so im new here, and so is my truck! - Page 2

Belize Off Road Team · 01-23-2009, 09:31 AM

Quite the build up! can't wait to see the finished product.

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7m4x4dude · 01-24-2009, 02:00 AM

thanks guys!

found my mk3 rad out of old 87 dd i parked 2 year's ago, have a new engine (1jz w/ 2jz turbos ) for that car just haven't started the project.

so tomorrow morning, if i not ridding my friends new R6 around all morning, plan to mock up my rad, and heater core hoses hopoing to make some good progress.

Shawn6string · 01-24-2009, 06:38 AM

herei is how you can tell what gear you have
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=274535

934rnr · 01-26-2009, 04:45 PM

comon man it's been 2 days this is a cliff hanger.

ronnie4 · 01-26-2009, 07:48 PM

Looking good, hopefully I will get around to pulling my 22re this weekend. I'll use your good progress as motivation to go ahead and dig into my 7m swap.

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 12:53 AM

sorry guy's i've been waiting for some parts :p

i picked up a set of mixed match'ed 33's just to get the truck sittin up again.

also wrapped up my money i had for the truck in purchasing a new tranny for a 92 accord i pick up to flip. i've sat on this car now for 6-10 months while looking for a 5spd tranny , yeah so long i forgot how long. so when i found it instead of buying a new starter i needed bought a tranny... yeah stupid me.

i lucked out though, i have a few supra' buddies in town and i i managed to find a used starter that im picking up tomorrow for 20 bucks. i'll re-build it and install, or atleast clean it up so it's reliable. also need to measure for a new positive batterie cable, or re-locate the batterie, thats option two though.

i have also dove into the wiring, so far i have decided to leave the ecu in the engine bay, i figured 100-150 degree's shouldn't kill the ecu. i plan on building a box to install it into.
i have extended the wire's i need from b1 to about 3 feet long, so i can route them to power and ground easier.

i also have a fuel pump set up i was going to use in my 82 supra, that had an external pump, and i was switching it to intank.

im thinking i might attemp to switch the pump over to the truck's hanger , it's a walbro i bought off e-bay so should be more then enough to serv for the n/a motor. that and it would solve the issue i have of not having a fuel pump or money to spend on it at the moment.

i still need to get p/s line's made so i can use the 7m pump in the stock location. then i will bolt the stock truck resivor to the passenger fender.

i did find a supra radiator that i will fit in. i have tomorrow and the next day off from work and brought the truck back over from storage so after i pick up the starter in the morning' i'll get some good work done and post some new pictrues

forbiddenera · 01-27-2009, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7m4x4dude

my latest creation is a 85 mkii supra w/ a 7mgte making 425whp 405ftlbs it has the r154 and a welded 3.73 rear end.

wow, you're insane. how does the mkii feel with that much power to it?

mine's got like 170 and it's pretty nutty. i was thinking of taking it to 300 max. (5m though)

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 01:33 AM

well , after a 1/4 throttle in first she spins, half throttle in second, and depending on surface of road i spin in third under full throttle,

i have the car running 13.00 with a 2.3 sixty foot spinning drag radials.

it's a pretty fun car to drive around every day, i skrew with built evo's and sti's all the time, and i have messed' with a 911 turbo porche owner once on the freeway, 60-140 and he couldn't shake me. though the corner we entered he took at 110-120 and i only took at 90 or so.
other then that i drift the car when my budget allows me to take it to the track.

ronnie4 · 01-27-2009, 07:55 AM

I was planning on using the stock supra factory power steering lines, looks like it'll put the reservoir right where the fuse box is though. I'll let you know how that goes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7m4x4dude

sorry guy's i've been waiting for some parts :p

i picked up a set of mixed match'ed 33's just to get the truck sittin up again.

also wrapped up my money i had for the truck in purchasing a new tranny for a 92 accord i pick up to flip. i've sat on this car now for 6-10 months while looking for a 5spd tranny , yeah so long i forgot how long. so when i found it instead of buying a new starter i needed bought a tranny... yeah stupid me.

i lucked out though, i have a few supra' buddies in town and i i managed to find a used starter that im picking up tomorrow for 20 bucks. i'll re-build it and install, or atleast clean it up so it's reliable. also need to measure for a new positive batterie cable, or re-locate the batterie, thats option two though.

i have also dove into the wiring, so far i have decided to leave the ecu in the engine bay, i figured 100-150 degree's shouldn't kill the ecu. i plan on building a box to install it into.
i have extended the wire's i need from b1 to about 3 feet long, so i can route them to power and ground easier.

i also have a fuel pump set up i was going to use in my 82 supra, that had an external pump, and i was switching it to intank.

im thinking i might attemp to switch the pump over to the truck's hanger , it's a walbro i bought off e-bay so should be more then enough to serv for the n/a motor. that and it would solve the issue i have of not having a fuel pump or money to spend on it at the moment.

i still need to get p/s line's made so i can use the 7m pump in the stock location. then i will bolt the stock truck resivor to the passenger fender.

i did find a supra radiator that i will fit in. i have tomorrow and the next day off from work and brought the truck back over from storage so after i pick up the starter in the morning' i'll get some good work done and post some new pictrues

934rnr · 01-27-2009, 08:18 AM

Might be better to move the ecu to the glove box or side kick panel.
It's a truck eventually your gonna get ballzy and want to run it in the mud and water so the ecu would see more protection inside the cab.
My opinion. It's good to plan ahead IMHO.
I dunno if you plan on sealing the ecu box up I guess that should work alright too.

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 02:28 PM

yeah i wanted to seal the box up very well.

i just haven't wanted to jump under the dash and yank out any thing so i can drill a proper hole for the ecu harness, that and being able to remove the motor with out worring about the harness in the fire wall

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 06:19 PM

some of the key wiring plug's

ronnie4 · 01-27-2009, 06:32 PM

Are you using this writeup for the wiring?
http://www.supracharged.com/tech/wiring/index.shtml

I'm curious as what wires, if any, are different on the pre-89 truck harness.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7m4x4dude

some of the key wiring plug's

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 07:10 PM

yeah it looks as if thats the same write up.

im going to look up the wire's for the truck tonight and start tagging wire's i need.

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 07:26 PM

p/s pump installed still need to find the tightening bracket fot it though.

note: i was able to re-locate the truck resivor with one bolt to the passenger fender, i will make a mount to have it sit straight and rigid. also the stock truck feed pipe worked fine

also found im needing to do some cutting and fabing to get the rad in there just right, :p

yeah i've allready blown the needle's out.

but the two picture;s i took didn't come out for some reason.

ronnie4 · 01-27-2009, 07:54 PM

If you notice any differences in the wiring could you let me know? Are you going to use a power steering cooler? I know my 7m supra had one.

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 07:56 PM

yeah im goign to use a auto tranny cooler, yeah if i find difference i'll let you know

right off the bat i know the fuel pump is different since i do not have an fuel pump in the truck, i could wire it up with a relay and cor like oem for the 7mge

http://www.supracharged.com/tech/wir...ring_color.png

toyota4x4907 · 01-27-2009, 08:01 PM

Dual cooling fans??

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 08:42 PM

yeah they were fromt he a/c for the 89+ turbo supra' and it doesn't appear i will be able to use them. i have already removed them, and i am making bracket's to fit the bottom of the rad into, and still have cutting to help clearence & add air flow over the rad, there's enough clearence so i wont have to do major cutting.

7m4x4dude · 01-27-2009, 10:39 PM

here's some pictures of my harness for B1 connector is, just to remind you, i have a 87 engine harness.

1:The green wire is the ground wire from the ecu to the circuit opening relay on efi trucks, (as far as i know, my truck doesn't have one since it's carb'd from the factory; and the COR controls the fuel pump.)

2: yellow wire is for the fuel pump resister, it's from the ecu, and controlls the function of 6v fuel pump.
For my application, i will not need it. i choose to run my pump 12v's so pressure is more consistant.

3: the Black wire wrapped up with the two orange and black wire's. is for the starter, it came off the black and white stripped wire. it will tie into the st postion of the ignition.

4: the large and small black wire power the ecu, it is wise to power both, works well to combine them, i choose to do so at the fuse link i solder onto the two wire's. i made the wire's about 5-6 feet long so i can route them through the dash to the ignition switch along with the starter signal wire.

here you can see how i twisted the three wire's together for the two switched power supplie wire's for the ecu and the fuse holder. this basic twist method is a good way to solder your wire's together. the wire's are coated smoothly and while it's still hot yuo can tap the wire or flick it to remove access solder. you do not want the solder to form any tips or the wire to extrude. it can cause shorts, grounds; and grimlins.

first start to get the wire hot.from underneith.

Once wire is hot, add solder to the wire and place the heated wire onto the solder puddle.

Now, you will see the solder attract towards the heated wire if every thing is clean and hot enough. add new solder to the top of the wire. and from each side of the wire exposed, yes make it all silver. to much isn't to bad.

now the the wire is coated well, and the wire was hot enough to melt the solder it's best time to get the solder off, you can tap the wire of flick it, or even purchase a sucker to be able to remove most of the solder for removing the solder..

Dont forget to fit and install heat shrink to insulate the solder connection.

well i need to find my M1 connector....

7m4x4dude · 01-28-2009, 12:26 AM

started lower rad mounts.

7m4x4dude · 01-28-2009, 01:25 AM

here's m1

it has water temp(yellow/green), oil pressure(yellow/black),tach (black), and check engine light (grey)

934rnr · 01-28-2009, 06:31 AM

It makes me wonder on mine it's already fuel injected so wiring is gonna be a little different. However I wonder if I can use some of the components with 22re harness like the exisiting coil wiring etc and splice them into the 7mge harness.
I am good with mechanical things but unless electrical stuff is really simple I stay away from it.
That's the only thing that scares me from doing this conversion honestly.

7m4x4dude · 01-28-2009, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 934rnr

It makes me wonder on mine it's already fuel injected so wiring is gonna be a little different. However I wonder if I can use some of the components with 22re harness like the exisiting coil wiring etc and splice them into the 7mge harness.
I am good with mechanical things but unless electrical stuff is really simple I stay away from it.
That's the only thing that scares me from doing this conversion honestly.

having a efi rig already makes it alittle nicer.

you wont have to purchase a fuel pump, or engineer a way for it to fit into the tank, or run high pressure fuel line (100psi).will need to swap the pump for a new unit if you want peace of mind though.

yeah the old coil location is where to splice in for your coil power,tach.

7m4x4dude · 01-28-2009, 10:46 PM

well i got the starter installed today, ran some tempory clutch line made from the stock rubbler toyota flex line. i'll be having a SS line made.

also stopped by the store and purchased a small oil cooler that i'll be using for power steering. also purchased enough small line to finish the power steering return line, and also finish the heater core.

also made top mounts for the rad, on the body, and the lower mounts will be on the frame, should work fine till i decide to put a body lift on the truck.

in these pic's i've started to pound out the area on the passenger side, after i cut some of it out, i have welded the passenger side in just to test fit and im still test fitting....

this last picture show's how i routed the new 72 inch postive batterie cable behind the rad and towards the starter.

01-24-2009, 02:00 AM	#27 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	thanks guys! found my mk3 rad out of old 87 dd i parked 2 year's ago, have a new engine (1jz w/ 2jz turbos ) for that car just haven't started the project. so tomorrow morning, if i not ridding my friends new R6 around all morning, plan to mock up my rad, and heater core hoses hopoing to make some good progress. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-24-2009, 06:38 AM	#28 (permalink)
Shawn6string Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Alabama Posts: 203	herei is how you can tell what gear you have http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=274535 __________________ 88 4runner 3. don't know--- project 88 4runner 4 cyl auto - Bone stock Plus BFG 31/10/50 JACK'EM HIGH CAUSE FAT CHICKS CAN'T CLIMB Shawn

01-26-2009, 04:45 PM	#29 (permalink)
934rnr Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: S. Burlington, VT Posts: 1,240	comon man it's been 2 days this is a cliff hanger. __________________ 86 Toyota 4 runner Soild front axle, 35x12.5 BFG KM2's, winch, blah blah blah.... http://www.yotatech.com/f116/my-new-red-snappah-152938/ My cardomain page

01-27-2009, 12:53 AM	#31 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	sorry guy's i've been waiting for some parts :p i picked up a set of mixed match'ed 33's just to get the truck sittin up again. also wrapped up my money i had for the truck in purchasing a new tranny for a 92 accord i pick up to flip. i've sat on this car now for 6-10 months while looking for a 5spd tranny , yeah so long i forgot how long. so when i found it instead of buying a new starter i needed bought a tranny... yeah stupid me. i lucked out though, i have a few supra' buddies in town and i i managed to find a used starter that im picking up tomorrow for 20 bucks. i'll re-build it and install, or atleast clean it up so it's reliable. also need to measure for a new positive batterie cable, or re-locate the batterie, thats option two though. i have also dove into the wiring, so far i have decided to leave the ecu in the engine bay, i figured 100-150 degree's shouldn't kill the ecu. i plan on building a box to install it into. i have extended the wire's i need from b1 to about 3 feet long, so i can route them to power and ground easier. i also have a fuel pump set up i was going to use in my 82 supra, that had an external pump, and i was switching it to intank. im thinking i might attemp to switch the pump over to the truck's hanger , it's a walbro i bought off e-bay so should be more then enough to serv for the n/a motor. that and it would solve the issue i have of not having a fuel pump or money to spend on it at the moment. i still need to get p/s line's made so i can use the 7m pump in the stock location. then i will bolt the stock truck resivor to the passenger fender. i did find a supra radiator that i will fit in. i have tomorrow and the next day off from work and brought the truck back over from storage so after i pick up the starter in the morning' i'll get some good work done and post some new pictrues __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-27-2009, 01:33 AM	#33 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	well , after a 1/4 throttle in first she spins, half throttle in second, and depending on surface of road i spin in third under full throttle, i have the car running 13.00 with a 2.3 sixty foot spinning drag radials. it's a pretty fun car to drive around every day, i skrew with built evo's and sti's all the time, and i have messed' with a 911 turbo porche owner once on the freeway, 60-140 and he couldn't shake me. though the corner we entered he took at 110-120 and i only took at 90 or so. other then that i drift the car when my budget allows me to take it to the track. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-26-2009, 07:48 PM	#30 (permalink)
ronnie4 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 56	Looking good, hopefully I will get around to pulling my 22re this weekend. I'll use your good progress as motivation to go ahead and dig into my 7m swap.

01-27-2009, 08:18 AM	#35 (permalink)
934rnr Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: S. Burlington, VT Posts: 1,240	Might be better to move the ecu to the glove box or side kick panel. It's a truck eventually your gonna get ballzy and want to run it in the mud and water so the ecu would see more protection inside the cab. My opinion. It's good to plan ahead IMHO. I dunno if you plan on sealing the ecu box up I guess that should work alright too. __________________ 86 Toyota 4 runner Soild front axle, 35x12.5 BFG KM2's, winch, blah blah blah.... http://www.yotatech.com/f116/my-new-red-snappah-152938/ My cardomain page Last edited by 934rnr; 01-27-2009 at 08:26 AM.

01-27-2009, 02:28 PM	#36 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	yeah i wanted to seal the box up very well. i just haven't wanted to jump under the dash and yank out any thing so i can drill a proper hole for the ecu harness, that and being able to remove the motor with out worring about the harness in the fire wall __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-27-2009, 06:19 PM	#37 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	some of the key wiring plug's __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-27-2009, 07:10 PM	#39 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	yeah it looks as if thats the same write up. im going to look up the wire's for the truck tonight and start tagging wire's i need. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-27-2009, 07:26 PM	#40 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	p/s pump installed still need to find the tightening bracket fot it though. note: i was able to re-locate the truck resivor with one bolt to the passenger fender, i will make a mount to have it sit straight and rigid. also the stock truck feed pipe worked fine also found im needing to do some cutting and fabing to get the rad in there just right, :p yeah i've allready blown the needle's out. but the two picture;s i took didn't come out for some reason. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197 Last edited by 7m4x4dude; 01-27-2009 at 07:30 PM.

01-27-2009, 07:54 PM	#41 (permalink)
ronnie4 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 56	If you notice any differences in the wiring could you let me know? Are you going to use a power steering cooler? I know my 7m supra had one.

01-27-2009, 07:56 PM	#42 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	yeah im goign to use a auto tranny cooler, yeah if i find difference i'll let you know right off the bat i know the fuel pump is different since i do not have an fuel pump in the truck, i could wire it up with a relay and cor like oem for the 7mge http://www.supracharged.com/tech/wir...ring_color.png __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-27-2009, 08:01 PM	#43 (permalink)
toyota4x4907 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 2,334	Dual cooling fans?? __________________ '95 4runner\|22re\|5spd\|130K miles\|ISR\| 2" BL\| 31x10.5 \| CompuStar Auto-start\| two 170mm LightForce\|anti-sway bars removed f/r\|Warn manual hubs\|ADD bypassed\|Diff breather extensions\|XLPerformance muffler '88 4runner\|22re\|5spd\|206K miles\|Sold '93 single cab\|22re\|5spd\|150K miles\|Sold\| Pro IFS

01-27-2009, 08:42 PM	#44 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	yeah they were fromt he a/c for the 89+ turbo supra' and it doesn't appear i will be able to use them. i have already removed them, and i am making bracket's to fit the bottom of the rad into, and still have cutting to help clearence & add air flow over the rad, there's enough clearence so i wont have to do major cutting. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-27-2009, 10:39 PM	#45 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	here's some pictures of my harness for B1 connector is, just to remind you, i have a 87 engine harness. 1:The green wire is the ground wire from the ecu to the circuit opening relay on efi trucks, (as far as i know, my truck doesn't have one since it's carb'd from the factory; and the COR controls the fuel pump.) 2: yellow wire is for the fuel pump resister, it's from the ecu, and controlls the function of 6v fuel pump. For my application, i will not need it. i choose to run my pump 12v's so pressure is more consistant. 3: the Black wire wrapped up with the two orange and black wire's. is for the starter, it came off the black and white stripped wire. it will tie into the st postion of the ignition. 4: the large and small black wire power the ecu, it is wise to power both, works well to combine them, i choose to do so at the fuse link i solder onto the two wire's. i made the wire's about 5-6 feet long so i can route them through the dash to the ignition switch along with the starter signal wire. here you can see how i twisted the three wire's together for the two switched power supplie wire's for the ecu and the fuse holder. this basic twist method is a good way to solder your wire's together. the wire's are coated smoothly and while it's still hot yuo can tap the wire or flick it to remove access solder. you do not want the solder to form any tips or the wire to extrude. it can cause shorts, grounds; and grimlins. first start to get the wire hot.from underneith. Once wire is hot, add solder to the wire and place the heated wire onto the solder puddle. Now, you will see the solder attract towards the heated wire if every thing is clean and hot enough. add new solder to the top of the wire. and from each side of the wire exposed, yes make it all silver. to much isn't to bad. now the the wire is coated well, and the wire was hot enough to melt the solder it's best time to get the solder off, you can tap the wire of flick it, or even purchase a sucker to be able to remove most of the solder for removing the solder.. Dont forget to fit and install heat shrink to insulate the solder connection. well i need to find my M1 connector.... __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-28-2009, 12:26 AM	#46 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	started lower rad mounts. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-28-2009, 01:25 AM	#47 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	here's m1 it has water temp(yellow/green), oil pressure(yellow/black),tach (black), and check engine light (grey) __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

01-28-2009, 06:31 AM	#48 (permalink)
934rnr Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: S. Burlington, VT Posts: 1,240	It makes me wonder on mine it's already fuel injected so wiring is gonna be a little different. However I wonder if I can use some of the components with 22re harness like the exisiting coil wiring etc and splice them into the 7mge harness. I am good with mechanical things but unless electrical stuff is really simple I stay away from it. That's the only thing that scares me from doing this conversion honestly. __________________ 86 Toyota 4 runner Soild front axle, 35x12.5 BFG KM2's, winch, blah blah blah.... http://www.yotatech.com/f116/my-new-red-snappah-152938/ My cardomain page Last edited by 934rnr; 01-28-2009 at 06:41 AM.

01-28-2009, 10:46 PM	#50 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	well i got the starter installed today, ran some tempory clutch line made from the stock rubbler toyota flex line. i'll be having a SS line made. also stopped by the store and purchased a small oil cooler that i'll be using for power steering. also purchased enough small line to finish the power steering return line, and also finish the heater core. also made top mounts for the rad, on the body, and the lower mounts will be on the frame, should work fine till i decide to put a body lift on the truck. in these pic's i've started to pound out the area on the passenger side, after i cut some of it out, i have welded the passenger side in just to test fit and im still test fitting.... this last picture show's how i routed the new 72 inch postive batterie cable behind the rad and towards the starter. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197 Last edited by 7m4x4dude; 01-28-2009 at 10:48 PM.

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