So tired of ppl telling me tha the 3vze is a bad motor
10-26-2013, 08:21 PM
#221
Registered User
No cone filter! Some say the EGR delete matters -- other that have done the AFM swap, ISR delete, kept intake as true cold air intake like factory setup, have flamethrowers, and advanced timing see that dead spot go away w/ those too (and you don't have the ECM issues w/ expecting the exhaust gas as part of the equation but it's not there).
Start w/ all the maintenance items. You have to assume that none of this was kept up with, and a lot of the electrical control stuff on this engine won't send an error code when it goes -- so you have to inspect everything using the FSM (factory service manual; shouldn't take you longer than a half day to do). Filters (consider an oil bypass filter like Pareto Point's Top Dog V for add'l filtering and more oil capacity for cooling and longer change intervals), fluids, install stronger magnetic drain plugs when changing fluids, grease, check all the sensors, NGK plugs, 8mm wires or at least NGK, cap, and rotor, replace all your soft lines on the engine -- especially vacuum and water. Do an engine flush, good fuel injector cleaner, seafoam, amsoil foam. Replace PCV valve. Adjust your valves. Clean all the crud out of the oil cooler (dirty/clogged it's a potential restriction point for both oil and coolant, and causes increased wear on pumps if not flowing free). Install an external tranny cooler if you have an auto. Replace the radiator w/ a 3 core if it hasn't been replaced recently -- increased cooling and less chance of pink milkshake if you ahve an auto. Manual hubs. Install lower gears. Advance timing to 12-15* btdc. Replace 02 sensor.
***Caveat, before you start dropping $ on your engine, definitely consider the 3.4 swap. If looking for power, that's where it's at. And arguably, reliability is there too...
Intake:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tuneup-271923/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-setup-272137/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...or-mod-272014/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...polish-271601/
-AFM Mod:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fm-mod-148584/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ap-3vze-60513/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-think-183463/
Exhaust:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pe-mod-204019/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/mods-3vze-120914/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estion-272609/
My take is that you can fab everything you need and get 75+% of the benefit of headers w/o spending 1/5th of what you otherwise would on them.
1) Remove crossover.
2) Rotate crossover down. Install drivers side crossover flange as downpipe on passenger header. Cut/bend where needed and install add'l pipe to reach the crossover in next step.
3) Get the LC Engineering Y pipe. $200. Install other crossover flange to pipe to connect to drivers header factory down location. http://www.lceperformance.com/Street...-p/1041058.htm
4) Block off driver's header crossover inlet w/ metal plate.
5) Get the LC Exahaust kit and install: http://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-Fl...-p/1042000.htm
6) Get High flow cat -- Metal core more durable w/ our running rich engines than cheaper ceramic core (sell old restrictive but with more precious metals cat for $150-$180)
7) Consider modding
7a) Ceramic coat (inside) your custom down pipes -- consider doing so w/ factory headers too (also good to clean out the carbon regardless).
7b) Consider upping your collector size to 2.5" -- would involve cutting Y crossover where down pipes join and then running straight 2.5 from there through cat (would require different cat than typical for step 6) and then reducing to 2.25 to tie into LC Engineering cat back (think this setup would also be ideal w/ a 3.4 swap)
But if wanting headers, Thorley ceramic work best and also allow for EGR and PAIR to remain functional.
Fuel:
Flamethrower oranges look to be a solid and easy upgrade.
Change fuel filter.
Consider doing pump and prefilter (needs done soon regardless -- near faiilure), and drop and clean tank if fuel filter is especially nasty
Misc:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k-3vze-187741/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-mods-137507/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...-needed-37265/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rebuild-35794/
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&Number=591383
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&Number=591621
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...3vz-turbo.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-why-265651/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...owners-136622/
And these are some good summaries that I copied into a document but don't have URLS to cite -- sorry, not my thoughts below (but did collect all of nashman's numerous upgrades into one list):
Start w/ all the maintenance items. You have to assume that none of this was kept up with, and a lot of the electrical control stuff on this engine won't send an error code when it goes -- so you have to inspect everything using the FSM (factory service manual; shouldn't take you longer than a half day to do). Filters (consider an oil bypass filter like Pareto Point's Top Dog V for add'l filtering and more oil capacity for cooling and longer change intervals), fluids, install stronger magnetic drain plugs when changing fluids, grease, check all the sensors, NGK plugs, 8mm wires or at least NGK, cap, and rotor, replace all your soft lines on the engine -- especially vacuum and water. Do an engine flush, good fuel injector cleaner, seafoam, amsoil foam. Replace PCV valve. Adjust your valves. Clean all the crud out of the oil cooler (dirty/clogged it's a potential restriction point for both oil and coolant, and causes increased wear on pumps if not flowing free). Install an external tranny cooler if you have an auto. Replace the radiator w/ a 3 core if it hasn't been replaced recently -- increased cooling and less chance of pink milkshake if you ahve an auto. Manual hubs. Install lower gears. Advance timing to 12-15* btdc. Replace 02 sensor.
***Caveat, before you start dropping $ on your engine, definitely consider the 3.4 swap. If looking for power, that's where it's at. And arguably, reliability is there too...
Intake:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tuneup-271923/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-setup-272137/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...or-mod-272014/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...polish-271601/
-AFM Mod:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fm-mod-148584/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ap-3vze-60513/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-think-183463/
Exhaust:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pe-mod-204019/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/mods-3vze-120914/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estion-272609/
My take is that you can fab everything you need and get 75+% of the benefit of headers w/o spending 1/5th of what you otherwise would on them.
1) Remove crossover.
2) Rotate crossover down. Install drivers side crossover flange as downpipe on passenger header. Cut/bend where needed and install add'l pipe to reach the crossover in next step.
3) Get the LC Engineering Y pipe. $200. Install other crossover flange to pipe to connect to drivers header factory down location. http://www.lceperformance.com/Street...-p/1041058.htm
4) Block off driver's header crossover inlet w/ metal plate.
5) Get the LC Exahaust kit and install: http://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-Fl...-p/1042000.htm
6) Get High flow cat -- Metal core more durable w/ our running rich engines than cheaper ceramic core (sell old restrictive but with more precious metals cat for $150-$180)
7) Consider modding
7a) Ceramic coat (inside) your custom down pipes -- consider doing so w/ factory headers too (also good to clean out the carbon regardless).
7b) Consider upping your collector size to 2.5" -- would involve cutting Y crossover where down pipes join and then running straight 2.5 from there through cat (would require different cat than typical for step 6) and then reducing to 2.25 to tie into LC Engineering cat back (think this setup would also be ideal w/ a 3.4 swap)
But if wanting headers, Thorley ceramic work best and also allow for EGR and PAIR to remain functional.
Fuel:
Flamethrower oranges look to be a solid and easy upgrade.
Change fuel filter.
Consider doing pump and prefilter (needs done soon regardless -- near faiilure), and drop and clean tank if fuel filter is especially nasty
Misc:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k-3vze-187741/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-mods-137507/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...-needed-37265/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rebuild-35794/
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&Number=591383
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&Number=591621
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...3vz-turbo.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-why-265651/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...owners-136622/
And these are some good summaries that I copied into a document but don't have URLS to cite -- sorry, not my thoughts below (but did collect all of nashman's numerous upgrades into one list):
Nashman00
7mge supra afm richen by 6 teeth
7mge air box
K&N drop in filter
7mge ig coil
7mgte big body alt 180 amp
copper plug's gapped to 7mge spec
NM 3 inc intake tube w/ isr delete
NM shifter
reed, egr vavle rez delet
apexi neo (fuel computer)
flex alight fan
ngk wires
copper plugs gapped to 7mge supra spec
plx m300 wide band (for tuning)
timing set to 12
doug throley header's
maganaflow high flow 2.5 cat and flowmaster 40 sereis
re rooted fuel line's away from the header to keep them cool
Yes i know this is an old thread. I just performed this swap on my 94 3vze ext cab. The short answer to your question suprathepeg is YES. I drilled out the air idle bypass screw, set the cog 6 teeth rich and built an ISR which took the longest time. i plugged in the afm and started the truck. it stumbled a lot at first but i adjusted the air idle bypass screw IN and it ran great. i re-timed the truck played with the idle to get it to be correct. i quick test drive confirmed that this a very good mod for any 3vze owner looker for power. By the time i finished playing with the idle control and timing i had the throttle body idle screw most of the way out as well as the afm idle screw most of the way out. the timing on my truck is set at 15*. As a side note i also have the the supra coil installed and 8 mm wires. As Nashman00 said..THIS IS A MUST DO MOD!! my 3vze is now a hot rod
thanks to Nashman for the write up
1. Buy factory O2 sensors, keep it well maintained.
2. coreyc619 will be doing some big time work, stay tuned... But definitely change the exhaust and maybe a throttle body.
3. SEAIRESCUE hates the 3.0 and can't grasp the idea of this thread, but believes valves are small, maybe need to upsize.
4. 4Mogger buys amsoil synthetics, has a remote bypass/full flow filter that keeps things very clean, doesn't like the electric fan, did a FIPK style intake, a 10 pound heavier flywheel that he loves, did a better alternator, did headers (which he liked but had problems with), and is a huge fan of better gearing, also when the engine was apart he redid all the tensioners and pulleys.
5. Someone should put together a kit for all the parts that people have thought were necessary.
Now then, it looks like at this time my build is going to include headers (nwor or Downey, can't tell a difference at this point), hi-flow cat, the remote bypass/full flow filter 4Mogger has, a 10 pound heavier flywheel, bigger alternator, and probably 4.88 gears (please comment on this as I've never even looked into this before).
NGK Iridium plugs; NGK wires, cap and rotor.
Ok Once Again Modify It
I guess I am not getting the point here about 3.Slow. If you have it, modify it and quit crying about it, don't be afraid to get down to the nuts and bolts of it and tear it up. There are many simple mods that you can do that produce horsepower as well as fuel economy(if you can keep your foot out of it)and they don't cost alot either and if you're willing to spend a little time and a little more of your hard earned they will go a lot faster. I for one have built the crap out of my Runner and I have'nt spent alot either.(under 3Grand) I have modified everything from a cold air intake, throttle body, heads, headers, cat, exhaust suspension and gearing and my Runner Hauls Ass. I know my runner Hauls Ass, because whether it's eatin' up Chevy's, Ford's or Heeps on the street or passing everthing in sight going up the 15 Cajon pass to the River haulin' MY TWO SEADOO's, I have built my Runner to be fast, because I was tired of hearing from my buddies about how 3.Slow my Runner was, so quit cryin' about it and modify it. Once again The Golden Rule "If A Man Can Make It Another Man Can Modify It.
7mge supra afm richen by 6 teeth
7mge air box
K&N drop in filter
7mge ig coil
7mgte big body alt 180 amp
copper plug's gapped to 7mge spec
NM 3 inc intake tube w/ isr delete
NM shifter
reed, egr vavle rez delet
apexi neo (fuel computer)
flex alight fan
ngk wires
copper plugs gapped to 7mge supra spec
plx m300 wide band (for tuning)
timing set to 12
doug throley header's
maganaflow high flow 2.5 cat and flowmaster 40 sereis
re rooted fuel line's away from the header to keep them cool
Yes i know this is an old thread. I just performed this swap on my 94 3vze ext cab. The short answer to your question suprathepeg is YES. I drilled out the air idle bypass screw, set the cog 6 teeth rich and built an ISR which took the longest time. i plugged in the afm and started the truck. it stumbled a lot at first but i adjusted the air idle bypass screw IN and it ran great. i re-timed the truck played with the idle to get it to be correct. i quick test drive confirmed that this a very good mod for any 3vze owner looker for power. By the time i finished playing with the idle control and timing i had the throttle body idle screw most of the way out as well as the afm idle screw most of the way out. the timing on my truck is set at 15*. As a side note i also have the the supra coil installed and 8 mm wires. As Nashman00 said..THIS IS A MUST DO MOD!! my 3vze is now a hot rod
thanks to Nashman for the write up
1. Buy factory O2 sensors, keep it well maintained.
2. coreyc619 will be doing some big time work, stay tuned... But definitely change the exhaust and maybe a throttle body.
3. SEAIRESCUE hates the 3.0 and can't grasp the idea of this thread, but believes valves are small, maybe need to upsize.
4. 4Mogger buys amsoil synthetics, has a remote bypass/full flow filter that keeps things very clean, doesn't like the electric fan, did a FIPK style intake, a 10 pound heavier flywheel that he loves, did a better alternator, did headers (which he liked but had problems with), and is a huge fan of better gearing, also when the engine was apart he redid all the tensioners and pulleys.
5. Someone should put together a kit for all the parts that people have thought were necessary.
Now then, it looks like at this time my build is going to include headers (nwor or Downey, can't tell a difference at this point), hi-flow cat, the remote bypass/full flow filter 4Mogger has, a 10 pound heavier flywheel, bigger alternator, and probably 4.88 gears (please comment on this as I've never even looked into this before).
NGK Iridium plugs; NGK wires, cap and rotor.
Ok Once Again Modify It
I guess I am not getting the point here about 3.Slow. If you have it, modify it and quit crying about it, don't be afraid to get down to the nuts and bolts of it and tear it up. There are many simple mods that you can do that produce horsepower as well as fuel economy(if you can keep your foot out of it)and they don't cost alot either and if you're willing to spend a little time and a little more of your hard earned they will go a lot faster. I for one have built the crap out of my Runner and I have'nt spent alot either.(under 3Grand) I have modified everything from a cold air intake, throttle body, heads, headers, cat, exhaust suspension and gearing and my Runner Hauls Ass. I know my runner Hauls Ass, because whether it's eatin' up Chevy's, Ford's or Heeps on the street or passing everthing in sight going up the 15 Cajon pass to the River haulin' MY TWO SEADOO's, I have built my Runner to be fast, because I was tired of hearing from my buddies about how 3.Slow my Runner was, so quit cryin' about it and modify it. Once again The Golden Rule "If A Man Can Make It Another Man Can Modify It.
Last edited by RSR; 10-27-2013 at 02:45 PM.
10-27-2013, 03:56 AM
#222
Registered User
I have spent roughly 100 dollars on my engine modifications. I made my own block off plates for the egr delete, so that was cheap. Advanced the timing to 15-16 degrees is free. I only spent money on the AFM setup and the 8 mm plug wires, both of which were found at a junkyard. So for a 100 dollars and some time i turned my truck into a hot rod that is still reliable. Cant do a 3.4 swap for that kind of money. And i had only a few hours of downtime, instead of weeks. You can do headers or do a crossover elimination mod. Search for it you will find it.
10-27-2013, 03:38 PM
#223
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So the timing was off it was set at 5 degrees put it at 15. The spark plugs are junk. the rear dif beathers where pluged up really bad. so i am going to do the breather mod tommow.
10-27-2013, 03:59 PM
#224
BTW, his name's Ted. He's also responsible for ENGNBLDR.com. And for supplying the O/S valves for this engine. Among other things.
Oh RSR...so much you still have to learn. Kudos for getting this far on your own though.
Last edited by MudHippy; 10-27-2013 at 04:09 PM.
10-28-2013, 01:26 AM
#225
Registered User
Here's the supra swap thread that takes you through it w/ all of nashman's other mods (bone collector's comments are some of those I cut and pasted above too...):
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...n-take-183688/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...n-take-183688/
10-28-2013, 02:02 PM
#226
Registered User
Nope. All it took was one guy discussing amongst some fellow engine builders on how to improve the head gasket design of the 22R-E. An idea which also turned out to be just as applicable to the 3VZ-E(and later the 5VZ-FE). Then Toyota got word of it, and stole the idea. So they didn't actually have anything to do with changing the head gasket designs for either engine. And as far as using graphite instead of asbestos. That's pretty much a no-brainer(what else is there?). Not to mention the fact that it's REALLY all about the Slipperplate™(or lack thereof). And NOT AT ALL about the asbestos or the graphite(or whatever). The only reason for that change was due to human health concerns.
BTW, his name's Ted. He's also responsible for ENGNBLDR.com. And for supplying the O/S valves for this engine. Among other things.
Oh RSR...so much you still have to learn. Kudos for getting this far on your own though.
BTW, his name's Ted. He's also responsible for ENGNBLDR.com. And for supplying the O/S valves for this engine. Among other things.
Oh RSR...so much you still have to learn. Kudos for getting this far on your own though.
Guess it makes even more sense to use engine builder's products if/when the time comes to rebuild.
Last edited by RSR; 10-28-2013 at 02:04 PM.
06-24-2016, 01:08 PM
#228
This might be a old thread but I think it's worth bringing up.
I am on my second 3VZE truck. And my history with them has been pretty good.
1st truck I had in 2007. It was a 88 with 210,000 miles. I only had it for a few months but it wasn't a bad rig. 5 speed, 4.10 gears and 31s. When I sold her she was still running with no issues other then feeling underpowered.
Current truck is a 1995 with 240,000 miles 5 speed with 4.56 gears. We have the cylinder heads off and the bottom end is still in very good conditions with cross stitching still on the cylinder walls. More impressive is the heads. The only issue was excessive carbon build up on the valves and worn valve springs. The head gaskets looked good and the heads only took 0.006 to surface the head.
No question the 3VZE is lacking in the power and efficiency departments but the bottom ends are definitely tough and if you can keep the heads seated they can be very durable engines.
Gearing is also critical like any Toyota.
This is only my 2 cents
I am on my second 3VZE truck. And my history with them has been pretty good.
1st truck I had in 2007. It was a 88 with 210,000 miles. I only had it for a few months but it wasn't a bad rig. 5 speed, 4.10 gears and 31s. When I sold her she was still running with no issues other then feeling underpowered.
Current truck is a 1995 with 240,000 miles 5 speed with 4.56 gears. We have the cylinder heads off and the bottom end is still in very good conditions with cross stitching still on the cylinder walls. More impressive is the heads. The only issue was excessive carbon build up on the valves and worn valve springs. The head gaskets looked good and the heads only took 0.006 to surface the head.
No question the 3VZE is lacking in the power and efficiency departments but the bottom ends are definitely tough and if you can keep the heads seated they can be very durable engines.
Gearing is also critical like any Toyota.
This is only my 2 cents
07-30-2018, 07:58 PM
#229
Registered User
Hello all, my 3.0 just blew a head gasket but this time I was cylinder #1. I am buying new heads and using MLS gasket and having the block machined. Also installing headers to eliminate the crap cross over pipe. Hope it last.
07-31-2018, 06:50 AM
#230
Registered User
I think it's funny how periodically this thread floats back up with the same kind of "my 3VZ-E blew a head gasket" replies. You know, because it's not a bad motor...
The KA24DE was a car engine that had no business in a truck.
I didn't own a Nissan when this thread was fresh, but I have owned a 2000 Frontier/KA24DE/5-speed since then and never will again. It made okay power and didn't have any mechanical issues while I had it, but holy crap it was the worst truck engine I've driven. It had absolutely nothing below 3500rpm, then like a light switch it was on at 3600 and then gone wheezy by 5000. I would (really had to) wring it's neck everywhere I went. My 2RZ-FE feels like a healthy V6 by comparison. Even a 22R-E does. The rest of the Frontier's chassis was an antiquated POS too, but that's even further off-topic.
I'm not sure if any of you are familiar with Nissan, but I myself grew up with them. I have worked on them all my life and still own 2 (Xterra and 240sx). Both of these cars boast a KA24DE (240sx is a KA24DET) considered to be one of the worst truck engines of the 90's (back then).
I didn't own a Nissan when this thread was fresh, but I have owned a 2000 Frontier/KA24DE/5-speed since then and never will again. It made okay power and didn't have any mechanical issues while I had it, but holy crap it was the worst truck engine I've driven. It had absolutely nothing below 3500rpm, then like a light switch it was on at 3600 and then gone wheezy by 5000. I would (really had to) wring it's neck everywhere I went. My 2RZ-FE feels like a healthy V6 by comparison. Even a 22R-E does. The rest of the Frontier's chassis was an antiquated POS too, but that's even further off-topic.
06-05-2019, 11:29 AM
#232
Registered User
I really don't understand why you would do this, particularly on a stock or lightly modified engine.
I don't think this mod would result in the horsepower gains you were hoping for.
The machined aluminum is beautiful though.
I don't think this mod would result in the horsepower gains you were hoping for.
The machined aluminum is beautiful though.
06-05-2019, 12:20 PM
#233
Registered User
Agreed on a stock or lightly modified 3vze dont think one would see much improvement. Would probably be equivalent to using one of the supra vafm's. What i am curious about is what MAF meter was actually used, how was it calibrated, and how was it tied into the ecu or was a different ecu used. From what im seeing the guys beautiful alumnium piece is just an adapter. MAF meters are sooo much more adaptable when it comes to heavy modifications. The 89 thru 96 mustangs were an excellent example of how well they could work in heavily modified applications.
06-24-2019, 06:01 PM
#234
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Agreed on a stock or lightly modified 3vze dont think one would see much improvement. Would probably be equivalent to using one of the supra vafm's. What i am curious about is what MAF meter was actually used, how was it calibrated, and how was it tied into the ecu or was a different ecu used. From what im seeing the guys beautiful alumnium piece is just an adapter. MAF meters are sooo much more adaptable when it comes to heavy modifications. The 89 thru 96 mustangs were an excellent example of how well they could work in heavily modified applications.
I own two 3vz-e A/T's and its depressing that (IMO) the best Pickups and Runners Toyota ever made are stuck with the "little engine that soooooo wanted to". C.A.R.B regulations make it near impossible to mod these legally and just as expensive as a 3.4 swap.
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