sleaz22xx

I have been searching YT (all over the interwebs actually) for a couple weeks now and cant seem to hang my hat on a deff. cuase for the knock. I would like to know if someone with more 3.0 experience has dealt with the same issue and factors before I spend time/ money I dont have pulling the pan. ( baby incoming)

The Facts:

93 3VZE 5 speed 4wd 210k
New plugs and 20w-50
Headgaskets good to my knowledge
I do not yet have compression numbers


Description of issue:

Knock/rattle when warm at 2000-3000 RPM. No noise when oil/motor is cold. No noise at idle or over 3k. Louder under load, but can immitate by opening the butterfly and reving by hand. By pulling plug wires I have isolated it to hole #6. have no noticable lose of power. I have looked at the cyclinder with a bore scope and have seen no noticable damage to the walls. The motor does not smoke.

My thoughts

Im thinking either wrist pin or rod bearing, hopfully the later so I do not need to pull the head. I know #6 is a common spot for the HG to fail, possibly leaking water in the cyl and causing damge to the pin. Im ruling out piston slap based on the fact the knock is worse when warm, not cold.

I am wondering if wrist pin failure is common on these motors? Also would it make sense that it could be rod bearing being that there is no knock at idle , and goes away at 3k?


Any input is welcome and Appreciated

Brandon

TNRabbit

I wouldn't say wrist pin failure is common, but it does happen. You could probably drive it another 30,000 miles as is (it's been done!) before it going out, but of course you'd cause damage. Could go either way as to pin or rod.

Now is the time to decide what your long-term plans are. Run into the ground & junk it, rebuild & extend it's lifespan, or engine swap.

I rebuilt my 3VZE 6 years ago due to HG failure. The engine, @ 218,000 miles, had zero wear.

In retrospect, I'd have gone with a 3.4 swap. I researched the 4.0 Lexxus swap extensively but didn't go that route due to complexity & cost.

I have 274,000 miles now & she runs great.

sleaz22xx

thanks for the response

This is where I am at now. Trying to decide what to do. The truck also needs the diff rebuilt , and has a whiney trans. But the body/ chassis is totaly rust free and clean( tucson since new). A 3.4 swap would be nice, but seeing as how I only have the purchase price and cost of new fluids into the vehicle now, with no serious modifications , I think it would be cheaper to sell and purchase a gen 3 with a 3.4.

Mandy Tuning

turn on the radio and run it until it blows,maybe another 100,000 miles.

TNRabbit

My tranny has been on the way out for 50,000 miles. Clips 2nd teeth a little now as I ran it almost dry of oil for a few hundred miles without knowing. Same with the diff. Both perform well & have done for for a LONG TIME. You'd be amazed how long they will last even with issues.