Forrun4fun

If it had not been for that dang allen bolt beside the thermostat housing, I could have successfully removed the whole intake as a unit without separating them, but when it stripped, I had no choice but to split them to get more tools into that tight space.

On a side note, my truck has no AC, so I was able to get my arm to the underside of the intake pretty easliy, but I can imagine that with all the AC compressor stuff in that spot, it would be much more difficult.

Still looking for some input from someone about those head bolts coming out covered in oil. I know they are not supposed to be that way, I was just wondering if that was an indication of a problem somewhere.

Badger62811

Most of my head bolts were coated in oil. It made it real hard to get them out once they were loose. I assume this is normal. My HG failed between exhaust and coolant ports so my oil was fine.

boxer.fan

Yup took mine out yesterday and they were covered in oil as well. Pulling them out was hard, I heard I suction when pulling them out.

Forrun4fun

Update time! Got everything installed and buttoned up nice and tight. Dang thing started on the first key turn. It runs strong, VERY strong. I suppose after 25 years, going through the head and removing the the garbage on the valves and cylinder tops, as well as a tight new chain and fresh gaskets really makes a big difference. Oil pressure is about 10% higher than before, and there is a noticeable increase in power.

There is a moderate valve tick that is annoying me, but I guess I should have expected that with the head being completely disassembled and reassembled at the machine shop. Can someone post a reply with the correct adjustment procedure? I know it should be done with the engine up to temp, but I can't seem to remember the steps to take. (like start with intakes on 1 and 3, and exhaust on 2 and 4, and so on...)

For anyone following this thread, here is a list of everything I did/replaced :

1. New radiator hoses all around
2. New belts
3. New head gasket and head bolts
4. Head processed at machine shop (valves lapped and surfaces prepped)
5. New timing chain, sprockets, tensioner, and metal backed guides
6. New timing cover
7. Fuel injector seals only (did not rebuild injectors)
8. All new gaskets for everything removed and replaced (intake, exhaust, valve cover, etc)
9. Distributor o-ring
10. New coolant temp sensor that I broke in the process (lol)

I must say, that although there were a couple of moments where frustration mounted, overall the job was easier than I expected. It took more time that I expected, but then again, I could only devote the spare time I had after work each day. I would say all together, it took about 15 hours, but a lot of that was me intensely thinking, worrying, and rechecking things I had done ( I was paranoid I would screw something up ). Not to mention there were several trips to the auto-parts store and dealership to get things I had not thought about, exchanging things they sold me that were WRONG, and a couple of specialty tools.

FYI, in regards to the 'hidden' intake bolt (allen). No manufacturer, automotive supplier, or nut and bolt specialty shop carried an exact replacement - this is their method of forcing dealership business. The allen part I did not care about, but the 95mm length does not exist. Everyone had 90mm and 100mm. So, a 100mm hex head and 5mm worth of washers is what went back on.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I will need to look up the valve setting sequence later tonite if I get the time. Disassembly is quick. I can have one disassembled in one or two hours. Reassembly is time consuming. I figure about 8 hours when reassembly. It is just a slow process.

While you have it running, I take a mechanics stetoscope and listen above each lifter thru the valve cover to see which one is the noisest and make sure I give them the extra attention. Not saying to skip over the other ones, do them all but that can help cut down on some of the lifter noise.

Forrun4fun

As with all repair jobs, there are going to be some kinks (both major and minor) to work out. This case is no exception.

After adjusting the tappets 3 times now, I have significantly reduced the noise, but its not gone altogether. They all check in spec of .008 intake and .011 exhaust. I suppose if I want to eliminate the noise comepletely, I will have to take a thousandth off each measurement, and readjust for a fourth time.

Also, while negotiaing a steep grade on the second day, a VERY loud noise began appearing, sort of a metal on metal, like a machine gun. I was initially scared ˟˟˟˟˟less, as it sounded like the fan was eating the radiator. I think my overconfidence played a part in this, as once it started up and ran strong, I stopped checking things (other than the valve adjustment). Turns out what I was hearing was major detonation, as when I put the light on it, the timing was set at about 25 degrees at full advance (way beyond correct, I know). I backed it down to about 15 degrees (at full advance), and was somewhat disappointed at the loss of what I had considered to be an abundance of extra horsepower.

The ping did not disappear, and I was stumped. I was dreading the thought of having to take the whole thing apart again, and while standing in front of the truck with the hood up and my arms resting on the front of the engine/radiator, it happened......

The air intake tube from the MAF to the TB slid right off its coupling. In my haste I had negelted to tighten down the clamp on the MAF side of the tube coupling, and there was a good 1/8 inch gap all the way around the boot. No engine could run right with a massive vacuum leak like this one. I tightened down the boot and now the engine runs as it should. There is still a small ping under load on grades, but even my new car does that, so I consider it normal.