jmoore9982

My runner is a 95 with 3.0 engine. I have been doing some normal maintenance. Belts, hoses, that type of stuff. I was planning on changing the spark plugs and wires, but then started looking at how to get to them and it seems like trying to stick your elbow in your ear. I just finished a timing belt/water pump change so I know my way around the engine, but a plug change looks like it could be a real PIA. Is it really as bad as I am making it? Is it worth doing myself or should I let the shop do it? Any suggestions or tricks to make it easier? Thanks for any input.

abecedarian

1st- do it with the engine cold.
2nd- get the right sized socket for the plugs
3rd- use u-joints or wobble adapters so you don't break the insulator on the plug
4th- use vacuum hose slipped over the end of the plug to help you thread it back in to the head: make sure you can turn it at least 4-5 times before committing to using the socket
5th- is it worth paying 60-80 dollars for someone to install plugs when you can do it yourself in 1/2 hour?

BoostinChick

You did a timing belt/water pump and think spark plugs are going to be difficult? You should have no problems just follow the tips that abe posted above. Also make sure you have the correct gap and either go with OEM (Denso) or NGK.

PCE91V64x4

I'll change your spark plugs if you will change my timing belt.

No sweat man, as long as the PO did it right by using antiseize and not cross threading anything they should come right out.

TNRabbit

The only difficult plug is the rear passenger side. You WILL skin your hand/arm up on that one~

Marc

If you remove the charcoal canister it makes that plug easier.

Also, remove the intake hoses of course.

vandert

Did it last night, went from worn out NGK's to Denso's, and it took me less than 20 min's start to finish including taking the intake off. No biggy man, you'll need a 6 inch extention, and a 2 inch one and that makes it SIMPLE, got rid of a stumble I was having cause the NGK's were WORN out.

sb5walker

Good job on getting those replaced. x2 on the #5 (back right) - when I first changed plugs after buying the truck I found that plug hadn't been changed in a VERY long time and was worn to a nub.

For those who read this in the future, I find a short extension on the spark plug socket, followed by a universal joint, followed by a long extension makes the #5 fairly easy. When installing the new plug, I place it in the socket with just the short extension attached and get it threaded that way, then click on the u-joint & longer extension.

Gap for both engines is 0.8 mm (0.031 in.)

Don't overtorque the plug! Many people do. Spec is 13 ft lbs, which isn't a lot. Those are soft aluminum threads in the head you're attacking with the steel spark plug.

When removing the spark plug boot, pull on the boot, not the wire. If it's stuck, try pushing it on further to break it loose from the plug insulator, or wrap in a thin piece of rubber or cloth and grab with pliers & twist - but do it gently or you'll tear the boot.

To prevent such difficulties in the future, lube the inside of the boot with a (thin!) layer of dielectric grease - but be very careful not to get on the business end of the plug - your O2 sensor will NOT like that grease!

http://www.toyotaownersonline.com/pu...HowToBroch.pdf

jmoore9982

Thanks for the info everyone. I just wanted to make sure that changing the plugs didn't hold some special gotcha before I started.