Speedometer dances to the beat of a different drum...
03-12-2010, 02:13 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Speedometer dances to the beat of a different drum...
This crazy thing's bouncing all over the place, lol. It's almost entertaing to watch, but it's quite annoying at 6am on the way to work 
Use to do it only when it was cold, but now it does it all the time.
I know this is a very common problem, but what's the most common remedy?
New speedo, or could I just get lucky and shoot some graphite or grease down the speedo cable at the dash? Or will I have to just get a new cable
http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n...peedometer.flv
Use to do it only when it was cold, but now it does it all the time.
I know this is a very common problem, but what's the most common remedy?
New speedo, or could I just get lucky and shoot some graphite or grease down the speedo cable at the dash? Or will I have to just get a new cable
http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n...peedometer.flv
03-12-2010, 02:53 PM
#3
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Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
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Sounds pretty bad..
Mine wasnt that bad, but heres what I did (works like a damn charm):
Pull the cluster, then undo the cable from the t-case.
Undo all the clips holding the cable to the body and route the t-case end up and out of the engine bay.
You will now be able to turn it and feel/hear the areas of resistance (I could).
What you want to use is a synthetic chain lube. I use the same synthetic stuff I use for my DH mountain bike. Its like water almost.
Now pull the inner cable up, you should be able to get 1/4" of play. Now while holding the end of the cable as high as you can (I used a stool and held the cable above my head), drip the lube down into the cable. Fill it partway and let it drain into the cable.
Keep turning the cable every now and then and feel for progress.
Lube untill it starts to come out of the cluster end.
Re-route it back down and let some of the nasty dirty lube drain out, then hook it back up.
If that doesnt work your cable is screwed.
Mine wasnt that bad, but heres what I did (works like a damn charm):
Pull the cluster, then undo the cable from the t-case.
Undo all the clips holding the cable to the body and route the t-case end up and out of the engine bay.
You will now be able to turn it and feel/hear the areas of resistance (I could).
What you want to use is a synthetic chain lube. I use the same synthetic stuff I use for my DH mountain bike. Its like water almost.
Now pull the inner cable up, you should be able to get 1/4" of play. Now while holding the end of the cable as high as you can (I used a stool and held the cable above my head), drip the lube down into the cable. Fill it partway and let it drain into the cable.
Keep turning the cable every now and then and feel for progress.
Lube untill it starts to come out of the cluster end.
Re-route it back down and let some of the nasty dirty lube drain out, then hook it back up.
If that doesnt work your cable is screwed.
03-12-2010, 03:01 PM
#4
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Sounds pretty bad..
Mine wasnt that bad, but heres what I did (works like a damn charm):
Pull the cluster, then undo the cable from the t-case.
Undo all the clips holding the cable to the body and route the t-case end up and out of the engine bay.
You will now be able to turn it and feel/hear the areas of resistance (I could).
What you want to use is a synthetic chain lube. I use the same synthetic stuff I use for my DH mountain bike. Its like water almost.
Now pull the inner cable up, you should be able to get 1/4" of play. Now while holding the end of the cable as high as you can (I used a stool and held the cable above my head), drip the lube down into the cable. Fill it partway and let it drain into the cable.
Keep turning the cable every now and then and feel for progress.
Lube untill it starts to come out of the cluster end.
Re-route it back down and let some of the nasty dirty lube drain out, then hook it back up.
If that doesnt work your cable is screwed.
Mine wasnt that bad, but heres what I did (works like a damn charm):
Pull the cluster, then undo the cable from the t-case.
Undo all the clips holding the cable to the body and route the t-case end up and out of the engine bay.
You will now be able to turn it and feel/hear the areas of resistance (I could).
What you want to use is a synthetic chain lube. I use the same synthetic stuff I use for my DH mountain bike. Its like water almost.
Now pull the inner cable up, you should be able to get 1/4" of play. Now while holding the end of the cable as high as you can (I used a stool and held the cable above my head), drip the lube down into the cable. Fill it partway and let it drain into the cable.
Keep turning the cable every now and then and feel for progress.
Lube untill it starts to come out of the cluster end.
Re-route it back down and let some of the nasty dirty lube drain out, then hook it back up.
If that doesnt work your cable is screwed.
may have to give that one a try! Thanks Jay!
03-12-2010, 04:38 PM
#5
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Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
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Mine had always been noisy and jumped. Not as bad as yours, but I did this last month and its amazing. So far its been the only "fix" for me. Ive tried other kinds of lube but this stuff is great. Since its like water it just flows down through the cable..
Its 99% silent and almost perfectly smooth. For $2 worth of chain lube, its worth a shot
Pulling the cable up and out behind the engine is a pain, but my body lift made it very easy heh Am old coat hanger might help in that situation..
Its 99% silent and almost perfectly smooth. For $2 worth of chain lube, its worth a shot
Pulling the cable up and out behind the engine is a pain, but my body lift made it very easy heh
Am old coat hanger might help in that situation..
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