Spark plug not wanting to come out
#1
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Spark plug not wanting to come out
Installing new Denso plugs/wires. got all the plugs out except for #1. Seems previous owner may of stripped it or lardy knows what. Have been pb blastin & turnin back n forth a couple hours, maybe got it to move a thread or so. Y'all reckon I should continue or leave her alone?
#2
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I had this same issue, the shop that installed it did not put anti-seize thread on the plugs and they almost bonded with the engine block.
I took mine to a shop, fearing I would break it off in the block. They soaked it with pb blaster or equivalent and let it sit all day, trying periodically to get it out. They also warmed up and cooled the engine a few times to allow the oils to penetrate. Eventually it came out.
Just soak it real good and try warming the engine (go ahead and put new plugs and wires on the rest) and then letting it cool. If that doesn't work, soak it and let it sit overnight. Eventually it will come loose. Be sure to put an anti-seize compound on your new plugs though!
I took mine to a shop, fearing I would break it off in the block. They soaked it with pb blaster or equivalent and let it sit all day, trying periodically to get it out. They also warmed up and cooled the engine a few times to allow the oils to penetrate. Eventually it came out.
Just soak it real good and try warming the engine (go ahead and put new plugs and wires on the rest) and then letting it cool. If that doesn't work, soak it and let it sit overnight. Eventually it will come loose. Be sure to put an anti-seize compound on your new plugs though!
#5
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Spark plugs were installed by a shop in April of 2011. Were replaced during a tune-up in May 2012 and by then they had seized up in the engine.
It's $1 at Autozone and takes 30 seconds of your time. Every time I've removed plugs for engine work they come out just fine now and I use a torque wrench to ensure I'm not overtightening (the previous two times were done by a shop). These engines run hot, further increasing the risk of the plugs seizing. I really recommend it... save the headache you'll encounter next time.
It's $1 at Autozone and takes 30 seconds of your time. Every time I've removed plugs for engine work they come out just fine now and I use a torque wrench to ensure I'm not overtightening (the previous two times were done by a shop). These engines run hot, further increasing the risk of the plugs seizing. I really recommend it... save the headache you'll encounter next time.
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#8
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Oh I've a big jar of anti seize and have used lot of it on this ol truck so far. Runs very hot with winch on front & electric fan. Winch be coming off after winter.
#9
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Thread Starter
Seen this on Tacoma site:
They didn't say to NEVER use anti sieze - only that it isn't required on SOME spark plugs but IS required on others....
Summary All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize.
They didn't say to NEVER use anti sieze - only that it isn't required on SOME spark plugs but IS required on others....
Summary All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize.
#11
Summary All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize.
beyond that... spark plugs pull heat from the combustion chamber and sink that heat into the head, through the threads... anti-seize acts as an insulator, so it interferes with the heat sinking process, to some minor degree.
#12
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I like that link. I do note that NGK suggests that antiseize is not needed on "initial" install. Does that mean that we should lube them up when we pull them out to regap or check combustion conditions?
#14
I also had problems with removing the #1 plug the first time after getting my used truck. I sort of remember the #1 plug has clearance problems with certain sockets from rubbing on the side. I was worried and so used a thread chaser to clean up the threads:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=557330
I think this was the actual tool I used except double check with your spark plug to be sure.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...questid=557330
I think this was the actual tool I used except double check with your spark plug to be sure.
#15
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Thread Starter
Gamefreak you was right on. PB & drove into town & back 18mi, letter cool off overnight, #1 plug came out easily. no thread damage either. many thanks.
for anyone else having this problem remember :
spray on the PB Blaster
don't get in a hurry
Use only 3/8 drive
back threads out as far as you can
PB some more
work threads in n out as much as you can
PB more
Tighten down plug
Drive to get hot
Let cool
Be patient
Try again, repeat if necessary
for anyone else having this problem remember :
spray on the PB Blaster
don't get in a hurry
Use only 3/8 drive
back threads out as far as you can
PB some more
work threads in n out as much as you can
PB more
Tighten down plug
Drive to get hot
Let cool
Be patient
Try again, repeat if necessary
Last edited by Gone Fission; 10-05-2013 at 12:53 PM.
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