nisif

Hello all,

As the title states...I recently swapped a 22re engine into a truck I bought with a "Running" blown 22re (engine had rod knock). 1989 Pickup 4WD.
I used the original wiring harness from the truck and the engine and all sensors are identical.

I have good compression, I have good spark, but I'm not getting fuel. Again keep in the mind the prior engine had fuel and ran.

I checked fuel at the filter by cracking the banjo bolt loose. I have pressure. So I checked if I was getting voltage to the injectors. No Good. However I am getting 8-9 volts to the cold start injector but it won't allow the engine to run. Also the Check Engine Light will come on while cranking. I believe this is normal and indicates the ECU/ECM is getting power.

I checked the EFI fuse. Its good. I ran a jumper from the grounds that mount to the back of the intake manifold. Still no power to the injectors. I probed both of the 2 leads of the main injector clips for continuity and I was getting good grounds to both leads. Kinda of odd, I thought only one lead should indicate a good ground not both.

Just wondering if you guys could shed some light. Thanks, Looking forward to getting it on some trails... It's my first Toyota Truck

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Is the AFM and intake piping hooked up completely?

Gevo

I don't have the 22re wiring diagram, but if it's like the 3vze, you will have the black-red wire that is hot (positive) when the key is turned to ON. THe other white or white-red wire is connected to the ECU. SO, turn key ON and make sur eyou are testing correct wire for positive (test light/multimeter neg lead to known good ground source and positive lead to black/red wire at injector, should see 11+ volts.)

For other wire (white or white-red) check continuity to ECU harness connector. Check resistance make sure it's under 1 ohm. Also, for kicks, check continuity form white to ground, shouldn't have any continuity.

If all of the wiring is good, and the POSITIVE wire at the injector is hot with key turned to ON, then check your AFM and the AFM wiring. Although, I think if the AFM isn't working probably you wouldn't be getting spark either.

nisif

Yes both are connected

nisif

Ok, did some testing.

The white/red wire is good. I checked continuity from the injector clip to the ecu clip pinout and I have continuity. It is also providing a ground like it should.

The black/red wire at the injector clip only gets 12 volts when the ignition key is in the ACC position. When I flip the key to the ON position (prior to starting) I don't get any voltage. Also while cranking the starter I don't get any voltage. Odd

I checked the v6 wiring schematic and I found the black/red wire connects to the ignition coil and the ignition switch. I kind of doubt there is a problem at the igntion switch because it worked fine with the old engine and nothing was disconnected or touched in that area. So I checked the connection at the coil. There is a 5 pin plug leading to the coil and none of the wires are black/red which I'm searching for. Not sure where to check next.

Here's a link to the wiring schematic for reference:

http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/z...52800610f8.gif

nisif

Just wanted to update this thread...

I found that the injector plug I was testing had a crack in the wire. I replaced the plug/faulty wire and the engine still didn't start.

I eventually found that the distributor was 180 degrees out. After setting the engine to TDC and aligning the distributor it started right up.

Thanks for all the replies