timing and distributer on 3vze
#1
timing and distributer on 3vze
I have tried to answer my question by reading other threads and have not gotten very far.
i am doing my timing belt and i am trying to line up the cams and crank properly. i have a problem with the right cam being one tooth off after putting the tensioner on. i know what needs to be done to correct this problem. now since i am turning each individual cam and the crank individually to line up the markings, should i be concerned with the distributor not being lined up at cylinder #1 when everything is at tdc? also, will the "screwdriver-in-#1-spark-plug-hole" test be sufficient to make sure the crank is at tdc compression and not exhaust stroke?
thanks in advance!
i am doing my timing belt and i am trying to line up the cams and crank properly. i have a problem with the right cam being one tooth off after putting the tensioner on. i know what needs to be done to correct this problem. now since i am turning each individual cam and the crank individually to line up the markings, should i be concerned with the distributor not being lined up at cylinder #1 when everything is at tdc? also, will the "screwdriver-in-#1-spark-plug-hole" test be sufficient to make sure the crank is at tdc compression and not exhaust stroke?
thanks in advance!
Last edited by sloRunner; 12-12-2010 at 05:40 PM.
#2
Registered User
By lining up the three marks (crank, and both cams) you are setting up the timing on the compression stroke. It is impossible for the cam timing to be any other way if the marks are lined up. The distributor will be pointing at the number 1 position unless you removed it also during the process. The FSM will show you how to install the distributor if you have also removed it (it's a good idea to replace the o-ring on the distributor to stop the inevitable oil leak onto the alternator.)
#3
Registered User
Position the driver side cam pulley exactly on the mark. Position the passenger cam pulley a half tooth clockwise of the mark (as viewed from the front of the vehicle looking back). Position the crankshaft pulley a half tooth counter-clockwise. Mount the lower idler pulley (the tensioner on 88-91 trucks) but tighten it as much out of the way as possible (against the tension spring).
Then place belt around driver cam pulley (if using a toyota belt there will be timing marks on the belt). Then route belt under upper idler and around passenger cam pulley. Then position passenger cam pulley exactly on the mark - the belt should now have no slackness between the cam pulleys. Route belt around water pump pulley and then around crankshaft pulley. Position crankshaft pulley exactly on mark - there should now be no slackness between driver cam, water pump and crank pulley. Route belt around tensioner pulley, and loosen the adjustment bolt so pulley is free to press against and tension the belt.
92-95 have a slightly different idler pulley design with a tensioner, which the 88-91 engines lack. Follow fsm procedure for tensioning belt on the newer motors. To tension the belt on the earlier design, attach lower idler & spring with mounting bolt not fully tight so pulley can move, rotate crankshaft two full revolutions clockwise (viewed from front looking back) TDC to TDC so the spring can tension belt, then torque lower idler to 27 ft lbs, leaving spring in place. Check that the marks on both cam pulleys align with the marks on the backplate. On my veezy, the cam marks do not exactly align with the backplate marks when crank at TDC, but when in the right position the marked cam tooth is closer to the backplate mark than any other tooth is. (If you used a Toyota belt with timing marks, those will have traveled.)
Then place belt around driver cam pulley (if using a toyota belt there will be timing marks on the belt). Then route belt under upper idler and around passenger cam pulley. Then position passenger cam pulley exactly on the mark - the belt should now have no slackness between the cam pulleys. Route belt around water pump pulley and then around crankshaft pulley. Position crankshaft pulley exactly on mark - there should now be no slackness between driver cam, water pump and crank pulley. Route belt around tensioner pulley, and loosen the adjustment bolt so pulley is free to press against and tension the belt.
92-95 have a slightly different idler pulley design with a tensioner, which the 88-91 engines lack. Follow fsm procedure for tensioning belt on the newer motors. To tension the belt on the earlier design, attach lower idler & spring with mounting bolt not fully tight so pulley can move, rotate crankshaft two full revolutions clockwise (viewed from front looking back) TDC to TDC so the spring can tension belt, then torque lower idler to 27 ft lbs, leaving spring in place. Check that the marks on both cam pulleys align with the marks on the backplate. On my veezy, the cam marks do not exactly align with the backplate marks when crank at TDC, but when in the right position the marked cam tooth is closer to the backplate mark than any other tooth is. (If you used a Toyota belt with timing marks, those will have traveled.)
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