jaredbishop

1990 4Runner 4WD Manual 3VZ-E 214,000 miles

I start it up and let it warm up. It will idle at about 850 rmp. After about a half mile it just dies. I can floor it and it appears that no fuel is getting to engine. It wont immediately start up again, but after a few minutes it will turn over and run without a problem. I've recreated this problem 4 times each time it dies while turning or heading up a steep grade never while going straight.


I've read a few post about a possible problem with the ECU (ECM) O2 sensor and fuel filter. I'm inclined to think it may be the fuel filter. I've heard it's hard do so I may have shop do it for $100.


This last week I've:
Installed new plugs
Installed new wires
Installed new distributor cap & rotor
Changed oil 10w30 (stopped all the oil leaks)
Change oil filter
Installed new battery


Added Seafoam as directed


Any Ideas?

jsn_stockard

I would start with fuel filter. Sounds like it is loading with trash and starvin the engine

jaredbishop

Up date:
I used a paper clip trick to read the error codes and got error 51. As I understand 51 is related to Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). So I disconnected it started it up. Out shot more oil, I guess it's from the Seafoam I added a few days ago. I ran it down the street and it died. I was going fast enough to pop the clutch. All I got was a bit of jerking before it died again. 10 minutes latter I was able to start it up again. It ran horrible up hills. I drove home plugged in the TPS and it seemed to run fine however it was idling at about 1100 rmp rather than 850rpm.

I'll try again tomorrow with a cold engine but my guess I'll have the same results. Saturday I'll get ahold of an ohm meter and test my TPS as directed by the FSM to verify that it is working.

abecedarian

"Out shot more oil"? I don't recall you saying it shot oil out in the first place.

Code 51 is a "switch signal" which means:
1) the a/c was on when the diagnostic mode was entered
2) the clutch pedal was depressed (or clutch start cancel switch was on) when diagnostic mode was entered
3) TPS IDL signal not received by the ECU when diagnostic mode was entered.

jaredbishop

Sorry yes I added Seafoam as directed though a vacuum line to clean out the engine a bit and out shot oil and black smoke. Seafoam was also added to the engine oil and fuel. I figure it's still working on cleaning some of it out.

As for code 51:
1. I know the AC was not on.

2. the clutch start cancel switch may be on. It's old and I can tell if it is in or not. I played with it a bit, not sure what it should do as I always have to put the clutch in to start it up. I'll double check.

3. I'll uncover the ECU and check for any bad or lose connections at that end and check the wire from end to end for any problems.

myyota

Change the fuel filter and see if that helps, its possible that its never been changed and that can cause atleast part of the problem your having.

jaredbishop

I think I'll change the fuel filter this weekend. I find it odd that fuel would flow freely until I actual put into gear and drive it a couple of blocks. I figure if it's the fuel filterI could reproduce the error even if it not in gear.

A bit more info:
I can usually tell just before it is about to die. I push in the clutch and try to rev the engine but nothing happens. One it dies and 10 minutes later i restart the problem will not reoccur. Seems to only happen on a cold engine.

What happens when it is in gear that could account for the stall? I can let it sit in the dirve way and rev the engine all day long and it wont stall.

fierohink

When you are stall or are about to, go around and open the fuel cap and see or more specifically hear if air rushes in.

jaredbishop

What does it mean if I don't hear a hiss?

DupermanDave

A leak of some kind (vacuum or exhaust). Where is the hiss coming from?

Junkers88

X2. This thing has got symptoms that sound like a vapor lock.

fierohink

I have seen this numerous times (and on my rig currently) that the gas cap goes bad or the vapor line to the charcoal canister gets kinked and causes the tank to vapor lock. The pump runs but can't over come the building vacuum in the fuel tank. Then sputter sputter die. It would idle but not go much above that, at low fuel flow there was enough leakage in the system to allow the pressure to equalize. But give it any gas and vapor lock city.

fierohink

If you don't hear a hiss that is normal. A hiss indicates some type of vapor lock/vacuum leak.

jaredbishop

First of all what I thought was oil looks to be carbon buildup shooting out from the tail pipe. The stuff that shot out yesterday all over some boxes in the garage is now dry and looks like charcoal. I assume that is the the Seafoam still doing it's job.

When I stalled I opened up the gas cap and there was no vacuum hiss.

What should I do to verify that it is vapor lock?
What should I check / replace?

I did a bit of reseach and I'm think I should be looking at the Ignigtion Coil and the Igniter if it is a vapor lock.

jaredbishop

Well I had emissions checked and it failed. The tech there said after adding the Seafoam I need to drive it more. It's not done cleaning out all the carbon. I've driven it about 10 miles since I add the Seafoam. Any ideas or comments?

jaredbishop

I inspected the O2 sensor per the FSM (EG2-250). The resistance held at 4.999. It should be between 5-7. I figure it is good.

jaredbishop

I've almost passed. driven it 70 miles since I added SeaFoam. Oil is no longer leaking from the tail pipe or from any where else. I'm going to check the TPS, pull the plugs and make sure they are gapped properly (i think I forgot to do that). I'll also do another compression check. Last time 1 & 6 had low compression.

I may try another round of SeaFoam. I did not follow the directions when adding into the vacuum line. I did not let it sit i just reved the engine so it would not die. I also added a whole can of it that way.

I might add some denatured alcohol it the fuel too.

Any one have any other ideas?

jaredbishop

Solved the stalling problem and passed emissions.
The stalling was due to the improper gaping or spark plugs.

mastacox

There's no way improperly gapped spark plugs caused the symptoms you have described, but it's good you got it running nonetheless. My guess would have been your fuel pump.

jaredbishop

Ok let see. At the same time I did spray some throttle body cleaner in the throttle body, changed the air filter, and gaped the spark plugs. So it did stop. It also idles at about 500 rpms some times. most of the time it is about 950 rpms.