strykersd

When I bought my current 4runner I found a turbo 4runner that didn't run 350 miles away. I called the guy and he said he needed to get rid of it that day by 9PM since he would be out of town for numerous weeks. This was Friday at noon, I called around and found a buddy with an F-150, rented a tow dolly from U-haul and rushed up there. We hit a bunch of traffic and ended up getting up at 10PM, but we made it. We loaded the front tires up on the tow dolly and tried to get the driveshaft bolts off but couldn't. It was also freezing cold that night so I just said screw it, let's tow it as is. That was a huge mistake!

When I got 4runner back to my house and got the engine running reliably, the first time I put it in drive it hardly moved. I found a free transmission through Pirate4x4, swapped that in and it seemed worked fine! A few months ago when I started upping the boost in the 4runner, I noticed that it always shifted really slowly. I messed with all the settings, but in the end figured it was probably the torque converter and I should have changed that too.

Fast forward to a week ago, I'm driving home from work, was a bit bored and decided I wanted to play with the 4runner a bit. If you're not familiar with my setup, I run a rear elocker, 4:88 gears, manual hubs and 35" MTRs. So at a few lights I decided to lock up my rear end, throw it in four low, stand on the brakes and do standing burnouts and then take off. Lots of fun, until I noticed my truck started acting funny. Now it also started shaking at idle, a sign of a bad torque converter.

The next day I start calling around looking for a torque converter with no luck. I called every local auto parts store, Autozone, O'Reilly's and Napa but everyone had the part on backorder. That was the point I decided to throw in the towel on the automatic. As easy as it was to wheel an automatic, there were a ton of a cons to it. Let's see, there was...
-the A340h transmission/transfer case combo is a one piece unit, so if one goes back you have to rebuild the whole thing
-the automatic transmission and hydraulic transfer case robbed most of the extra power my 22rte made!
-it's nearly impossible to find parts for it
-Automatics can overheat
-there were just way too many more parts than the stick shifter version! More fluids and oil coolers!
-No one makes a good skid plate for the A340H transmission. Don't say Budbuilt because I have one and I swear I'm the only one who has ever bought one because it just doesn't work. It hit my drive-shaft, can't work with a IFS sway bar and the transfer case hung down so low that I needed to drill a hole in it so that it would even bolt up to my crossmember.


I've converted a few cars and trucks from automatic to manual before so I'm not really stressing about this not working. Like any automatic to manual swap, it all starts with the transmission! I picked up a w56 transmission and transfer case without a t-case shifter for $300 and the guy threw in the clutch lines, pedals and clutch slave cylinder! It's a start!



Now I'm just waiting on parts I've ordered to come in, seeing what parts my buddies have sitting around and I need to make a run down to the junkyard to buy a few small things! I'll keep updating this thread with information on the swap as I do it.

Total cost so far $300.

justin_4runner

when i did mine i ended up having to get a different rear driveshaft due to the stick trans is 2 inch shorter.

strykersd

Thanks for the heads up! That's one thing I've heard mixed reviews about! Maybe you can help me with a few things! Here is a list of a few of the other things I've been wondering about
-Are the flywheel bolts different than the automatic bolts? Everyone says they are, I was just going to pick some up from the junkyard and do a comparison in this thread. It's not something I want to go cheap on and have fail on me!
-Are the frame cross members in the same spot or will I have to cut and re-weld them?

That's all I can think about for now!

justin_4runner

i can say that u have to replace the bolts, the ones for the flywheel are longer by about 1/2 inch or so... i picked up some from the local auto parts store,just make sure they are grade 8, also u will need some flywheel to pressure plate bolts, the cross members are the same locations and the mounts are the same. when i did my swap i didnt even change the computer. also wired up the trans so when i used the stick to put it in 4wd it worked like normal.

strykersd

I called my parts guy at my local Toyota dealership and he quoted me $30 for the 22re flywheel bolts. He informed me that all 22re whether it was 2WD or 4WD and the year, all have the same flywheel bolts. They would be easy to pick up from a hardware store, but I don't feel like chancing it so I'll just get them from the junkyard.

Sure about the transmission/t-case mount? I've had a W56/gear driven transfer case before and the the mount looks nothing like my auto mount. Autozone's online catalog show that they're different too! Plus sites like trail-gear and 4x4innovations say that they're manual mounts won't work on the automatics.

strykersd

Day One! It doesn't really matter the order you do this in, I just chose to start with the pedals and the clutch master cylinder because those were readily avaliable to me at the time. I had the pedals and thanks to Autozone rewards, I had credit on my card so I was able to pick up a free clutch master cylinder. It normally retails for $18 with no core charger.

After doing some research I discovered that the auto and manual pedal setup were near identical so I started with using the auto pedal bracket as a template to drill the holes for my clutch master cylinder. Looking at the bracket, ideally you would drill a 1.5" hole for the plunger and two ~1/4" holes for the bolts. Since I only had a 1 3/8" drill bit, I went with that and it worked!

Here are the two pedal brackets, automatic on top and manual on the bottom.


Here's a close up on the bolts that the master cylinder bolt up to. When you drill the holes in the firewall, you want the threaded bolt to go through, but not that spacer.


Last but not least, the pedals and clutch master cylinder installed.

justin_4runner

well u do have a 86 and mine was a 91. so the frame stuff might be different. good to see u have already started the swap, it took me a weekend to do it. spent more time doing the pedals then anything.

Punchy

Just did this myself.

Get new flywheel bolts (Cheap and a major peace of mind).
dont forget Pilot bearing.
You can get the clutch hardline from any manual 86-95 PU or 4R if you want prefab.
Dont forget to remove the spacer for auto flywheel off the crank, Its not used with manual flywheel.

You are going to have so much fun with the wiring.

phildelfino

subscribed. good luck.

doing this soon myself but on an 88 v6.

weaselman

i just recently did this. I used the same drive shaft. ( havent hooked up front tho). same crossmember. same flywheel bolts, etc. you must add a pilot bearing tho.

the wiring is the easiest part.

i unhooked my ECT computer and the truck is running absolutely fine.
i already had a park/to drive switch probelm with the automatic, all i did was run it to a switch in the cab to make it think it was in park or drive (only used for starting purposes).

reverse light circuit, all i am going to do is run my own wires from battery to switch to reverse lights. i am adding aux lights anyways, so i would already be doing this.

this will also get you a lot of the parts you need

http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/...rade-combo-kit

also i must add that i used a turbo bell housing with a v6 r150 transmission and everything was still exactly in the same mounting spot, even the drive shaft.

strykersd

Thanks for the help guys! I just bought a 22re clutch kit with a lifetime warranty from autozone for 1/5th the cost of the one from marlin. Hopefully it'll hold the power from my 22rte since I'm running more PSI than stock.

Every time I've switched a car over from auto to manual the wiring is pretty common. Most automatic vehicles reverse lights are actuated by the automatic shifter and there are almost always a two wire sensor on the transmission for reverse lights, so just run wires from that sensors to the old shifter wires. Then wire the truck to think it's in park so it will start.

I've spent the last two days picking up parts and almost have everything I need, I'll update this thread soon!

strykersd

HHhmm, this clutch talk just got me thinking. For just $50 more I can run a 22rte clutch and flywheel. According to autozone's website they both have a 21 spline count, just the turbo clutch measures 9 5/16" diameter whereas the non-turbo clutch measures 8 7/8". After doing some searching, it looks feasible! I'll order the parts and see what I can do!

weaselman

its 100% possible, especaill if you are going to not spend the money on marlin get the turbo one from autozone. (i did and would do it every time) i have had to many problems with the autozne crap clutch. yeah surte it may be lifetime warranty, but the hassle of messing with it is to much.

strykersd

Plus that way if I do want to upgrade my clutch down the road I'll already have the correct flywheel!

strykersd

After going to the junkyard the other day and deciding that it wasn't worth pulling the transmission and transfer case to get to the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, I went to the dealership and ordered new flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I ordered six Flywheel bolts (Toyota PN 90913-01011) and six pressure plate bolts (Toyota PN 90119-08079) and it came out to $35. After reading everywhere that the automatic flex plate bolts are different from flywheel bolts, to my dismay they are the exact same bolt. I'm sure my parts guy ordered the right ones since I was talking to him about the swap. Maybe 22rte flex plate bolts are longer than 22re flex plate bolts? Oh well, I guess that's why I made this thread, to give a comprehensive write-up!

Here's a picture of the flywheel bolt. It's just under 1", so if that's how long yours are you're fine!


Hopefully my parts guy will let me return these and get my $30 back since they were special order. *Fingers crossed*

weaselman

I told you! They are the same bolt. I literally just did this about 2 weeks ago. And I had a turbo automatic. Went to a turbo 5speed.

strykersd

My mistake! You made it sound like you just decided to re-use your automatic bolts, I didn't know that they were the exact same bolts!

Punchy

My 92 auto had shorter bolt and the manual from my other 92 had longer and the ones I got from Toy were the longer and they had the loctite on them.

strykersd

I'm currently just waiting on my clutch kit and flywheel kit to come in the mail from Autozone.com . I could have just bought it from my neighborhood Autozone, but Autozone.com keeps having 20% off sales with free shipping on anything about $75, so if I'm not in a rush and I'm spending over $75 I'll just order it and have it shipped to my house.

After a trip to the dealership and the junkyard I picked up a few more parts. I got pressure plate bolts and t-case shifter gasket from the dealership and a top shift transfer case shifter from the junkyard.

22RE autos and manuals come with different transfer case mounts so I needed to pick up a manual mount. I just ordered a super duty transfer case mount from 4x Innovations. I already got it in, painted it and bolted it up to my t-case but nothing is really picture worthy. It's a nice, solid unit, my only gripe with it is that it uses imperial (inch) hardware and I normally only carry metric tools on the trail.

The only parts I believe I still need are the shifter boot, transmission shift knob and the transmission tunnel out of a 5spd truck and I believe I've found a source for all three.

The t-case shifter set me back $20, the pressure plate bolts and t-case shifter seal were another $6 and the t-case mount was $65, bringing the swap total up to $389.

strykersd

Alright, I got a lot done today! I first installed my turbo clutch kit and flywheel. As everyone reminded me, I didn't forget to install the pilot bearing! Although I've done many of these swaps before, it's an easy item to forget. It also helps that I bought a clutch kit that included one, so you stop and think to yourself, "What's this bearing in the box for?"


Next up, I took some rough measurements of how much of the floorboard I had to cut to fit the shifters. It was roughly, 9" long and 3" wide. It's not perfect, but next time I go down to the junkyard I'll take some measurements of the factory hole and get it closer to stock. On a side note, while I work on cars in my garage I just let my dog, Guinness, sit in the back seat of my 4runner since the top is off. While I was under the truck marking where to cut, I look up and see this! haha

Silly dog thinks he can drive!

After cutting the hole in the transmission tunnel, I bolted up the transmission and t-case to the engine. From there I tried bolting up my Budbuilt crossmember and rear drive shaft. Luckily, both fit just fine! Out of curiosity I took rough measurements of both transmissions and it appears as if the manual transmission is only 1.5" shorter than the automatic (38.5" vs 40"). That was a huge relief!

Here's a shot of how I left it, with the 4xInnovations mount and Budbuilt skidplate in place!


For all things that worked out, I had a few small hiccups. While bolting in my transmission/transfer case, I noticed that my transfer case didn't have a 4WD sensor. I'll have to go to the junkyard and see if I can find one of those.



The turbo clutch kit and flywheel from Autozone with there 20% off online orders set me back $159, bringing my total cost up to $548. I'm making progress though! Hope to have it back on the road soon!