrations
thanks for the help
Dwayne

TNRabbit

Clutch not aligned properly? Flywheel issue?

buckz6319

TNRabbit...I think that I'm going to put a ps pump on this 4runner because the ps shaft has a lot of play in and out and I have noticed when I removed the ps belt again last night,the bumper wasn't vibrating as bad.
The pulley on that pump is huge and with it attached to that ps shaft is could cause a lot of vibration throught the front of the 4runner including the shifter stick?

TNRabbit

I'm not sure; how bad is it warped? Got a video of it running?

buckz6319

Power steering belt twisting at the bottom when engine is running

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Take a look at this video i took just a while ago and let me know what you think is going on.The power steering pulley is on left side of screen and the bottom of the belt is twisting as i raise the rpms of the engine(you have to pay close attention or you will not see what is going on).The higher the rpms the more the belt twist and looks like it's flooping in the wind..I do know that the V-belt doesn't ride in the center of the ps pulley.
I think this is part of my vibration I'm getting through the front bumper.I would like some feed back and some opinions on what is happening.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMxI8REct9c
.I did have some play in the pulley shaft in and out and also the belt I removed has a distinct corner curve in it but I can't figure out why?....I'm thinking I need to investigate this more and replace that pump because the shaft is moving in and out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3J-TU-nMSQg
[IMG]
Dwayne
__________________

TNRabbit

OK, is it our of alignment with the other pulleys or is it actually wobbly/warped?

buckz6319

TNRabbit
I put a rebuilt ps pump on the 4runner today took about 2 hrs not a lot of room to work in their.The rebuilt ps pump shaft has the same amount of play in the shaft as the one I took off so I think that is normal.
I put a new v-belt on and started up the engine and I be dam the belt is wobbling again. I need to figure out if the ps pulley is warped or one of the others but I'm having a hard time trying to determin wich one is the culprit
I wonder if the fan blades are forcing the belt to fludder at the bottom?
Well back to the drawing board
Dwayne

buckz6319

Well after a week of driving the 4runner and no water leaks until today
I see some water leaking out of the "NEW" water pump weep hole (I think that is where some water is coming from) and some ware along the bottom and running down on to the top of the oil pan flange
I can see water flowing out while engine is running and it seems to stop once it sets and cools down.
.... GOSH!.... why did it wait a whole week then leak on Sunday "Today" this evening of all days.I have to go to work tomorrow and I guess I'm going to carry some water in gallon jugs just to make it through the week.

I would like to know... do I have to completely remove the timing belt?
It looks like once I remove some parts that is in the way. I can just loosen the tension on the belt then remove the belt (make sure all timing marks are lined up forst) from the camshaft pulleys and idler #2 to get at the water pump remove it and see what is going on with it or the gasket material.I used the supplyied gasket that came with the wp....maybe I should have put some other material on the mating surfaces along with that cardboard gasket.
I think maybe the wp is deffective but not sure
any advice on what to do?
thanks
Dwayne

TNRabbit

I've not had a WP leak like that new; you shouldn't have needed to put anything on the gasket as long as the mating surface was clean.

What brand WP did you get?

buckz6319

TNRabbit...I purchased the WP from O'Reilly's....and I don't remember what the brand was.
I traced the leak to the weep hole on the pump just behind the pulley.
Well looks like I'm back to removing the WP and returning the defective one back to O'Rilley's for exchange

TNRabbit

SERIOUSLY, Just buy a TOYOTA and you won't have to worry again!

buckz6319

I have replaced the new water pump that was leaking(from the weep hole) with another brand (Cardon,Rock auto sales them so I hope that is a good brand, I couldn't afford the Toyota OE WP with all the cutbacks and stuff from work ) and it was about a 3hr job and every thing went well.I hope that this new WP will not leak from the weep hole like the the other.

I don't want to go through the process of removal and replacement again for a while but I know now how to do the job!

Timing belt and all related components idler pulleys and tensioner are all still working fine. I will close this thread on that note but may revisit it in the future if I need to

Thanks for all the advice yotatech members I could not have done it without all your experiences

TNRabbit

YW~ Glad you got everything back working again!

grizzlyh

Just wanted to add that this post helped me TONS! I would not have been able to change out my timing belt this past weekend without some of the tips here. you guys rock. I just wanted to clarify a couple of things that I needed to do on my job. First, the poster mentions that he used a 1/4" wobbly and I am pretty sure he meant it. I tried with a 3/8 drive wobbly and could not access the bolts for the No.2 Idler. With the 1/4" drive 6-inch extension, it was literally a breeze. Second, I needed to take the fan clutch and fan off the bracket to get the fan idler bracket out of the car. I have a/c so maybe that was the difference. I tried to remove one of the cam sprocket bolts and it was ridiculously tight. If you are going to try that make sure to get the sprocket wrench which someone mentioned was available at O' Reileys via special order (I did not have time to order it by the time i saw it). In any event, just wanted to add my measley contribution on the off chance it helps the next guy. Thanks again for all the superb information guys!

ledfootfam

I got a quick q? I have a coolant leak in the front of the engine that just arose when i replaced a bad thermostat and restored water pressure its leaking around the upper water inlet and im thinking it might be just the seal between the inlet the the idler puller inlet but i was wondering could it also be the seal between the pulley and the block? If so what would be some tell tale signs that its leaking under the timing belt cover?

devo

hey guys...thanks for the tool design bugs...
....
.....made it to spec...was stoked and ready....bent the sh#t out of it with first go on the cheater bar....they must be locktited on or something....already had the torch on it and the impact gun....
...gun had a small pressure tank...so could only go like 80 for a minute or so...
...my next move is going to get a bigger compressor....maybe weld up a one piece tool out of 3/8" plate....
....anyone had bastards like this....my cheater bar is like 5ft long...plenty leverage...these things are on there....

mahalos...
devo

XxX_4_play_offroad

first time on a forum fair warning- lots of incredible info so helpful, im actually doing timing belt job right now on 92 yota pickup v6 sr5 . the only thing i could get to fit in for 2 back bolts on idler pulley/water outlet was a 1/4 in drive 12mm flex socket and it snapped taking them out. my question is if i get another one will it be able to handle the torque to get it to spec. speaking of i have found conflicting torque specs for those bolts, i've read 15lbs and somewhere else says 27lbs ??? any input would be greatly appreciated