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Old 01-29-2009, 06:28 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Looking good. Id like to see how this works without a body-lift if you can.
Also do yourself a favor goto the junkyard find a wrecked 90-95 toyota v6 truck or 4 runner.
Get the v6 master brake cylinder and clutch cylinder.
Your brakes and clutch will feel so much better after you put it in. I just did it to my 4 runner.
The v6 master brake cylinder has bigger bore so more braking psi so you have better brakes.
Actually the v6 clutch master cylinder had a bigger bore too.
My brake master was leaking into the booster cylinder likely with the age of your truck it is too.
My clutch master cylinder seals were leaking too into my cab every month or so the thing was empty.
The other plus is they are made of aluminum so they much more blingy compared to the factory rusty ones that came on it stock....
Also another thing if you can change out your differentials too.
If you find a 90-95 4 runner or truck look at the vin plate down on the drivers side inner door sill.

Most standard 90-95 v6 trucks or 4 runners came with 4.56 gears which the axle code on it would be g254.
The automatic v6's came with with usually 4.56 or 4.88's so the code for 4.88's would be g144.
The differentials will drop right in and likely you have 4.11's in your truck(which are fine if you plan on running just stock tires).

Pre 89 automatics usually had 4.30's in it but it's not always the case it depends on the factory tire size.

Just something to look for if you decide to re-gear on the cheap.
Plus 4.56's or 4.88 and a v6 3rd would be a lot better with the power of a 7mge motor.
33's or even 35's would do really well with that.

Also you can go here to find out how to decode your vin: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml


Over all I do like this project a lot.

Love to see that thing rolling on 33's with no lift or a small body-lift it's very doable.
I run 35's with just a 2" body-lift and some trimming.
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Soild front axle, 35x12.5 BFG KM2's, winch, blah blah blah.... http://www.yotatech.com/f116/my-new-red-snappah-152938/
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:02 AM   #52 (permalink)
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LOoking good man, I think you can use a Land Cruiser master brake cylinder as well and it is a bit bigger that the V6 master cyl. What are you going to use for the high pressure power steering line?
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Old 01-29-2009, 07:11 AM   #53 (permalink)
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True I had a FJ80 master on my 82 truck and ifs v6 front brake calipers . It worked fairly well too.
I was thinking on the cheap that's why I got mine from the junkyard instead of a new one. Finding a fj80 in the scrapyard is rare but yeah if you can find one get the master out of it.
I paid quite a bit for the fj80 master cylinder from marlin.
I think I paid less than $10 for the v6 master I got from the junkyard.
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:40 AM   #54 (permalink)
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I've actually gotten lucky enough to find 2 FJ 80's at the local junkyard recently. I want to say one form a MK3 supra will work as well, but just can't remember for sure.


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True I had a FJ80 master on my 82 truck and ifs v6 front brake calipers . It worked fairly well too.
I was thinking on the cheap that's why I got mine from the junkyard instead of a new one. Finding a fj80 in the scrapyard is rare but yeah if you can find one get the master out of it.
I paid quite a bit for the fj80 master cylinder from marlin.
I think I paid less than $10 for the v6 master I got from the junkyard.

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Old 01-29-2009, 11:52 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Well a mk3 supra master would be decent if you were doing a rear disk brake swap too.
Anyways back to the 7mge swap so we can let this guy have his thread back....
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:16 PM   #56 (permalink)
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hahahaha, no guys' it's fine. when you ramble i wont have to search for that info LOL

i have mk3 supra parts out the ass. so i might try a supra master and clutch master first, but right now starting the truck is still first agenda.



im saving up for a set of 35x12.50 15's bfg km2's, but right now i have 2 33x1250's that are 70% or better tread, and two that are just gettin me by.(25-35%)

as for the gear's, im going to go a season with the 4.11's i may still try to add atleast a mk3 lsd into the rear.



i do not want to pay for a body lift or any suspension lift. so my plan's are to make them if i need them.
right now i think if i make some shackles and bj spacer's i should be golden for the mean while.maybe tighten the torsen bars a bit, just so i know im right i tighten the torsen bar's with an 19/22mm under the cab? which direction tighten's the torsen bars?
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:24 PM   #57 (permalink)
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hahahaha, no guys' it's fine. when you ramble i wont have to search for that info LOL

i have mk3 supra parts out the ass. so i might try a supra master and clutch master first, but right now starting the truck is still first agenda.



im saving up for a set of 35x12.50 15's bfg km2's, but right now i have 2 33x1250's that are 70% or better tread, and two that are just gettin me by.(25-35%)

as for the gear's, im going to go a season with the 4.11's i may still try to add atleast a mk3 lsd into the rear.



i do not want to pay for a body lift or any suspension lift. so my plan's are to make them if i need them.
right now i think if i make some shackles and bj spacer's i should be golden for the mean while.maybe tighten the torsen bars a bit, just so i know im right i tighten the torsen bar's with an 19/22mm under the cab? which direction tighten's the torsen bars?
DO NOT touch the torsion bars if you put in ball joint spacers. Clockwise tightens them but I wouldn't do it unless you absolutely have to....
Only because you need to have it on a flat surface crank both of them equally and you have to measure the distance between the ground and the frame. It's a PITA unless your patient.

Better yet throw a LSD in the front ifs diff too.

I got my 4.56 differentials for free only because I parted out a guy's 4 runner for him and that was my payment for doing so.
It's really easy to change them out front and back will take less than 2 hours with a lift.
I guess 4.11's are ok for now.
If your going that far to throw a LSD in re-gearing would only be a extra step all that I am saying.

Also if you plan on doing a rear disk conversion there's a guy on www.pirate4x4.com who sells brackets using 79-85 toyota truck front calipers.
So having the supra master it's already porportioned for rear disks and would go nicely with it.
If you went that route too.
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Old 01-29-2009, 04:43 PM   #58 (permalink)
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well if i find some shorter gears for a good deal before i tear it apart i;ll probally do it. though i dont mind tearing into them at a later date either...

but the rad does fit!





still have to finsih taching the mounts in and bracing them up.







this last one needs some bracing it's the drivers side.



hood closes with the rad in too. no cap though hope it doesn't make a difference i mounted it low i think.

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Old 01-29-2009, 04:45 PM   #59 (permalink)
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oh yeah, just in case every one is wondering, the rad was a new mk3 unit that was installed on a car that got a new jdm motor that came with a rusty bhg as soon as it get's set up it's coming back apart for a rad flush.maybe i'll flush the rad out tomorrow.
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:28 PM   #60 (permalink)
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It's looking good man, I was planning on just using the 22re stock radiator on mine, but it looks like the 7m radiator fits in there pretty nicely, I might have to give that a shot.
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Old 01-29-2009, 09:36 PM   #61 (permalink)
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here's my rides. an 87 toyota 4x4 and an 85 supra, i also have an 87 supra.





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Old 01-30-2009, 02:01 AM   #62 (permalink)
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hey guys.figured there's enough of you guys watching now i could ask a couple questions..

this plug here i had a question about. it was on the passenger side, down low connected to what i would say was the reverse lights. the other half isn't connected to any thing. the white plug.





i also found the starter selinoid trigger wire was attached to this harness.




i belive i found the old coil power wire, im going to attach this to the yellow c1 plug to give it power thats the (black /red wire from the green plug.)





i have the heater core hose's on now . and really hope i dont have to pull the engine back out, i used the truck through out fork and the supra t/o bearing.








also found one of the old heater core hose's, i was able to mod to fit the idle speed control vavle to throttle body.



also removed the old vaccume line that run's across the fire wall, and made a short bend from a section that fit's nicely on the supra motor.

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Old 01-30-2009, 07:18 AM   #63 (permalink)
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That's a sweet MKII man, I just finished a 1J swap into a MKIII. I'm almost positive that connector you are talking about goes to the transmission, is your harness for an auto tranny? I can look on my auto harness when I get home and double check it for you. Only think that might be important on it is the wire that you need to jump for the NSW.

Why do you have to splice the wire going into the coil? SHouldn't it just plug into your engine harness?

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Old 01-30-2009, 07:36 AM   #64 (permalink)
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The radiator mounts came out awesome fits right in there.
Looks like your almost ready for cranking that baby.
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Old 01-30-2009, 11:00 AM   #65 (permalink)
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nice ron, thats the next swap i am going to do. well after i install a tranny in my honda and get it sold, i have the swap already just need to extend the harness and wire it up. make motor mounts and exhaust.

the coil on the 7mge is powered through the harness, but the oil connector for the old coil has a power wire in it, that C1 should be able to use, it's a switched power already on a fuse, IIRC the wire on c1 i am wanting to hook it up to power's the injectors coil and idle speed controll motor.


yeah the rad is looking pretty promissing. still haven't finished the mount's for it. i spent most of yesterday doing the cheapest fixt on my supra, i had made custom wire's for the car 2 years ago and they started to "leak" the other day after a bad ran storm and just kept getting worse, so when my supra sounded like a subie, i grabbed some rtv and re-sealed the boots and coated 6 inches of the wire. :p miss went away.


i might get lucky and lift my truck and put the 33's on it today.
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Old 01-30-2009, 11:09 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I think you might need a body-lift after all.
A good tweak of the motor may knock off or damage one of the heater core lines. It looks pretty tight in there.
I think a 1" body-lift would do the trick most likely. They aren't that expensive less than $100 for one I think.
You can get one here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
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Old 01-30-2009, 11:34 AM   #67 (permalink)
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awesome build thus far, first time ive seen it. Keep up the great work man.

*subscribing*
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Old 01-30-2009, 12:17 PM   #68 (permalink)
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well if i can repostion the worm clamp's on the heater core i might do alright.

time will tell
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:38 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Well I got my 22re pulled tonight, hopefully I will get the 7m mounted tomorrow. I looked and I don't think there is any way to use the supra power steering line because it doesn't go into the rack anywere near where it does on the 4runner. I think I've heard of a few people reusing the stock 4runner line and rebending it. You found a solution yet?
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:29 PM   #70 (permalink)
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i was going to wait till i got paid to worry about that. :p


im going to take the line off and bring it to my hydrualic shop in town, and have it made from a stainless steel braided line.
it's a funny fitting though, like 13mm x1.50 or some thing. most toyota is 1.25 treads per inch, and it's hard to find the correct fitting but it is made.

it is important to make sure what ever you have made is good for atleast 2000psi, most power steering unit's will make 1500psi when at full lock, or the tire is bound.

i figured the p/s line will cost me between 35-70 bucks.
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:41 PM   #71 (permalink)
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so i changed out my tires. i didn't measure the ground clearence i was gaining but i figured it was atleast 2.5 inch's under the diff's.


here's the stock tire height





average height of 33's.










The white rim is my spare, i will run it untill i find a good 33 to replace the other junker i have, figured i'll save on mounting and balencing.









i put my two good tire's in the rear so if the truck has an alignment problem or i add spacer to the balljoints i can just align it my self and not worry about horrible wear.


here's the clearence behind the front wheels.



i might have to clearence the fenders some if i leave it this height. i'll see soon though.
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:44 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Add mud and sawzall fenders as needed. Looks ready to go!
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:55 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Add mud and sawzall fenders as needed. Looks ready to go!

thats soo how im feeling

we've had some new rain here and the elevation has been low enough for the foot hills of the cascade to get good snow, so wheeling can be an every day thing here not just a weekend camp out any more ! lLOL

STILL A LIST OF THINGS TO DO THOUGH!

so far this is what i can think of, well after a 6pack.

- upper rad hose.
- correctly time the dist
- double check all bellhousing bolts
- finished welding rad mounts in, so far they look to be in good postion so long as i dont get in a wreck.....
- weld supports and braces for front end to help protect rad....
- solder my harness into the exsisting wiring in the truck.
- drop the tank and add efi fuel pump
- make an exhaust.
- install LSD's
- bj spacers?
- extended shackles.
- detail write up of how to install supra seat's into Supra Truck.
- also my passenger wheel locker one dissengage.

... oh yeah ..almost forgot.

-fix bhg if motor shows signs.



this motor was free....

to me, it was worth the drive for, crank and rods alone, but i left the motor together. not needing it atm.

more and more supra related stuff went on, and i decided i might just sell the engine...
after looking with new 4x4 pick up's with my friend, i decided i should invest in one, and i had a perfect motor for a project truck.,

i swaped oil pump's and pans with a 5mge which give the 7mge supra motor a front sump pan, which seems to make motor swaps into earilier modles easier.

while in the bottom end i quickly felt the rod's for excesive tolorence, and none was felt by hand.

so yeah there could be error, but i feel i have a good bottom end.
still doesn't matter since i have other supra motor's on hand. and aqquiring them doesn't seem to be a problem.



well this brings me here....

i cant belive this. i only came in for the camera so i could take some pictures of the next harness i was making, and of the hub im taking off my truck. it's seized.....
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Old 01-31-2009, 06:03 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
detail write up of how to install supra seat's into Supra Truck.
lol I know what you mean I put MR2 seats in my 82 truck that was fun actually.

All I had to do was drill another hole on one side and use some washers to shim one side of it.



looks like u need about 3 more of those mt/r's and your golden.

Hey you should get some cheap lift shackles in the back.
Mine were the universal advance auto specials $15 I paid for them I think. I'll change them out for springs eventually.
That would give you a little room between the tire and the bed that's all I did in the back of mine.
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:26 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Look like your coming along nicely, I made some good progress today. Here is a pic of my engine bay as it sits right now. DO you know which fuel line is feed/return? I think feed is at the rear of the rail and return is at the front but I'm just not sure.
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