The SwampThing2 - ITS ALIVE! Almost...
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The SwampThing2 - ITS ALIVE! Almost...
Ok, ok. We're about 95% done. Just need to get an idler arm and pulley for the powersteering to work, rebuild the knuckle on the passenger side, weld on front shock hoops, put together front drive shaft, and weld the rear shock tabs and install shocks all the way around.
Got my meats on to see how it'll sit with all the weight off the rack. All I can say is, I NEED BIGGER TIRES (35x12.50x15)! Anyhoo, lots of pictures below (click to enlarge).
Got my meats on to see how it'll sit with all the weight off the rack. All I can say is, I NEED BIGGER TIRES (35x12.50x15)! Anyhoo, lots of pictures below (click to enlarge).
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That was TrailGear's 5" front (with the heavy duty front leaf springs) and 5" rear classic lift kit, 12" extended front driveshaft, 14" front shock hoops, ifs style powersteering gear box, powersteering pump kit (have to find your own idler bracket and pulley if your truck wasn't powersteering equipped from the factory I suppose. Thats the issue I'm having now) 5.29 gears, and 35x12.50x15 wrangler m/ts. I'll be dropping lunchbox lockers in soon, taking off the bed, build a massive deer/tree slaying front bumper, 4.7 low gears for the tcase, and running some 39.5x16.5x15 boggers.
Last edited by SwampThing; 05-17-2008 at 04:27 PM.
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Not a dog gone thing. Didn't have to have it lengthened or anything. Was very surprised. Then again you do weld the rear hangers 6" forward, and the shackle mounts 2" back, so overall you're moving the rear axle forward a couple of inches...
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My only "problem" (though others would say its a good thing) is that the front sits higher than the rear, what with those HD front springs lol.
Though I suppose you wont be able to notice once the bed comes off...
Though I suppose you wont be able to notice once the bed comes off...
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But this is definitely not a bolt on kit. If it's your first rodeo, you might be a little intimidated. There aint a piece of this kit that you wont have to either cut weld or modify lol. Pretty much brand new suspension from the frame down.
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no, i think your mistaking, the springs are longer thats why you had to move things. you wheel base is still the same! when i sas'd my 91 and lifted the rear i had to relocate the hangers also, but the axel ends up in the same spot!
Last edited by TOYOTA 1; 05-17-2008 at 04:34 PM.
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I know the springs are longer, but I think you can get away w/o any rear driveshaft work because as you move the axle down, the distance from the the tcase increases, so they move the front axle forward, instead of moving the hangers forward 4" and the shackle mounts back 4" to keep the axle in the same location, they have you move it 6" and 2" respectively.
Dunno. May be mistaken though.
Dunno. May be mistaken though.
Last edited by SwampThing; 05-17-2008 at 04:48 PM.
#11
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you can i didnt have to do any thing with my rear shaft. i went with allpro 5" in the rear. it did pull my slip yoke out a lil further. but im pretty shure the axel stays in the same spot. at least mine did, my tires are centered in the wheel well. just like they were stock!
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it is the first rodeo as you put it im certified as a mig welder so that part doesnt spook me its the alignment and the drive shaft work but if that doesnt exist than it looks like i should be alright..
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Running a pretty bead is all fine and dandy on a table top, but if you haven't had any fitter experience, it can be a tit bit more stressful than worrying about porosity and slag inclusions
As far as alignment goes, its nothing that a square and a measuring tape won't get right to get you to a laser equipped alignment shop.
And for the front drive shaft, honestly, it aint gotta be balanced because it isn't constant/live/real-time 4x4. Front drive shaft only spins when you want it to. I was just going to make my own square tubing front driveshaft, but I ended up getting that 12" long spline driveshaft from wabfab for a good price.
As far as alignment goes, its nothing that a square and a measuring tape won't get right to get you to a laser equipped alignment shop.
And for the front drive shaft, honestly, it aint gotta be balanced because it isn't constant/live/real-time 4x4. Front drive shaft only spins when you want it to. I was just going to make my own square tubing front driveshaft, but I ended up getting that 12" long spline driveshaft from wabfab for a good price.
Last edited by SwampThing; 05-17-2008 at 05:13 PM.
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Lol ass. Just HAD to chime in right then didn't ya? Fine, yall are right...
Oh hey, I was looking at that spot you were telling me about, and yep I see exactly where that idler is supposed to go. Was puttering around your and trailgear's site but couldn't find the idler arm and pulley. Is toyota the only place I can get it, and about how much is that gonna run?
Oh hey, I was looking at that spot you were telling me about, and yep I see exactly where that idler is supposed to go. Was puttering around your and trailgear's site but couldn't find the idler arm and pulley. Is toyota the only place I can get it, and about how much is that gonna run?
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Well I was really looking forward to finishing up the damn truck, but I guess the lightweights are feeling a little delicate this morning! Hah, between the beer kegs beer pong and beer bongs I can't really blame em, I just want to work on my dog gone truck lol...