cbr600rx7

About 8 of them are 3.4s . I can't tell you how many hours I have in those heads. I should have just dropped the money on new +1 MM valves but it is what it is and I am already over budget on this project so it wasn't in the cards,

you may notice the rear timing cover is not installed behind the cams. That's because I was just test fitting the timing belt to make sure every thing was where it should be. The new belt tensioner should be here today so we might be able to get her cranking very soon.

Andy A

Yep, is what it is, can definitely understand!!!!!!

I finally ordered up my shims this morning, went ahead and got 12 as some of them were pretty messed up. Hoping and praying I measured right.

coopster

Well I found two. Why I had threaded them onto a bracket I sure don't recall. Anyway, got 'em put on. Mucho grasses.

coopster

Ugggh. Mr Andy you give me pause. You all absolutely think its worth getting all new shims? I've yet to do anything with my clearances yet. I've decided I'm NOT going to pull heads off and grind valve stems; too much effort.

I did find a set of 12 (in baggies marked from which lobe on which cam they're from too!), biggest problem is I've no idea which of the cam shafts got reassembled all those many moons ago, and I'm probably more likely to hit the lotto than luck out that a given shim is with the 'original' wear cam lobe. So I'm thinking after I get the tools, and get back from my next work rotation, I'll pull the ones I'm not happy with, see what shims are in those, and compare with the 12 I've got out and measured. Essentially, I'll be making it work with used shims.

Between time and budget and life, I've wasted another week with no real progress. Plus, have to man-up and decide what to do with the tranny. Although I am thinking of getting a rebuilt with warranty of 12k. (r150). since I never could figure out why the levers interferred with each other, thinking thats better anyway, A rebuild kit looks like its on the order of 300 bux.
I digress.

Thoughts on my plan?

cbr600rx7

Torque on those end bolts is somthing like 30ft-lbs with engine oil being the recommended lube.

I hit a small snag today. Set up the timing and noticed the belt was very tight on the drivers side. Released the tensioner pin and rotated the assembly three times and sure enough it moved one tooth. So I guess I will reset the belt and try again tonight if I get lucky.

Dont feel bad on your shim issues. I think I have had my heads apart at least 6 times per head to get them all with in spec.

cbr600rx7

I do need to figure out what the torque spec is for the fuel rail bolts.

Check compression and we are 150-165 psi from lowest to highest cylinder. That's a lot better then 75-185.

making slow progress but soon.

cbr600rx7

I need to prime and test the fuel system. As long as the injectors and Air flow meter are hooked up I assume I should be able to get pressure to the injectors.

scope103

http://web.archive.org/web/201208130...68cylinder.pdf

You're doing all this work without a manual? Uh ....

DON'T forget that you MUST use all new crush washers on each pressurized fuel connection you opened. Would you like to get a nice gasoline leak under the plenum where you will never see it?

You don't need to "prime" anything. You could have nothing but air from the fuel tank on, and the fuel pump would just take a few seconds to push it all through the FPR.

Assuming you're testing the fuel system for leaks (excellent idea!), you don't need the VAF connected. You run the pump by jumpering FP to B+ (w/key-on). DON'T forget to connect the fuel return from the FPR back to the fuel return hose (passenger side, close to firewall -- you disconnected it from the group of tubes under the plenum). I recommend using clear vinyl 1/4" (uh, 6mm) so you can see the fuel flowing. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52330847 Let me know if you also see small bubbles in that tube.

cbr600rx7

Negitive I have been looking up torque specs and torque patterns as I need to as well as refrincing the FSM. However I was having a hard time pin pointing the torque specs for the fuel rail.

And yes only testing for leaks so priming might not have been the correct word. I replaced all of the crush washers and the two smaller ones for the cold start injector. I also took a little time to clean that injector and replaced all gaskets and seals.

Thanks for the info on jumping the fuel pump. I definitely want to check for leaks prior to putting the hole manifold and vacuum lines back on.

scope103

Tightening the banjo bolts onto new crush washers is a little surprising. You'll get them nice and snug, and you might expect them to hit 25 ft-lbs in another few degrees of the wrench. But it will take like another whole turn, as the crush washers .... crush. Just carefully sneak up on the correct torque like you would with any other connector.

cbr600rx7

coopster

What??! No bling paint on the plenum?? (Meaning silver letters outlined in red). Straight black looks pretty good!

cbr600rx7

Looks like I have a small crack in the return line off of the fuel pressure regulator. No big deal.

Finishing up hooking up the intake and down pipe and it's time.

Fingures crossed.

scope103

That's a low-pressure line, so you might be able to get away with crossing your fingers. But it IS gasoline you're dealing with.

I assume you're referring to the rubber hose. It's a molded hose 23273-65010; you can't replace it with "straight" line because that will kink. But the replacement isn't that expensive:
http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/TO...327365010.html

cbr600rx7

Thanks for the link.

It did start and we ran it for about 20 seconds but was running rich and has a nasty exhaust leak at the drivers side cross over pipe. I did just check timing real fast to make sure it wasn't somthing crazy and with the wires jumped and about 1100 rpms it was showing very close to 10 degrees. Of course it will need to be adjusted the correct way but I was happy to see it wasn't a full tooth off or somthing crazy.

cbr600rx7

Fingured out the rich running condition. Turns out I had the fuel return line hooked to the intake manifold..... Yeah that's what happens when you go stupid.

Any way so now it will crank and start for about 1 second and die. I think it might be somthing with the anti theft and remote start from the old owner. It was installed very sloppy and some of the wires are burnt and damaged.

cbr600rx7

And if you are wondering why if started before my guess is it was pulling enough fuel into the intake port to sort of run and the ECU was able to compensate just enough to make it sort of idle. The fact that it starts for a just a second and then shuts down makes me think the fuel pump is shutting off.

cbr600rx7

It starts and then dies. Almost like the fuel or spark is being shut off. I have no explanation for it....

cbr600rx7

Might have found a issue. The EGR filter valve that sits on the front of the manifold wasn't bolted down. The hole goes into the manifold so that's a massive vacuum leak. We will try again tomorrow when the kids are not sleeping and keep our fingures crossed.

cbr600rx7

So I added a bolt to the hole in the intake manifold and still no luck and have another issue.

Issue 1 the truck will start for a second and then just die as if the fuel or ignition is being turned off. As soon as I turn the key again it will fire right back up and do the same thing. If I try to push the gas pedal it will sputter but still die.

Issue 2. The starter now doesn't want to disengage. It just wants to keep cranking even with the key removed? WTF is going on with this truck.