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Timing Chain Noise?

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Old 03-31-2009, 07:04 PM
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Timing Chain Noise?

What does it sound like.....? does it sound like an exhaust leak mixed with injector ticking? Does it go away after a few minutes, once oil pressure builds up and stuff gets warm.

I think my son's 94 22re is in need of a new timing chain. Man people want an arm and leg to replace it. The local Dealership starts at $1200, no extra parts, that is just the labor and install of the timing chain. No water pump or oil pump, belts or fluids. Another local shop wanted $1450. I found a small one man shop that will do it for $800, and he will use a new front cover, oil pump, water pump and fluids.

Difference is the first 2 places take the head off, 3rd guy just drops the pan. 8 bills is better than 15 bills, especially when I have to pay for the repair. The kid has no job and no money, he cant even drive until next month.

If someone could confirm the chain death rattle I would appreciate it
thanks

Last edited by metalhed; 03-31-2009 at 07:06 PM.
Old 03-31-2009, 08:06 PM
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In the words of Deathcougar, "it sounds like a can of spoons" under your hood. I didn't hear mine let go, it was gone when I bought it. Also, if it's anything like the 22r, there's no need to pull the head, just the valve cover, the timing cover, and the front 2 oil pan bolts. I pulled my radiator for easy access, but...that's just me.
Old 03-31-2009, 08:17 PM
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Yup'.. a rattle type sound at start up then goes away after a few seconds. and will only get louder over time. more than that, the chain will eventually eat its way though the timing cover & then the cover will have to be replaced too.

According to toyota, the removal of both cylinder head and oil pan is required. (by the book)..
But there's a back door version too, (like the 8 bill guy) & thats removal of the oil pan only. but there's risks doing it this way. oil leaks can occur if not done properly.

As for shop rates, it can vary from one to the other. and going with toyota, is probably the most expensive end of the scale, realistically.
and it should go down from there.

Any mechanics in your family?

Mike
Old 03-31-2009, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Skoalbandit
In the words of Deathcougar, "it sounds like a can of spoons" under your hood.

Haha, you can thank me for that

Other than that, it does sound like that. Certain Rpm range itll sound like a ratteling/clinking noise up front.
Take off your valve cover and look down towards the front part, look at the drivers guide chain guide, if you see it. Then it should be fine, if you dont find anything.. Well then your found your can of spoons!
Old 03-31-2009, 08:45 PM
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[quote=874runnersr5;51104823]Haha, you can thank me for that
quote]

Haha I do believe that was the very first thread I ever read completely on here... I was doing my chain at the time lol.

Also, if the chain guide has let go, it could have worn through a water jacket on the back side of the chain as well, check for water in the oil. If the chain blew apart like mine, I highly recommend the dropping the pan guy, he might clean the chunks of chain out for ya!
Old 03-31-2009, 08:59 PM
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also chunks of plastic from the guide
Old 04-01-2009, 01:04 AM
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nothing more satisfying than doing the work yourself...
oh, and it's cheaper too.
Old 04-01-2009, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
nothing more satisfying than doing the work yourself...
oh, and it's cheaper too.
Haha satisfying? When I work on my own truck, I bleed like a stuffed pig... Yet I'm a mechanic on heavy equipment. But you're right, it's far cheaper.
Old 04-01-2009, 07:15 AM
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Thanks for the info, I was asking more for the Wife's ease of mind. She believes the truck is a money pit and wanted to make sure the problem was correctly identified. She is concerned that my son has spent a ton of money getting this truck, and fixing it up. So far we have only repaired or replaced worn out and broken items,.. shocks, tires, all fluids etc. This is the first major repair.

I could do this at home, but so far I have done all of the repairs, with help from my son, but do not want to push the envelope. This truck has put up a fight at every repair, bolt heads round off, rusted and stuck items, lost or missing items. Better to let a paid mechanic deal with this bigger issue.
Old 04-01-2009, 07:33 AM
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I just had a guy in ft. collins do mine for $500. He replaced the chain, tensioners, sprockets, seals, water pump, belts. etc. He charged $250 for laber and parts came to $250. He did a really good job. He works out of his garage. PM me if you want his number. So far he had done two of out Toyota work trucks and no worries at all.
Old 04-01-2009, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by metalhed
Thanks for the info, I was asking more for the Wife's ease of mind. She believes the truck is a money pit and wanted to make sure the problem was correctly identified. She is concerned that my son has spent a ton of money getting this truck, and fixing it up. So far we have only repaired or replaced worn out and broken items,.. shocks, tires, all fluids etc. This is the first major repair.

I could do this at home, but so far I have done all of the repairs, with help from my son, but do not want to push the envelope. This truck has put up a fight at every repair, bolt heads round off, rusted and stuck items, lost or missing items. Better to let a paid mechanic deal with this bigger issue.
Describing the difficulties with other repairs you've done, maybe best to have someone familiar with the job do it. I did my own at 150,000 miles. I had no problems with the crankshaft bolt or head and pan gaskets. The guides were shot and pieces somewhere in the crankcase and the timing cover was grooved, but not leaking yet. I followed the stuff here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

and another similar one. Also have the factory manual. Didn't have to disturb the head or pan. Got parts from rockauto, engnbldr, and a few things at the stealer. 12,000 miles on it and running great. No leaks. Good luck on it. $500 including parts is a deal if the parts are quality. If you do it yourself, don't tap the damper off; use the correct tool. I had to replace the damper on mine too. Old one vibrated when it was back together.
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