jbaugh911

Hello I have been having trouble out of my brakes.. Originally my caliper seized up on the interstate// had to pull over and let them cool down and they released. I got home went to advanced auto and bought a new caliper. Put it on with new pads. The next day on the interstate it did the same thing. So I came home and replaced the hose on the inner wheel well.. I bled all the brakes and it is still doing it.. The Master cylinder looks fairly new (just bought the truck 6 months ago). The brakes are still doing the same thing// Had to pull over on the way to work and thank goodness I had a 10mm wrench and I bled the caliper and it was fine.. Please help

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Have you flushed the entire system.

When bled do all four corners have same pressure when bled under pressure?

Might try disconnecting hard line at both end and try using compressed air to blow it out. Watch for moister from compressed air though.

Might better check run out on rotors.

scope103

Can you tell if both pads seized or only one? (often the disc is damaged enough to tell). If the "pin" (see this drawing: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...8-4wds1212.pdf) is bent, the pad will not slide back in the caliper; if the pad stays put that's the same as seizing.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Restriction in the line The Master Cylinder pushes the fluid into the caliper moving the pistons.

The pistons don`t have enough to push all the fluid out each brake application more fluid is left in the piston.

Till constant pressure of the pad on the rotor and you get that sweet smell of hot brake material.

Could be you got a poor reman or like I said in the line.

If it is only that side look for a crushed brake line

*** Yes there is always brake fluid in the pistons but I was trying to keep it simple!!

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Nice did not see that...

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar experience and it was a faulty brake booster on mine. As it was explained to me, somehow the vacuum was actually applying the brakes. I still dont fully understand it.

You will have limited braking, but how I found out my booster was bad, was I disconnect the vacuum line from the booster and plugged it with a bolt. I tested it on some back roads in a safe area for about 20 miles and no more problems. Swapped in a new booster and problem fixed.

If you do a test like this you will have some poor braking. Do NOT do it a heavy traffic area. Both calipers were seizing on mine and not just one.

Old_ blue

ya you might want to see if the front brakes are still being applied like terry said. Lift up the wheels and spin them to see if they are free or a bad drag from the pads. The calipers for these trucks are really nice=fixed 4 piston. Maybe look at the stuck calipers and take out the pistons. bad rust and pitting could be from old brake fluid. Definitely flush the brake fluid. some manufactures reccomend new fluid every 4 years.