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This + That+ These = Bad as* 22re I hope

Old 06-22-2009, 12:11 PM
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This + That+ These = Bad as* 22re I hope

Engnbldr rebulid kit .20 over with new head bolts and water pump



+

L.C.Engineering Pro Street Head And Cam




+ These

New Timing Cover


Brand New Crank And Bearings



Rebuilt Injectors Via Witch Hunter Performance


Going to the machine shop in the next day or two and have them install the new Freeze Plugs and Rod Bearings then bringing it home to start the rebuild starting with painting the block and valve cover and everything else that looks like it could use some paint.

Thinking block = Silver better to see oil leaks if they happen
Valve Cover = Red like the L.C. red head set up
Throttle body = Silver with Red lettering
Manifold = Silver
Header = Black?

Any Thoughts about different paint colors? I am open to suggestions
Old 06-22-2009, 12:25 PM
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whoa, these pictures look quite similar to some I've taken

lol

that's awesome stuff man!

I think our motor's will be quite similar in the end Mines just .30 over with the engnbldr Street RV Head and the 261 cam

can't wait to see some in-progress pics

Old 06-22-2009, 12:25 PM
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What is that..... 10 extra HP for 2000 bucks?
Old 06-22-2009, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gennro
What is that..... 10 extra HP for 2000 bucks?
something like that

nah man, it's more about the torque that opens up, with the OS valves and cam in the head

and he got a STEAL on that head; you'r probably looking at $700 out of HIS pocket there
Old 06-22-2009, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
something like that

nah man, it's more about the torque that opens up, with the OS valves and cam in the head

and he got a STEAL on that head; you'r probably looking at $700 out of HIS pocket there
Yeah because those heads are well over 1k easily. Not really worth it for the gain consider you could do a 3.4 swap for a grand more.

All in all though should breathe a little more into that 22re. I know when i had mine i was looking for anything to make more power out of it. Was a waste of money though since there are better and just as reliable options out there.
Old 06-22-2009, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
something like that

nah man, it's more about the torque that opens up, with the OS valves and cam in the head

and he got a STEAL on that head; you'r probably looking at $700 out of HIS pocket there
No need to be hate'in
The price so far all prices with shipping figured in
Head and cam $320
Rebuild kit $229
Timing cover $19.99
Crank set $175
Injectors rebuild $82
Block re done $135
total $961
projected h.p. 140-145
200k + miles worth every penny

Last edited by olharleyman; 06-22-2009 at 12:46 PM.
Old 06-22-2009, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by gennro
Yeah because those heads are well over 1k easily. Not really worth it for the gain consider you could do a 3.4 swap for a grand more.

All in all though should breathe a little more into that 22re. I know when i had mine i was looking for anything to make more power out of it. Was a waste of money though since there are better and just as reliable options out there.
But there is something to be said about the simplicity of the 4 banger. If I am swamped in the mud or flipped upside-down I would rather be working on a 2.4l. I think if it were me I would try and get my hands on a 22re-t and see what I can do with it.

Good luck though. I love these motors.
Old 06-22-2009, 01:36 PM
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lawl at the 22re haters I got 296k out of the orignial motor, head gasket and all

there's just something about a nice 22re that I like... plus I'm just not a fan of a V6 sound for whatever reason for me, it's either gotta be a deep 4cyl growl, or a loud obnoxious V8


don't be hate'n on the man; just be glad he's rebuilding a Toy and not a Heep
Old 06-22-2009, 03:00 PM
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I used engnbldr and couldn't be happier. Their prices were fantastic, great service and the truck runs awesome. I have to give alot of credit to the machine shop since this was my first complete overhaul.
Old 06-22-2009, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Flash319
But there is something to be said about the simplicity of the 4 banger. If I am swamped in the mud or flipped upside-down I would rather be working on a 2.4l. I think if it were me I would try and get my hands on a 22re-t and see what I can do with it.

Good luck though. I love these motors.
I have a 1uz in my truck. I just suggest the 5vz because of how easy it is to swap in compared to most other swaps. The 1UZ wasn't hard for me, but i'm not your average mechanic. The 22re is a great motor for its time but has its drawbacks. The only thing it does have is reliability.


oharleyman, You got one hell of a deal on that head. I was thinking about going that route when i rebuilt my 22re. Had KB pistons and everything. For some reason though the KB pistons just didn't want to stay in one piece.

I think a good timing advance and adjust the AFM should yeild some decent power.
Old 06-22-2009, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gennro
I have a 1uz in my truck. I just suggest the 5vz because of how easy it is to swap in compared to most other swaps. The 1UZ wasn't hard for me, but i'm not your average mechanic. The 22re is a great motor for its time but has its drawbacks. The only thing it does have is reliability.


oharleyman, You got one hell of a deal on that head. I was thinking about going that route when i rebuilt my 22re. Had KB pistons and everything. For some reason though the KB pistons just didn't want to stay in one piece.

I think a good timing advance and adjust the AFM should yeild some decent power.
Yea I did get a deal and a half on the head/cam set up and I was going to go with the Keith Black piston's(use them on lots of Harley rebuilds) but the price was out of control now if it was not going to be a daily driver weekend toy I would have but I figured after talking with TED at engnbuldr this setup would work very well(140-145 h.p.) for the all around set up it is meant to be.

As for the 3.4 swap I am going with the super charged set up in my 90 4runner so I have some thing to tow this one up top Rausch Creek and play around that way I still have a dd I can count on to get me back and forth to work.

Last edited by olharleyman; 06-22-2009 at 04:57 PM.
Old 06-22-2009, 05:40 PM
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You will love that setup, but don't expect it to be a monster. I gained more power on the highway, a little better mileage, and some low-end. Pretty much the same motor as mine, are you staying with stock compression?

Look into degreeing your cam, mine is 2 degrees advanced & it pulls noticeably harder above 1500 rpm than when it was set at tdc. Good call on redoing your fuel injectors, I did mine through LCE. Are you going to run a header??

Last edited by AZ89LONGBED; 06-22-2009 at 05:45 PM.
Old 06-22-2009, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by AZ89LONGBED
You will love that setup, but don't expect it to be a monster. I gained more power on the highway, a little better mileage, and some low-end. Pretty much the same motor as mine, are you staying with stock compression?

Look into degreeing your cam, mine is 2 degrees advanced & it pulls noticeably harder above 1500 rpm than when it was set at tdc. Good call on redoing your fuel injectors, I did mine through LCE. Are you going to run a header??
The piston's are 9.5.1 from engnbldr so yea they will be pretty much stock but .20 over
Yes I will be running a header with this set up also wondering about a cam degreeing site or some place that will explain and help set cam degree if you know of one.

Is the cam degree set with that piece that L.C. sell's for a $110 bucks? This one here?
http://www.lceperformance.com/20R-22...-p/1022006.htm
Old 06-22-2009, 10:58 PM
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Generally, advancing your valve timing creates more low-end power, while retarding the timing gives you more higher-end power. Some cams come ground with either advanced or retarded valve timing when installed TDC. You can degree your cam with a 10 dollar degree wheel from napa, or if you will be opening it up to mess with the timing repeatedly you may be better off with a cam sprocket that has degrees marks, such as LCE's.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/adva...nce+retard+cam

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cam_degreeing/

good luck with the new motor!!
Old 06-23-2009, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by AZ89LONGBED
Generally, advancing your valve timing creates more low-end power, while retarding the timing gives you more higher-end power. Some cams come ground with either advanced or retarded valve timing when installed TDC. You can degree your cam with a 10 dollar degree wheel from napa, or if you will be opening it up to mess with the timing repeatedly you may be better off with a cam sprocket that has degrees marks, such as LCE's.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/adva...nce+retard+cam

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cam_degreeing/

good luck with the new motor!!
How would you degree a cam that is not adjustable like the 22re? Seems to me you need that adjustable gear to do this.
Old 06-23-2009, 10:02 AM
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You are right, you need the adjustable gear. I had my mechanic do this for me, and I had ordered the cam gear with my new motor but didn't realize (until now) that it was a necessary piece.
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