Some general questions about replacing tie rods
#1
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Some general questions about replacing tie rods
I got back from a shop. They said they couldn't do an alignment without new front tie rods. they quoted me $400 to replace my front tie rods (innners, outers, and sleeves).
I just got off rockauto, and I could get all the parts for about between $60 and $140. So I'm really inclined to do the work myself. I looked at the manual and it seems idiot simple with the right tools. So here are my questions:
1) Is there a big difference between using a pickle fork and a clamp press thingy to remove the old tie rods?
2) If the tie rods have never been replaced (196k truck), will they be really hard to remove?
3) Does it matter if I buy cheap tie rods? ( I barely off-road)
4) Do you have any observations about replacing tie rods that might be useful?
I know it's a few questions, but i really can't afford to have my truck down for a few days while I screw around.
Thanks,
Hanno
Truck is 92 4x4 w/22re no mods
I just got off rockauto, and I could get all the parts for about between $60 and $140. So I'm really inclined to do the work myself. I looked at the manual and it seems idiot simple with the right tools. So here are my questions:
1) Is there a big difference between using a pickle fork and a clamp press thingy to remove the old tie rods?
2) If the tie rods have never been replaced (196k truck), will they be really hard to remove?
3) Does it matter if I buy cheap tie rods? ( I barely off-road)
4) Do you have any observations about replacing tie rods that might be useful?
I know it's a few questions, but i really can't afford to have my truck down for a few days while I screw around.
Thanks,
Hanno
Truck is 92 4x4 w/22re no mods
Last edited by TheGecko; 10-06-2007 at 05:04 PM.
#3
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I must first ask...
What's wrong with the old ones?
answers to your questions
1) Using a pickle fork will damage the boot and possibly the ball joint or tie rod itself. Not a problem if you are replacing them
2) If they have never been off the may be a total PITA to get loose, but maybe not (about a year ago I destroyed my center link trying to get it loose from the pitman arm)
3) Don't get cheap parts. There are reputable aftermarket parts available.
Keep in mind these tie rods are the only thing between you and death. Well maybe that's a bit drastic but I'm sure you can imagine the consequences in the event of a failure.
4) Just keep your mouth closed and wear safety glasses when you are banging away at them. The grease in those boots tastes very bad and doesn't wash out of your mouth very well.
answers to your questions
1) Using a pickle fork will damage the boot and possibly the ball joint or tie rod itself. Not a problem if you are replacing them
2) If they have never been off the may be a total PITA to get loose, but maybe not (about a year ago I destroyed my center link trying to get it loose from the pitman arm)
3) Don't get cheap parts. There are reputable aftermarket parts available.
Keep in mind these tie rods are the only thing between you and death. Well maybe that's a bit drastic but I'm sure you can imagine the consequences in the event of a failure.
4) Just keep your mouth closed and wear safety glasses when you are banging away at them. The grease in those boots tastes very bad and doesn't wash out of your mouth very well.
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The sleeves are apparently completely seized so I can't get an allignment. Currently my truck will eat a fresh MT tire in around 6k miles.
#5
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soak the sleeves in pentrating oil (WD40, PB Blaster, Rostoff, MOPAR heat riser solvent, etc...)
Use a hammer to rap on the sleeves. repeat this several times a day over a couple days.
Use a hammer to rap on the sleeves. repeat this several times a day over a couple days.
#6
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I broke my stuck adjusting sleeves with a hammer, a screwdriver, some PB Blaster, a torch, and about 2 hours of rocking, tapping, banging and heating...
Then, a month later I ended up replacing everything in the front end. Much happier now...
If you're replacing the tie rods, go ahead and use the pickle fork and a BFH. It's really straight forward, just remove the old and install the new in the same place, follow the torque specs and make sure you bend over the cotter pins.
Then get the alignment close and go to the shop to get it professionally set and you're good.
Then, a month later I ended up replacing everything in the front end. Much happier now...
If you're replacing the tie rods, go ahead and use the pickle fork and a BFH. It's really straight forward, just remove the old and install the new in the same place, follow the torque specs and make sure you bend over the cotter pins.
Then get the alignment close and go to the shop to get it professionally set and you're good.
#7
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Y'all don't need a pickle fork or a c-clamp style press.
Just two hammers.
-Remove cotter pin
- Loosen castle nut and back it off but leave it attached.
- Put one hammer behind where the TRE mount is and wack the front end of where it mounts. Might take a couple of hits, but they'll pop loose in a heart beat.
You leave the castle nut on it so nothing drops and hits you on the foot
Fred
Just two hammers.
-Remove cotter pin
- Loosen castle nut and back it off but leave it attached.
- Put one hammer behind where the TRE mount is and wack the front end of where it mounts. Might take a couple of hits, but they'll pop loose in a heart beat.
You leave the castle nut on it so nothing drops and hits you on the foot
Fred
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