axekick

I'm so frustrated. I just dropped a rebuiilt motor in my 93 2wd. It runs great and drives great but now the speedo isn't working. I checked the speed sensor per http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/combinat.pdf
It checked out fine. I also checked to see that the sensor is getting power, which it is. Since the speedo and odometer aren't working I think it's safe to assume that the signal isn't reaching them. So all I need to know to get to the next step in diagnosis is where does the signal wire go from the VSS? Does it go to the PCM? To the gauge cluster? I do have a code for the lack of VSS signal. Please help me!!!

Hadmatt54

That combination meter pdf that you accessed is pretty much useless. I can give you the low down on a 94 2wd, hopefully your 93 is similiar. Generally Toyota wiring diagrams are pretty accurate, but they seem to lose it when it comes to the combination meter. I have both the FSM and the Wiring diagram manuals for my 86 4Runner and my 89
4Runner and it's the combination meter in both that have discrepencies between the FSM and the Wiring diagram manual.
Since Toyota went to VSS they really have dropped the ball when it comes to their wiring diagrams.
Here's the breakdown. If you refer to the PDF again terminal D8 is a (Black/Orange wire) that provides 12v. to the VSS, terminal C10 (Green/Blue wire) is the Vss ground and terminal D1 (Green/Red wire) is the signal wire. If you look at the printed circuit on the back of the cluster this is labled as the Sen (sensor) terminal. The VSS is a Hall Effect sensor or electro-magnetic sensor and it produces a 4 pulse per revolution square wave, but that square wave is not a pure square wave so the ECU, TCU and Cruise control computer cannot use this signal from the VSS, they need a pure square wave. What happens is the VSS sends the signal to the speedometer, the speedometer/odometer can use that signal the way it is so the speedometer works. There is also a circuit board built into the speedometer that reforms or rectifies the wave from the VSS into a pure square wave. It is then sent to the ECU, TCU and the Cruise control computer. It's this circuit board that is shown in the diagram of the PDF that you referenced as a speed sensor and the terminal on the back of the cluster where this signal is sent out is 4P, then on to terminal B6 (Green/Blue wire) and on to the computers. The notation on the Toyota wiring diagram says from the computers, but that is incorrect, the 4Pulse pure square wave is being sent to the computers.
Forget about the 4P Green/Blue for now (on the 94 it goes to the ECU 16 pin connector terminal 13). Unplug the connector off of the speed sensor, looking at the connector with the lock on the top. Black/orange is on the left, Green/Blue is in the middle and Green/Red is on the right. You said that you already verfied good voltage, but I'll go through it incase someone else has this problem. First with the ignition key on check for 12v between Black/Orange and Green/Blue, if there is 12v then check continuity between the Green/Red and D1 terminal at the back of the cluster, if that is okay then you need a new Vss. If you didn't measure 12v. then check the voltage from the Black/Orange to the body. if okay then check the continuity of the Green Blue to c10 at the cluster as well as to body ground you may have a issue in the wiring.
If your 93 is the same as the 94 it should be pretty easy to find the problem.

axekick

Wow. Nice write up. I really appreciate it. Everything you described seems to match my case. I'll get this issue solved before it's over. Thanks!

axekick

I finally got around to performing the recommended tests. I tested voltage at the sensor again. It passed. I noticed that the cluster had to be plugged in for this test to be performed. I also tested it across the terminals of the cluster with it plugged in. It passed there too (obviously, it's the same wires). So i checked for continuity of the green/red wire from the sensor to the cluster and it had continuity. I checked for continuity from the sensor plug to the body and there was no continuity. I think that means that there is not a short in the signal wire. So far it seems to pass all tests and should work. Theoretically, if I allow the wheels to turn with the engine running, there should be a pulsating voltage across D1 and C10, right? What I got seems to be constant voltage across them So I still don't know where to go from there.Remember, the sensor did test good (power provided and 4 pulses per turn across signal and ground).

Hadmatt54

You are correct with the vehicle jacked up and the rear wheels off of the ground, if you hook your voltmeter across the sen terminal (D1) to vehicle ground you should measure a voltage pulse. If your meter is a higher end unit that has a high setting it will give you the magnitude of the pulse, if you have an analog meter you can watch the sweep of the hand and determine the magnitude of the pulse. Also you can only do these tests with the connectors plugged in the back of the cluster, the ground originates from another ground circuit in the printed circuit of the cluster.
It doesn't take much of a connection to show continuity...1 strand of any wire in the vehicle will do that, but that is not enough for current flow. What I would do next would be to connect my meter from D1 to the plug and verify continuity and then twist the wires, move the pigtail aroundand see if you lose the continuity. You checked a short to ground, but a short to another 12v circuit will also prevent the pulse from getting to the speedometer. I am talking about D1 and if you are measuring a constant 12v. at the cluster, then the sensor wire could be shorted to another 12v circuit.
If all of the wiring tests prove okay, then it could be your speedometer, but I've never heard of a speedometer going bad, so my money is still on a wiring issue.

axekick

Can you tell me how to remove the pin from the sensor plug? I'd like to run a new signal wire and see if that works.

The funny thing is, I'm lacking clues. I was in the middle of an engine build. One day while I couldn't do anything on the engine because I was waiting on parts I decided to see if I could work on my dash. It's all busted up. Obviously, that included pulling the cluster. So by the time I realized the speedo wasn't working, I'd removed and installed the cluster and engine which includes messing with the harness quite a bit. So i have no idea which caused my problem.

warmonger88

Who cares about the speedo, not like these trucks go fast enough to get a ticket!

axekick

Yeah but there's a check engine light for no speed sensor signal to PCM so it won't pass inspection. Also, I'm going to be using it on work trips so I need the odometer to work.

axekick

All right. I'm getting closer. I have two separate problems. I finally got a pulsing signal at the cluster between D1 and C10 and there was no speedometer response So I'm pretty certain that there is a problem inside the cluster. The other problem is one that made it very hard to diagnose the first problem. The gear inside the transmission that turns the speed sensor is held in place by a metal clip. It is a wire that goes through the gear and has bends on each end so that the ends slip into holes in the shaft on either side of the gear. Those want to slip out of place. When they do, the gear in the transmission slides away from the VSS gear. I got them to stay in place long enough to do my tests but I don't think it will stay for long. How hard will this be to fix? I'm about to drop my tranny to find an oil leak anyway.

Hadmatt54

The FSM should have a breakdown of a teardown of your transmission.
Your vehicle description says 22re, 4 speed...in a 93 unless you have a 4 speed auto shouldn't that be 5 speed?

axekick

It is a 4 speed manual. I think it might be a junkyard tranny. It has some purple writing on it. What is the 4 speed manual called?

Hadmatt54

My 86 fsm lists a w46 transmission, it looks like it is a 4 spd 2wd tranny. I did a search at it said they were in 86-88 pickups 2wd and 89-90 2wd & 4wd. Another search said they were in 2wd trucks from 83-90 and that there was a 4wd version. There was also a G40 that was mated to a 22re from 83-90 and a L46 from 81-84.

axekick

Yeah, It looks like the W46 in the 91 FSM. I took it apart and put new ultra grey gasket maker between all the housing parts. I also tweeked the clip that holds the speed sensor drive gear so that it will stay in place.

On a side note, I used black gasket maker for my oil pan. I noticed a leak at the back of the engine. I dropped the pan (pain in the ass) and the gasket maker was all crumbly. It was all in the oil pan and stuck to the pickup tube. Not good. I cleaned it all up and used ultra grey. I was a little low on the stuff but I got pretty good coverage. I think it will hold up better.

Hadmatt54

Hopefully you have solved your Vss/Spedometer gear engagement problems and you can now narrow down why your speedometer is not functioning.
I did have a speedometer out of 94 but I just finished modifying it to fit in the cluster of an 84 Suzuki Tintop (SJ410) that my son has. He took the Tintop put a Samari frame under it, installed 85 Toyota rear and front ends, 89 W56 and a gear transfer case, with a 1.9 IDI VW turbo Diesel. The Toyota speedometer cable would not work with the Suzuki cluster, so We went Electronic. Speer sensor in the transfer & 3 wires to the cluster. We should have it done in the next month or so.
On the oil pan leak, I guess I can be described as an old fart, I've never been a big fan of using just silicone or gasket maker on an oil pan. I learned a trick years ago when I was rebuilding a 289 Ford. Install the cork oil pan gasket to the block, by using 3M Weather Strip adhesive. One layer on the gasket, one layer on the block mating surface, let it set up a little bit before mating the two together. Loosely install the pan so that the gasket uniformly adhers to the block and let the adhesive cure before you torque the pan. The cork gasket is permantly held in place and will not squish out when the pan is torqued to spec. I've never had one leak and I've built quite a few engines since then.

axekick

I'm afraid this will be a lonely thread but here goes.

I have a W46 transmission. The metal clip that keeps the VSS drive gear in place on the output shaft is all out of whack. Can someone help me find a part number for that clip or a solution to this problem. I just need the little gear to stay in place.

scope103

I can't quite get the right part number from your description.

So, I suggest you use your VIN at some place like http://www.toyotapartseast.com/ and scroll through the parts. Last I checked that site included parts diagrams (which, apparently, Toyota objects to as the diagrams are copyrighted). Using your VIN is much faster than even careful verbal description.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

tYpo? think you meant a W56...

axekick

No, mine really does have a W46. I don't know why. I got the part number. It's 9046725001. I can't get it until tomorrow but once I have it I can get this thing back together in an afternoon.

axekick

Tweaking the stupid little clip didn't work so the transmission is on the floor again along with all of the gear oil I had put in it. I found the part number for the clip. It's 9046725001. Toyota has two on the way for me in case I mess one up. I guess I'll be slapping this bitch back together tomorrow. What's the lesson? Do it right the first time. I'm tired of working on my truck. I just want to drive it.

axekick

I picked up a gauge cluster from a V6 4runner. I didn't pay much attention but I bet it was an auto. Anyway, the tach doesn't work. Everything else seems to work but the BRAKE light stays on no matter what. I can't seem to compile all the info I found from searching. Most threads that had pics no longer have them.

There is no wire pinned to the tack signal location of the connector. Is it possible that there might be a tach wire pinned to a different location that just needs to be moved or do I have to run the wire? There must be a tach signal going to the PCM. Since The speedo signal goes through the cluster, it seems likely that the tach signal does too. Can anyone help me before I give up and put my dash back together without my new tach working?