89rnr91rnr

My 91 4runner with 22re was running fine, I started it and it idled perfect, stepped on the gas and all of a sudden it started running like it was on 3 cylinders. I searched and found a large crack in the exhaust manifold, thought I found the problem. Changed the exhaust manifold and cleaned the O2 sensor with throttle body cleaner and it did not help.

When I drive it, it sputters and has no power any where in the rpm range.

While it was idling I pulled the plug wires one at a time to see if there would be any change, and when I pulled number one plug wire it continued to run poorly, so no change. Pulling the other three wires caused the idle to go way down as expected.

The plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new.

I can't find any vacuum leaks either.

I checked for problem codes and got a 41. TPS

Looks like the problem is at #1 based on my investigation.

any ideas.

thanks

89rnr91rnr

Well I ran some Seafoam thru the intake hoping to free up a stuck valve or lifter, but it still runs poorly. Quite a bit of blue smoke out of the tailpipe now.

I put the rest of the Seafoam in the crankcase.

Looks like rebuild time.

89rnr91rnr

OK I have some new info:

I pulled the #1 plug and started the engine and found that it had compression at #1, how much, I don't know.

I put the plug back in and started it up, checked the injectors with a piece of hose (my stethescope) and found that #1 is not making any noise, no clicking or humming.

This is where I need some help......where do I go from here? I can't get to the #1 injector without pulling the intake off, correct? I have heard of people pulling the connector off (even while its running), but I can't even get my hand in close enough to touch it.

any help would be gretly appreciated.

thanks

89rnr91rnr

Anyone?

Buehler?

allnmstkn313

o2 sensors have been known to resent cleaning, id recommend against in the future. i won't touch the topic of seafoam or any other 'miracle' additive, but id never use myself.

code 41 is either the tps or ecu. as the truck still runs, abiet poorly check the tps in place. replace if needed.

next step is to check engine compression/leakdown. hopefully its 140+

the last step as it takes 45 mins or so, is to pull the offending injector out to test. you only need remove the upper manifold and fuel rail to get to it.

instructions here... http://myweb.dal.ca/is353832/93fsm/index.html

89rnr91rnr

thanks for the input, greatly appreciated.

I will do the testing you have recommended and see how it goes.

89rnr91rnr

Well I did a compression test and got pretty good results:
#1 = 171
#2 = 160
#3 = 150
#4 = 150

I pulled the front throttle body off and was able to get to the #1 injector clip. Removed it and tested for ohm reading and got nothing, so tomorrow I will be removing the rest of the upper plenum and pulling the fuel rail and injectors.

I was going to get some remanufactured injectors from an online company like injectorwarehouse.com or something like that.

Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks

arielb1

maybe send out the injectors for cleaning? Ive done it with great results. Keep posting..Im learning.

allnmstkn313

Compression is fine.

Injectors should've read 13.4-14.2 ohms. They also should click open if you run 12 volts into em.

I'd just hit the local junkyard. Just check that it works before installing. Good time to replace the o-rings and grommets while you're at it.

pb4ugotobed

Use a noid light before you go start to spend money on injectors in case it's a wiring issue, computer issue, etc.

89rnr91rnr

I tried running 12v to it, but I didn't notice anything happening. When I get them all out tomorrow I will try it again. Nothing registered on the ohm meter and I tested one on my wifes 3.0 and it tested fine (13.8), so I know I was doing it correctly at least.

I'm not sure what you mean by a "noid" light but I tried a pin type tester (one end has a alligator clip on one end and the other is a needle, with a light in the middle) clipped it to the battery and pin tested the clip that attaches to the injector and the light lit up on both sides?

I check them all tomorrow and see what kind of readings I get.

If I send them out for cleaning and one tested bad with the ohm meter, it's not repairable, correct?

I can get a whole set of remanufactured with a 24 month warranty for 180.00 and get some back on the core reimbursement.

caprater

You may want to check the fuel pump and/or strainer. I had same symptoms and replaced both and fixed it.

Oh...forgot that fix was temporary. Same symptoms about a year later. Replaced both again along with new fuel tank to stop from happening again. Put all back together and wouldn't even crank. I had a clogged fuel line.

pb4ugotobed

Edit: I started to type it all out, but got lazy and thought it to be easier to cut and paste someone else's work. saves me a lot of typing

http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_...e/2593311.html

Definitely a very useful tool.

In the case it's firing, but just clogged or gunked up, you can use a can of the pressurized efi cleaner. It does require some special adapters and a little know how, and it smells horrible. I don't know if it's something that can be acquired at your local auto parts store or not, but you could always have your local dealership run it. I've seen that stuff turn around cars that are a sputtering mess and purr like a kitten after a couple cans of that . But use a noid light and make sure your injector is firing first.

89rnr91rnr

This may be a dumb question but here it goes anyway.

Do I need to release the fuel pressure to remove the injector rail and injectors?

The reason I ask is because I have already begun removing a lot of stuff to get to the fuel rail.

Thanks

pb4ugotobed

No. If it's been sitting a while it's already bled off

89rnr91rnr

Removed all the injectors today and check the connections. The connections to the wiring harness are all good, the #1 injector is the only one that fails the resistance test. But, the o-rings, rubber bushings and tip covers all look pretty bad.

So it looks like 3 of them can be rebuilt, but since they have 280,000miles on them, I will probably go with a remanufactured set from 22re performance, injector warehouse or similar.

I would appreciated any input good or bad about getting remanufactured ones from the names listed above or any others.

I am also trying to decide if I should continue with the teardown and do the head gasket, fuel filter and ?????

Thanks again for the input.

allnmstkn313

Yeah, its not exactly high pressure.

Normally replace p-rings, grommets on a need basis. I prefer toyota parts, so no advice on aftermarket.

No reason to replace the head gasket, your compression was ok. Good time to pull the valve cover and check your valve clearance, timingchain/guides.

pb4ugotobed

I'm not sure if those injectors are made by Aisin or Nippon Denso... it should say on the injector itself. An aftermarket denso injector is the same thing as a Toyota denso injector. I'd replace it with what it came with, I don't like reman stuff. Think of it like this... 1 of your 4 injectors made it what, 280,000 miles? 3 of the 4 injectors are still going strong, Toyota chose those for a reason...

Personally, if it were my truck I'd clean the other 3 real good and replace the bad one. it's uncommon for those to fail, and I'd be willing to bet you'll be in good shape for a long time replacing the broken one. In the event that down the road you have another one fail, It's not like it takes long to pull your fuel rail off... Even on a 3.0 it isn't that big of a deal to gank the fuel rail.

89rnr91rnr

Well, I sent my injectors off to 22REPerformance in Chico, CA for complete rebuild. S/W Jerry who was very helpful. Hope to have them back around this time next week.

89rnr91rnr

Reinstalled my injectors today with the hopes that the problem would be solved. Well it still runs the same; terrible, no power and shaking. I pull the #1 plug wire and there is still no change in how it runs. Pulled 2,3, and 4 and the idle changes as expected.


One more thing and this may not be related at all, I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak near the distributer. It sounds like it is coming from the valve which is screwed into the power steering pump just below the distributer (has two vacuum lines coming out of it). Just a coincidence?

So I am out of ideas.

Next step is take it to a Toyota mechanic.

So if anyone has ideas, please let me know.

Thanks