coonhound

When you guys do your timing chain do you drop the pan to rinstall the timing chain cover? What a gong show to pull the oil pan. my problem is that i just did the timing chain on my 22re got it all back together and its leaking water at the bottom corner of the cover right where it meets the pan. I'm assuming that when i pushed the cover on it smooged some RTV from the pan onto the gasket that fits the TC cover. Creating a crappy seal.FUDGE FUDGE FUDGE. Anybody have a trick here so i don't have to pull everything back off? Maybe something i'm not seeing. My vision is clouded with rage!!!

ismdipun

Wonderful! thanks for the info that you guys have been discussing. Awesome!!!!

TOYOTA 1

i always pull the pan so that does not happen. but im sure others have been successful leaving it on.

also before you put it on next time, dab some rtv on the top of the t-chain cover (where it meets the head) and be careful not to damage the front of the hg while installing the cover.

92 TOY

post #2 looks like spam.

i have seen timing chain posts with and without pulling the head and pan (just droping it a bit. but leaking from the head, the pan, or in COONHOUND's case, the timing cover makes me nervous as anything. so i have my head off and will be taking my pan off.

see my thread below, i'm asking about my pan right now.

TOYOTA 1

you do not have to take your head off to install a timing set. in fact i would recommend that you leave it on (unless your already going to change the hg).

coonhound

what i hope i can do is loosen the pan even a 1/4" fix the TC gasket then tighten the pan back as if nothing happened and hope my pan RTV stays intact. otherwise i will fill the crankcase with tears of dissapointment

92 TOY

i thought FIPG on the oil pan?

and won't you disturb the seal on the whole pan and timing cover by messing wth them???

my case, i needed the head off, due to massive water in oil........looks like a timing cover chain victim tough.

coonhound

never had a problem with RTV. I just did the HG so don't want to disturb it. Just did the front end (balljoints, tierods , pitmant the whole works) which is why i don't want to tear it apart to get the pan out. Think i know what i have to do just bitchn about it now. One tiny leak. 6hrs work.

93_22re

i pulled the pan when i done it.. i had just recently did the intake and headgasket.. i had to remove the 3 bolts to drop the front end.. along with most of the steering componets

just dont forget about the bolt in the front of the head.. and while your in there re-torque the headbolts

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

i just tore down my motor yesterday for t-chain replacement and what a pain in the ass it was to get the damn oil pan out! now i wish i had done this 6months ago when i had my front diff out for gears. i had to drop my IFS brace and decided to take out the front diff w/the crossmember this time because i didn't drain it and it takes some funky positioning to get it out/in. tried taking it out the oil pan after the diff was out, then and realized i needed to drop the steering relay rod down (via the idler arm) to get the pan to clear the oil pickup tube. after this, i prized it loose and found 80% of my chain guide down there, yay!

TOYOTA 1

^ thats another reason to drop the pan, to give it a good ol cleaning

Jay351

No reason to touch the steering componants to drop the pan.

Just unbolt the diff and front d-shaft. Then you can undo the electrical connection and rotate the diff down out of the way.

This gives you just enough room to pull the pan down, then unbolt the pickup tube and pull the whole shibang out.

TOYOTA 1

no reason to unbolt the pickup tube or front d shaft if you drop the steering arm.


its all preference..

Jay351

You might not need to unbolt the front shaft but I found it easier to get it out of the way.

I found it easier to do it this way then deal with old steering componants...

TOYOTA 1

the easy way for me has been, to drop the diff while leaving axles attached, and pop off that arm. never had trouble getting the steering off.

though that is just in my experience, either way works

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i had to drop the relay rod and steering dampener because i needed to drop the front of the pan down more to clear some things - the back of the pickup tube was catching on the inside of the pan and the back of the pan(outside) was catching on the tranny. i didn't drop the oil pickup tube, but it probably would have come out if i had. i'm just glad that the last time i had my diff out, i ground smooth my 12 CV studs - i'm also glad i only used blue loctite on them, too!

92 TOY

Does anyone have, or know of, a good write-up on how to remove the oil pan.....FSM, Haynes and Chilton are each confusing.

From what I'm reading in the above postings, it looks like several have done this proceedure. It's a chore I need to do now in my rebuild, so any really good step-by-step guidance would be appreciated.

I'm going to post a similar request on my thread.............any and all help is much appreciated.

Searching YOTATECH is not my strong-suit.......I've googled it without any real success too.

Jay351

Either way you gotta drop the diff down, leave the axles bolted up, and you might be able to leave the d-shaft bolted up.

Once you have rotated it down and onto the ground, you can either pull the pan down and remove the oil pickup so you can remove the whole thing.

Or, remove some steering componants then you can remove the pan without pulling the oil pickup.

TOYOTA 1

^ exactly... no need for a wright up

92 TOY

Actually opposite.

That IS why i am asking for a write-up.

The FSM and the other manuals as well as some of the replies assume that I have ether done this before or am a mechanic.

So, if anyone knows of a thread,point it out to me. As I said, I have posted the same question on my thread too.....it's just that THIS thread was pertinent to the question.