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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 04-02-2010, 10:34 AM   #101
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Whatchya got in mind for your next rig?
well, I just got rid of the 91 DLX and picked up a brand new 2010 F150, so I have a good tow rig, so I can go all-out with my next rig I'm undecided on a 2nd gen 4Runner or a 3rd gen Pickup, but I want to stick with that body style. Maybe a beafy 302 swap, and a SAS 4-link since it wont be my daily driver, the only thing holding me back will be my wallet, LOL

but that'll be a few years from now
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:10 AM   #102
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I just picked up an 89 pickup and it doesn't have a tach I had a couple of questions about this cluster swap

1. did anyone ever determine what the proper tach resistance was for a 22RE? the guide linked to earlier claims 31.1Kohm for a 8cyl and that the original cluster was 42.5Khom but never stated if the original was a 6cyl or a 4cyl... most of the clusters I've found are from V6s so it'd be nice to know.

2. the speedo cable is pretty noisy above 40mph, sounds like you have the HVAC fans on full blast. Is it possible to swap to an electronic VSS/speedo? If so, what's involved?

I'm guessing I'd have to find a new VSS and run the wires up to the dash, but the rel question is if the electronic VSS will work in a 5speed that originally had the cable gear.
Failing that is there something I can do to quiet the thing down?
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:04 AM   #103
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Twisted, adjust the screw on the back of the cluster, turn it CCW 2 to 3 degrees and it should be correct. As far as the speedo cable, Napa sells the cable for $18.00, just replace it.
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:05 AM   #104
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Try lubing the cable first with synthetic chain lube.
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Old 06-05-2010, 02:34 PM   #105
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pulling the needle is easy s pie if u use a pair of inward dikes, just be sure not to cut off the little shaft
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Old 06-12-2010, 08:46 PM   #106
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I finally got around to pulling my cluster apart. it's a cable driven cluster from a V6 4runner.

the pot has 3 pins and the top isn't attached to anything. so resistance should be measured between the bottom two pins. Mine came adjusted to 44.9Kohm

I've got an aftermarket tach in my truck right now so I'll adjust it exactly to match that and report back with the new resistance.

I'd suspect it would vary from vehicle to vehicle. however if what crafthorse says is true and I need to turn it ccw, then chances are the 4cyl will have the same adjustment as the v8... which makes sense because from my chevy V8 swap experience in other cars... they use a 4cyl type tach pulse... that means you're looking at a tach ajdustment about 10Kohms lower for the 4cyl than the 6cyl...
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Old 06-12-2010, 09:04 PM   #107
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Removing the green paint is defantly something I want to do!

What method did you use for the plates?
sandpaper..you can also use alcohol but be careful not to get it on the front
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:01 AM   #108
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I just tuned my v6 cluster's tach to work with my 22re... I had an aftermarket tach that I was comparing against. if you take the "glass" off the cluster you can reach the trim pot with a very thin screw driver.

after I tuned it I pulled the cluster and metered the value 63.8K ohms for the 22re (44.9Kohm originally from the v6)
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:05 AM   #109
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I just tuned my v6 cluster's tach to work with my 22re... I had an aftermarket tach that I was comparing against. if you take the "glass" off the cluster you can reach the trim pot with a very thin screw driver.

after I tuned it I pulled the cluster and metered the value 63.8K ohms for the 22re (44.9Kohm originally from the v6)
cool!

very good info!

would you mind if I edited the opening post and added this information for future readers? I'll be sure to quote your name for the efforts!



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Old 06-13-2010, 01:52 PM   #110
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please do... that's why I posted the info. I also took pictures of where the trim pot is located, and where people should be probing to meter the values I'll post those up shortly.

------------

another tip... since my truck has a 3" body lift it was next to impossible to get the speedo cable reconnected. I probably spent a good hour and a half scraping up my hands and arms sandwiching my arm between the dash and the cluster while trying to guide the cable into the back of the cluster but the cable just didn't have enough slack to reach with my hand in there.

Finally I got the idea to remove the HVAC airway for the two center vents. There is a single Philips screw on a metal bracket holding the airway at the bottom, just above the HVAC controls. Remove that screw and then you can pull the airway out.

Once it's out of the way you can easily reach through where the airway used to be and around to the back of the cluster. doing this you have enough room that you could probably even clip in/unclip the speedo cable and all the electronic connections with the cluster bolted in place.

Last edited by twistedsymphony; 06-13-2010 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 06-13-2010, 04:51 PM   #111
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anyone know where i can buy an sr5 cluster? i tried ebay and craigslist.. no luck
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Old 06-13-2010, 04:55 PM   #112
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please do... that's why I posted the info. I also took pictures of where the trim pot is located, and where people should be probing to meter the values I'll post those up shortly.
cool, thanks!

I'll wait on the pics and include those too!


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anyone know where i can buy an sr5 cluster? i tried ebay and craigslist.. no luck
I found mine in a junk yard, both out of 4Runners

For some reason you tend to find more 4Runners in the junk yards than you do Pickups; at least around here anyway

But one will pop up on eBay every once in a while; I sold two of them on there
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:21 PM   #113
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Here are the pics:
The adjustment potentiometer:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
if you have another tach hooked up that you're using to adjust, you can sneak a thin and long screw driver in there to adjust it (I had to gently push against the pot with the driver to bend it back slightly and seat, but this shouldn't cause any harm.)

if you don't have another tach to adjust by then you can pull it out by removing these 3 screws:
Click the image to open in full size.

then use your multimeter to measure resistance across these two points:
Click the image to open in full size.

The V6 was originally setup with a value of 44.9K ohms, I adjusted it to 63.8K ohms. I would recommend people converting a 6cyl cluster to a 4cyl to simply add 20K ohms to whatever they started with.

This cluster came out of a 1992 4Runner Automatic V6 SR5, and I installed it in my 1989 Pikcup 5-speed 22re Deluxe, so considering that, you can make anything work with anything.

---------

I have another problem though, I went to swap out the oil pressure switch and the electrical connector wont work with the new sensor, it's missing the slot to slide on sideways... so I'll need to find the proper connector before I'll have a working pressure gauge. In the mean time I've just left it disconnected and taped off so I don't damage the new gauge.

also to go along with that the old sensor required a 27mm socket to remove, the new sensor required a 9/16th open ended wrench to tighten down.

-----------
Oh and alpinexss, I got my cluster right in the marketplace section here, there were at least 5 of them for sale, I got mine from a listing that was a good 6 months old, and I payed way less than similar eBay listings.

I'd rather support other yotatech members anyway.

Last edited by twistedsymphony; 06-13-2010 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:17 PM   #114
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sweet deal!

thanks!

I'm going to edit the first post now!


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Old 06-13-2010, 06:44 PM   #115
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Thanks again twistedsymphony!

I changed around and/or added a few words, but you're name's still all over it




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Old 06-14-2010, 04:27 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by twistedsymphony View Post
Here are the pics:
The adjustment potentiometer:
Click the image to open in full size.

The tachmeter in my 1993 SR5 V6 sometimes reads incorrectly (it drops about 400 rpms). I have a spare cluster from my former 1993 Dlx 22R-E which I didn't use as I didn't know it could be adjusted to work with a V6. The cluster itself is in bad shape as it was damaged in an accident but the tach might still work (it was working fine before the accident). Now that I've read this, I need to find where I left that cluster and try to replace mine!
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:04 AM   #117
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yup... it's as simple as turning that little plastic screw.

though are you sure your problem is with the tach itself? if it randomly drops 400RPM that seems like its more of a wiring issue than a tach issue, though it's still possible that the tach is bad.
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:38 PM   #118
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though are you sure your problem is with the tach itself?
No I'm not!
But I'm wondering what else could cause it.
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Old 06-15-2010, 02:55 AM   #119
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well a lose or frayed wire somewhere could cause the signal to drop out or weaken momentarily and that would cause the RPMs to drop.
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Old 06-19-2010, 09:39 PM   #120
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okay i have finally got my sr5 cluster,
the donor is a 94 4runner v6
i just need to adjust the tach to read accurately for my 22re..

i have opened up the cluster and found the adjustment potentiometer
and can reach it with a screwdriver..

i however dont have access to a fancy multimeter or ohm measurer,
or another tach to compare with

in a previous post it was stated that turning the adjustment potentiometer counter clockwise about 2 to 3 degrees would do the trick and make the tach accurate for the 22re, is there any truth to this?

can anyone just tell me how much to turn the potentiometer and in what direction to get the tach to be atleast somewhat accurate for my 22re?

i know im sort of a simpleton lol but any help is greatly appreciated, as i just want to get my new cluster into my truck
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Old 06-19-2010, 09:39 PM
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