Junkers88

When I go on an extended trip like a long run down the higway the idle set screw on my 22re will screw back into the housing and kill the idle. Can I put something on there to stop it from happening? Any suggestions?

abecedarian

replace the o-ring on it.

Junkers88

Thanks Abe, I actually just found the thread from outlawmike where you gave him the same advice. Next time I'll search harder.

abecedarian

it's all good.

DupermanDave

I thought I was having deja vu again. Darn glitches in the matrix.

OutlawMike

Funny, glitches travel in packs.

Mine is fixed. I pulled out my scuba diving save-a-dive kit and pulled my pack of spare O-rings. Found one that worked perfect. The O-ring on the idle adjustment screw was hard as a rock and compressed. The new one puts enough drag on the screw that it should not back out again.

Just a note, when doing mine, I screwed it all the way in, counting the turns, then took it out, replaced the O-ring, screwed it all the way back in, and then backed it off the same number of turns that it took to screw it in.

Thanks Abe,

Mike

abecedarian

to all.

to DupermanDave too... in case deja vu kept you from getting it again.

@OutlawMike- counting the turns is a good tip to pass on, and referencing bottoming the screw out gives an absolute / extreme reference point for where to set the screw when finished with repairs. Only thing I might add to that is that if the o-ring is already deteriorated to the point that the screw turns easily, to the point it even moves on its own, that o-ring is also a likely 'vacuum leak' allowing unmetered air in and consequently raising the idle speed. So even after counting turns and returning the screw to that position with a new o-ring, further adjustments may be necessary to get the idle back to spec.

DupermanDave

can you smear the screw with red RTV and screw it back in? Or is that not recommended?

Ever since using RTV to make gaskets, I'm finding all sorts of uses for it that probably aren't recommended, lol.

abecedarian

If the sealant is a non-acetic cure type then I suppose you could, but an o-ring costs pennies and a tube of sealant costs dollars.
Acetic cure sealants release acetic acid as they cure and this can contaminate sensors resulting in their failure. So if it says "sensor safe" or similar I suppose you could use it.

But I'd rather see you wrap teflon tape on the threads than use any sort of sealant.

Matt16

My idle walks on me too. I pretend I'm really cool though and go fiddle with the idle at gas stations. I do really check the idle and oil level at each fill up. Jam that gas cap under the pump handle and you've got a couple minutes to do a quick check up instead of checkin out your reflection in the back window of your truck while filling the tank.

abecedarian

Lucky you. Gas pumps don't like my 4Runner and even on low-flow they tend to kick off after a gallon or so. I've had to spend 20 minutes to put 10 gallons in my tank more than a few times.

OutlawMike

Another good point Abe. I have not driven it yet with the new O-ring. I will drive it tomorrow and let you know if I needed to adjust the idle.

Thank again,

Mike

Matt16

In your fuel hose, there's a screen that prevents syphoning. It can collect crud sometimes and back up enough that is kicks the pump off but not enough to overflow. MIght help to replace that hose (and with it the screen).

abecedarian

I know what you're talking about but I can shove a 1/2 ID hose down to the tank so I know there's no screen in there.
Pumps just don't like my truck.

isaac338

Just pull the pump gun out of your fuel neck an inch or two. That'll relieve the pressure and prevent the pump from shutting off.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

i had the same issue last year on my truck. fixed it by putting a couple wraps of teflon plumbers tape around the threads to snug it up a tad.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

are you supposed to jump the TE1 and E1 terminals when your setting the idle or do you just set the screw and its done?

OutlawMike

You need to jump the terminals. Check the timing while you are doing it, as if the timing is off, it will affect idle RPM.

I just checked mine tonight. My idle was about 150 RPM low after putting the new O-Ring in. As Abe pointed out, it was a controlled vacuum leak.

Good to go, back at specs, idles great.

abecedarian

Whether you need to jump the terminals or not is up in the air. Idle speed affects timing and vice versa. Timing is supposed to be set at the proper idle speed. So it sort of makes sense to jumper the terminals, set idle then adjust timing, then re-adjust idle since adjusting timing will change the idle, etc. until timing is correct at idle speed.
reminds me of shampoo: shampoo, rinse, repeat. When do you stop?