Tx_QtPi

So last couple of days the Runner has been a little shaky. Mostly between shifts or at idle. Didn't think much of it.

#1. Today it would NOT START, I had to press the Clutch Start Cancel Switch to get it to crank up. It started and I made it about a mile from my house before it stalled.

#2. When it stalled, it sputtered like it has been doing the last couple of days and trembles like its not getting gas.

It is a 1991 4runner, 3.0, 4x4, Manual Transmission.

I'm suspecting the COR but not 100% positive does the COR control the clutch (or any part of the csc, to make it not start up) too?

I'm about to go do the jumper test on the COR, someine told me to check the air intake hoses too because the affect the AFM, which has something to do with the fuel pump, is this right?

Point me in the right direction for a fix to get the 4Runner back up and running please!!

Thanks so much. Cynthia

scope103

The clutch switch operates the starter relay, not the COR. Once you're running your (obvious) problem with the clutch switch should have no effect.

The jumper test (FP to B+ with key "ON", listen for fuel pump) tests (by bypassing) the COR and VAF circuit. If it starts with the jumper and won't without it, that's where you need to look. If the air intake (after the VAF) has pretty big holes in it, they might keep the vane from moving and triggering the COR. But holes that big will keep the truck from running anyway; the jumper test only bypasses the VAF flow switch, not the air flow meter that the ECU uses to set injector duration.

I speculate that your problem is elsewhere, but the jumper test is so easy you should do it first.

Tx_QtPi

Awesome! Thank for the quick reply!

I had an alarm installed last night and they removed the hoses from the AFM to the intake to install the siren so I'm guessing they may have left something loose... I'll check the hoses. Maybe that will take care of it.

scope103

... and the next morning it wouldn't start. Could they be related?

I'd get it back to the alarm shop before I spent much time horsing around with the COR/VAF circuit. You probably have an ignition cut-off, and something might not have been installed correctly.

Tx_QtPi

I didn't suspect that because it ran home fine last night... but I'll give them a call... Thanks Again.

Tx_QtPi

LOL... IF anyone is wondering after much speculation and "webMD-ing" My problem, it turned out the gas gauge was on empty...

That took care of the stalling but the Clutch Start Cancel button still needs to be pressed to start it up... any ideas?

BamaYota1

The electrical switch in the cab on the clutch pedal is either bad, unhooked, or way out of adjustment.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

And while you have your head under the dash, inspect the clutch pedal bracket.

Tx_QtPi

Kewl! I'll have to figure this one out I noticed the pedal goes back but doesn't make contact with the button thingy. Might have to adjust the pedal bracket cause the switch looks like it's as far up as it'll go... will it hurt anything to drive it around like this for a couple more days?

BTW, thanks for all the help this has been good info to know.
Cynthia

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Sounds like the bracket fatigue issue, plenty of threads here about it. Either that or just a wore out spring. The switch will hardly ever move it has nuts on both sides it would be obvious if one had striped out and slipped.

You can test for a weak spring by lifting up the pedal, if it comes up easy its probably the spring. If it takes abit of force or makes a clicking/popping noise it's the bracket.

Better fixed sooner than later it'll be constantly activating the clutch.

Nothing wrong with having to use the override button.

The bracket crack, if it is that, is a safety issue.