Jonnym

OK guys- this is a multipart problem.

The temp gauge in the cluster seems to not be reading correctly, I can start my truck and it will read in the center of normal, obviously wrong since the engine is dead-cold. So has anyone had this problem? Where do i start tracing, or should i just start looking for a cluster to replace it? Also the oil pressure reading creeps around, I just don't trust the gauges

Second issue is- I just did a E-Fan mod, Volvo fan and the variable speed controller (dccontrol), the fan works because i can kick the AC on and it will speed up to 50% as it should, but I have not heard it kick on while driving. I think it is a sensor wiring issue- but i really have no way of testing this. How does the sensor tell the controller what temp the radiator fins are?? Voltage?

Can there be a mismatch between thermostat temp and the fan turn-on temp?

'87 PU xtracab 22re 125kmi

-Thanks Jon

fourwd1

OK, the temp gauge jumps to mid point as soon as you turn the key?
Could be sender or gauge. Disconnect wire at sending unit, if it still jumps it's probably the gauge. If it doesn't it points to the sender.

Oil pressure varies w/rpms, so it will creep around.

Jonnym

Temp gauge-- yep, jump straight to the mid point when the key is switched... Thanks for the tip about unplugging the sender unit- i'll try that one

So the other problem of overheating is starting to be traced to the Volvo fan the I got from ebay. Temp probe works well, controller works, but fan doesn't always work. :/

Does anyone have a Bosch fan that came from the Volvo recall that works well with variable speed? I hope the fan isn't high/low only shouldn't be like that right, is there a way to rebuild the motor- anyone have any luck with that??

Thanks

Jonnym

OK- as a follow up, The overheating / fan problem has been tracked down to a mis-speced fuse in the wrong fuse holder. My kit I got was missing a fusible link, so I used a spare I had with a 25 amp fuse, this proved to be too low, and blew the fuse, tried it again with a 30 amp fuse, still blew. I have the correct fusilbe link on the way from dccontrols - great service from them...

I tested the temp sensor resistance and it was working correctly in the temp vs. ohm. They have the curve posted on their site.

I did notice that the fan will spin at 10% fine, I was worried that the fan would not spin correctly because it was not specifically a variable speed fan- but it worked out that it spins and sounds fine at 10% and 50% - when it wants to jump from 10% to 100% the current draw exceed the 30a fuse. Makes sense since the controller is 35a with a peak max of 50a

I still am having the same problem with the temp gauge. But it is now intermittent. yah! A good swift whack will set it straight half of teh time... anyone?

slow5poh

my temp gage is always in the middle, or it will sit on the bottom, or bounce around. And if it's siting on the bottom you can give the cluster a good whack and it jumps to normal. So i'm thinkin' it's my cluster. Oil pressure gauge dosen't work either, just sits in middle. Not sure if i should check senders or new cluster, or just put some aftermarket gages in it. Sorry didnt mean to hijack your thread, but yeah a good whack sets em straight

sdstud212001

Okay I know I'm bring this thread back from the dead, but only because I have a few of the same problems and did not want to start a new thread I just wanted to build on this one as it seems there was no real solution other than whacking the gauge.

Okay so here are my gauge troubles (w/ the 87 22re non-turbo w/ sr5 cluster)
1. When I start the 4runner the oil pressure gauge goes up a little then just sits at the bottom all of the time. I changed the sending unit to match the gauge before I even installed it. Is this normal????

2.When I start the 4runner the temp goes to 1/2 way from the get go, when I had the old DLX gauge it always started on the bottom, but still moved up a bit durring driving. Is there a way to fix this? The heater works but I'm not sure if the thermostat has ever been changed. Could this be the problem? I didn't think so as it worked fine before. It just worries me because now I get close to the top of the gauge (just below the red).

Please help

sdstud212001

bump for some help. anyone?

Jonnym

sorry i found nothing to fix the funky problem, whacking the dash always brings the temp gauge back to life. the oil pressure gauge is more worrisome to me- it goes all over the place, from middle to low.

sdstud212001

I'm not a fan of beating on the dash, but yeah the oil guage worries me too as mine sit at the bottom all the time.

rdharper

If whacking the dash temporarily fixes it, I'd suspect a bad ground behind the dash. If so, I don't know anyway to find it other than to get back there and wiggles wires, gently, while observing the temp gauge. Might be able to get up in there from underneath if you are a gymnist and have very small fingers.

Not much help, but I'd bet on wires close to the gauge, as whacking the dash doesn't translate to much force close to the gauge.

If you don't have the time, just asking the dealership to replace the gauge will also work, as in the process they will find the problem. And if not, you can take it back. Although the honest way would be to describe the problem, and let them find that problem in the process of replacing the gauge. If short of time, I'd do the later.

rdharper

If whacking the dash temporarily fixes it, I'd suspect a bad ground behind the dash. If so, I don't know anyway to find it other than to get back there and wiggles wires, gently, while observing the temp gauge. Might be able to get up in there from underneath if you are a gymnist and have very small fingers.

Not much help, but I'd bet on wires close to the gauge, as whacking the dash doesn't translate to much force close to the gauge.

If you don't have the time, just asking the dealership to replace the gauge will also work, as in the process they will find the problem. And if not, you can take it back. Although the honest way would be to describe the problem, and let them find that problem in the process of replacing the gauge. If short of time, I'd do the later. Could also be the gauge itself, anyway.