Toreador

yeah, that.

So I bled it with a buddy, and nothing. Then I did the gravity bleed, and nothing.

Also, do I have to bleed the system after I adjust the clutch free play (by way of master cylinder adjustment rod)? Or can I adjust the pedal after bleeding and not worry about bleeding it after?

jerry507

Ok, this is what I am understanding:

1. You've bled the clutch system.

2. With the bleeder valve OPEN you can push the pedal "to the floor" or at least a substantial distance.

3. With the bleeder valve CLOSED, you can hardly push the pedal in very far. Certainly not far enough to hit the start switch.

With the bleeder valve CLOSED, engine off, you under the truck looking at the slave cylinder and your buddy depressing the clutch pedal as far as it can go, do you see the slave cylinder extending at all? It's easiest to be watching before he starts the stroke to tell if there is relative movement.

Toreador

Yes, all of that is correct.

As for the slave cylinder, it does not extend very much. It actually seems like it is not extending as much as it should.

I think I have a bent clutch fork.

jerry507

When the system is fully relaxed, clutch pedal not depressed and cylinder all the way retracted, the fork should roughly be pointing straight out of the clutch housing, parallel to the front of the vehicle. There should be about an inch, maybe 1.5, between the metal part of the release cylinder and the fork. That should extend to say, 3 inches?, when the clutch cylinder is fully extended. It's a very noticeable increase!

Toreador

Everything sucks

jerry507

I get the feeling this is a problem that would be really obvious if you could look at two trucks side by side. Something is mechanically out of place on your truck OR your clutch system isn't bled enough.

drew303

Your hydraulics are fine. Your problem is with the pedal. Its been broken once and "fixed"... my my best guess is its not fixed.

art

I had a similar problem and it was the bracket. Look at the bracket when the pedal is pushed. It should not move at all. Maybe it was welded wrong.

Toreador

It may be the pedal. But wouldn't the problem have started as soon as the 'repaired' braket went in? Or the problem just got worse over time? Either way, I'm going to check that before I drop the transmission and my truck is out of commission for 2 months.

Toreador

Let me know what you see wrong in any of this video.
1st Clip: Pedal bracket flex-- will not reach ignition switch
2nd Clip: Why is it wet around that electrical connection?
and is there something abnormal about this wobbly clutch fork?
3rd Clip: Something is on backwards or missing, I feel

Thanks so much

jerry507

I don't see the video...

Toreador

Let me know what you see wrong in any of this video.
1st Clip: Pedal bracket flex-- will not reach ignition switch
2nd Clip: Why is it wet around that electrical connection?
and is there something abnormal about this wobbly clutch fork?
3rd Clip: Something is on backwards or missing, I feel

Thanks so much

http://youtu.be/lAZI3KwYLWw

Toreador

Woops

Toreador

So what do you guys think?

jerry507

I'm hanging out with my wife now, but I'll go down and double check on my truck tonight and reply. Initially though it looks reallllllllllllllllllllly strange to have that much fork play.

Toreador

Thanks man, I appreciate it.
Did you also notice the flex in the pedal bracket-- the way the ignition switch moves away from the pedal?
And let me know if you have ideas on that fluid leak.

Toreador

I'm a noob at this but I love my truck

Dalrus

I realize this is a very old thread, but what was your final diagnosis or outcome. Im having very similar symptoms with the same LUK clutch in an 89 runner. Maybe you can shine some light on my issue for me.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I doubt he ever came back if so not for quite a while.

So are you using fluid more then normal wear (very little)

Have you checked for a broken clutch pedal bracket ??

Clutch Fork starting to break or all ready broke??

Rubber hose old and starting to balloon under pressure??

How many miles on the clutch depending on use I have seen them fail at 20,000 miles or one day or go a 1/4 million miles only to be changed because the engine came out.

Dalrus

First off thanks for the response Wyoming9. Ive always enjoyed reading everyones input I'm new to this so hope I follow the proper procedures. I'll try to give a brief history of my problem. 89Runner-3.0L Replaced clutch solely because engagement was at the top of the pedal stroke (340,000km original clutch) Actually had about .020" of material before rivets remaining. LUK gold performance kit replacement. Resurfaced stepped flywheel .008 All went well no issues. Installed existing slave no issues prior. Hydraulic system was not oopened up. Now, clutch pedal must be fully depressed before disengagement, that is right to the floor boards. Can go into R and 1st but right at the end of pedal stroke. Checked slave stroke .500", bled system no change. replaced CMC and slave cylinder, bled and re-bled still .500 stroke ( I am assuming is sufficient). Eliminated all free play at pedal and gained about .060" in stroke. Depressed slave cylinder all the way into the bore, clamped then pressed on pedal, rock hard (should indicate no air) Inspected pedal bracket for deflection and appeared to be nil, Hydraulic hose section had no obvious bulging on application, however when you wrap your hand around it you can feel a slight pressure build ie. movement. No leaks. Removed tranny. Inspected all hard parts and all appeared to be 100% No obvious signs of cracks in fork, Transmission input shaft retainer was smooth no ridge for throw out bearing to catch. Not sure if the hydraulic system can handle the increased application pressure that the HD pressure plate has. I'm guessing that the system must build more pressure on the diaphram to disengage the clutch. I'm open to all opinions/ideas all will be appreciated. Also.....is this where I should be putting my Q's lol.