JakeMcGuire

I have the 22re in my 92 with the stock gears in it. Has 32x11.5s on it now, and I've been thinking of upgrading the gearing. Would 4.88s be my best choice? I've got plenty of life left on the 32s, and probably not ever go bigger than 33s. Now I try to do as much work to myself as possible, but cracking into it to replace parts seems a little out of my comfort zone, but how difficult is replacing the whole third member? Probably just the rear for now and the front later on if I can do that? Sorry if this has been asked before, but I couldnt find anything. If so just a link would be nice.
Thanks,
Jake

ThatGuy1295

Come on!

Easy.

Depends on what you use it for. But for freeway commuting no unless your going to run 33's or bigger. But for trial use you can never be to low

JakeMcGuire

I don't think the mobile app is bringing up everything when I'm searching, i'll have to start using the internet.
As far as what it will be used for, taking me to work, which accounts for a whole 12 miles a week. It'll occasionally see the interstate, but not much at all. I'm just trying to make it into something I can have a little fun with on the weekends, but still drive it the few miles to and from work, or other trips i need it for.
Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

When you pull the axles (rear end) don't be lazy and think it is easier to not undo the rear brake lines and rest the axle on the rear bearing seal...it will leak later..yes I learned...
4 bolts at the rear d/s, undo brake line, undo e brake ckip, 4 nuts on each axle at the backing plate, pull axles, 10 nuts on third.
Don't forget to drain the oil, chock you front wheels, use jack stands.

front axle is a little more of a PITA.

4.88 you might get lucky and find a good used factory front housing..

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

It is easy, just heed the warnings given above. And, the front is easier than the rear IMO. (if you pop the CV studs out backwards)

Stock 4.88s can be had for about $200 each already put together, ready to drop in. Or, go to the junkyard and look for G144 rear axle code (in the door jam).

JakeMcGuire

Is there any place online that sells used ones? Or am I just gonna have to religiously check craigslist and the classifieds on this one? The best junkyard around is in Nashville, and they never seem to have more than 2 pickups/4runners at a time, and are usually completely gutted.

Or better yet, anybody have the rear for sale, or possibly both?

JakeMcGuire

Or would this be one of those things id be better off buying new?

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Used could be a crap shoot. You will pay more new but at least you should know who did the set up.
there is a used parts sources thread in the newbie tech folder.
It has a ton of links. You might get lucky and find a set from someone like Dave's off road or Jims.. shipping will be expensive..

ThatGuy1295

In that case id say its fine to go 4.88. But your still in the ball park of using 4.56 gears. Who knows,,, you might want to take a long trip somewhere, some day. Lot of people might disagree with me, but there is such a thing as gearing lower then needed. And it has its draw backs. I ran 33's and 4.88's on my 3vz truck with a flow master and it was awsome in every way but freeway. Always felt and sounded like I needed 6th gear. And its harder to control speed when your cruising above 3K while your pushing small 33's, then it would be to push 35's with 4.88's while 3K rpms @ 70mph
Which vehicle is going to be to throttle sensitive? One with NO engine load at high rpms, or the one WITH engine load at high rpms. But probly not as big of a deal with a 4cyl as a v6.

abecedarian

Whatever gear ratio you choose, do both front and back at the same time. Even off-road, mismatched ratios will play hell with drive ability, CV joints and the transfer case.

JakeMcGuire

Will do, working so much lately I won't have time to worry about it for a few weeks anyway, also gives me a little time to put some more back.

I appreciate all the help yall, new to all this mess and everything helps.

JakeMcGuire

Their isn't a lot of people that have any idea what type of gears are in their vehicles their parting out, so as opposed to telling every single one to check the door jam, only to find more 4.10s, which models came from the factory with 4.88s? The general consenus around here is buy 4x4, throw 6" body lift and bald 33's, then sink it in mud. Other than that nobody seems to know jack about their truck.

Yamiryder

run 33x10.50's and 4.88's. i have 33x10.50's with 4.10 and i need 4.88's. As someone said above, 4.56's would probably be perfect for 32x11.50's, but if you're going to regear, i'd make it worth the effort, put 4.88's in, and run 33's. even 12.50's if you want a wide tire.

JakeMcGuire

I picked a practically brand new set of the 32x11.5s up for $400 bucks is why i ended up with them. I would love the 33x10.5s but they seem to be a bitch to find. What type of lift would i need to clear 33x10.5/12.5? Near future will be ball joint spacers, and zuk mod, but i see that as only temporary.
While its brought up, and to avoid a new thread, which coils should i be looking at for the zuk mod, preferably to avoid cutting if possible? And who makes the best spacers?

OR

Is this all irrelevant? Should I just be looking for a good lift kit? While I don't have the luxury of saying money ain't an issue, I'd rather save up and wait, than skim and regret.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

While a ton of people have done the Zuk mod with good results I am of the mind that the Zuk mod is kind of a band aid.
do it once and do it right...replace your rear springs..

JakeMcGuire

Definitely makes sense. I don't need or want crazy amounts of lift, maybe 2-3", any idea as to a good source to get something along those lines? Any brands to stay away from?

JakeMcGuire

From what i can tell, I'm sagging pretty low anyway, so to rephrase; what should i be looking at to get me 2-3" over stock?

Yamiryder

2" rear lift springs would be the best. I have a 2" rear block, but i don't recommend as it interferes with the e-brake. If not wanting to spend the money for the springs, you can also get a 2" longer shackle, which is what i'm going to do soon. Can also do an add a leaf, but by far the best option is new spring. And on 33x10.50's, basically have BFGoodrich, Toyo, and Interco to choose from...kinda lengthy post sorry