*darcy*

this just started yesterday, having removed the rear brakes (we thought it was a rock stuck in the drum or something) it's been narrowed down to the drive shaft near the transfer case (?) the video some what shows the noise, it sounds like marbles are in there! any thoughts on where to start diagnosing or a fix?? '89 4runner, 4wd, auto, 215k miles thanks! --darcy

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iamsuperbleeder

honestly, sounds like normal gear-play after 215k miles to me

maybe a squeeky u-joint though


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91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system


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TOYOTA 1

id pull the shaft and check everything separate. (u-joints, transfer case output, and the pinion flange on the rear end). it will make it easier to narrow it down.

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91 Toyota "built not bought"

*darcy*

yeah, this will probably turn into a weekend job. we had a hard enough time getting the rusted drums off earlier if anyone else has a suggestion, please let me know. we'll probably pull it apart saturday.

just hate that i've been dd'ing this thing for a few weeks and now it sounds like a pos coming down the road! part of the fun of these older trucks i guess...!

OutlawMike

I agree, it sounds like a dry U-joint. You could try pushing some grease in there while the assembly is still in the rig, or just pull it and check the U joints on the bench. I just had mine out yesterday to the driveshaft shop to be balanced. There are 4 bolts on each end, pretty darn easy to remove.

Interesting thing that came up with my driveshaft. I took it in and told the guy to put new U-joints in it and balance it. It has 138k, miles on it with stock U-joints. He tells me that if the joints are still good, I am better off just greasing them up and keeping them, as no aftermarket U-joints are as good as factory Toyota joints. The guy was trying to talk me out of spending more money with him. He believed in the superiority of 135k used Toyota U-joints over any replacement joint he had in stock. He checked them out and flushed a bunch of grease through them. I left them in and had him balance it. No more driveline vibration. This was with Driveline Service of Santa Rosa. A good shop, I would recommend them, if you are in the North Bay area (CA).

One other thing. When you take the driveshaft off, make sure you mark the orientation of the two shafts relative to eachother. The front and rear shafts are connected by a slip shaft that you can easily separate. You need to put it back in the same clocked location.

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1989 4Runner V6 Auto IFS, 1.5" BJ spacers, 2" OME leaf springs, OME T-bars, 3/4" 4Crawler body lift,
1" 4Crawler front diff drop, ARB Bull Bar, Warn M8000, PIAA driving lights, MC rear bumper,
OME shocks f/r, OME steering stabilizer, Total Chaos idler arm, 33x10.5.x15 BFG AT's on RockCrawler 15x8"x4.5"BS wheels,
Downey Headers, Flowmaster 70 series, 5.29 gears, LockRights f/r

Build Thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f191/outlawm...thread-187558/

TOYOTA 1

hes right about the toyota joints, i go threw the aftermarket ones pretty quick.

why did you need to balance your drive shaft? just wondering.

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91 Toyota "built not bought"

OutlawMike

I was hoping someone would not ask that...

So, I did a lift project on the rig over the summer. Every since I had this vibration issue at 65 miles per hour. I convinced myself that I put the driveline back in correctly (I had separated the slip joint from the main shaft). I finally took it in. The guy calls me, tells me the slip shaft was 180 out, which was causing most of the vibration. But, he says he can get it better than factory, so, I tell him to go ahead. He cut off the factory balance weight, rebalanced it. Ended up using two weights, one in the front, one in the back. Now, no vibration at all.

Moral of the story, really mark the alignment of the slip shaft to the main shaft, don't think you have it right. And even if you are sure you have it right, at least unbolt the thing and rotate the slip shaft 180 to check if that is the problem.

It was only $67 to flood grease through the U-joints and balance the assembly.

Does anyone know if the U-joints you get at Toyota dealer are the same high quality that came with these rigs?

__________________
1989 4Runner V6 Auto IFS, 1.5" BJ spacers, 2" OME leaf springs, OME T-bars, 3/4" 4Crawler body lift,
1" 4Crawler front diff drop, ARB Bull Bar, Warn M8000, PIAA driving lights, MC rear bumper,
OME shocks f/r, OME steering stabilizer, Total Chaos idler arm, 33x10.5.x15 BFG AT's on RockCrawler 15x8"x4.5"BS wheels,
Downey Headers, Flowmaster 70 series, 5.29 gears, LockRights f/r

Build Thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f191/outlawm...thread-187558/

TOYOTA 1

lol.. atleast your man enough to admit that you made a mistake!

oh and im not sure about the joints, though it is a very good question and i would like to know the answer.

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91 Toyota "built not bought"