Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys - I took lots of photos and will do a DIY once I'm done (and like the results). I've had the calipers from a 1995 4Runner for a while now (thanks, Gottadog), and have primed, painted them....and ordered 95 4Runner rotors and pads, as well as the 1" bore MC from Lowrange/Trailgear.

SO....after some frustrations today trying to figure out how to get the rotors off (first time working with these hubs and both my chilton and FSM were pretty worthless), I got everything installed, including the MC (that was the easy part!). I try to install the new pads and....shoot, they are too thick to sandwich in between the rotor and the (fully compressed) pistons in the calipers I even took the bleed screw off completely to see if that made a difference (no).

It's weird..I've done brake pads before and used a bar to compress the pistons back (with the bleed valve open) - no difference. The pistons give a little, and they seem like they are all the way compressed, but I still can't get the pads in there.

Am I doing something wrong?

I ordered parts at the store for a 94 T100/95 4runner - parts guy confirmed they were the same parts for either truck.

What gives???

SCToy

have an old set of pads? I usually use my old set of pads and some channel locks to squeeze the pistons back, that way you don't mar them. Looks like they could retract just a little bit more.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks SCToy! I have the pads I just took off, so I can try that tomorrow.

Just seemed strange that, with zero fluid in the calipers and bleeder off, they would not open more/stay. Will give it a shot tomorrow.

SCToy

does seem odd, I was working with a pair of seized calipers last weekend. Still not sure how to fix them.

Are you able to get fluid out of the bleeder if you hit the pedal? Make sure you have something between the cylinders so they don't fall out.

NickMiller

When I did mine I used a quick grip and with TONS of force finally got them to compress... Took quite a while to do both sides, but eventually they had compressed all the way and I could get the new pads in!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

The piston should go in more. Use a really big flat head to pry against the piston or unmount the caliper and use a small c-clamp to compress them into the bore.

87 4x4

i use old pads and a c clamp to compress piston

87 4x4

that way when the pads hit its maximum pison cmopression

TNRabbit

I agree with all above; those will compress a bit more to flush with the housing. Old pads work great for compressing with a clamp.

The V6 calipers are a TIGHT fit every time~

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone!

I have the old pads from the donor caliper so I'll try using those tonight, with a c Clamp, that cheapo caliper spreader tool thingie I have, and/or the compression tool NickMiller suggests above.

BBP - I used my 24" breaker bar to try and get some compression, but that was one piston at a time - think the other methods may offer more chances for success.

Will update later when I get to this, ideally tonight (I have 2 yards of gravel in my driveway I also need to deal with

Phil

bfunkchubb

Many people forget that the little rubber piston seals can be a BIG pain in the butt for the last little bit that needs to be retracted.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Bfunkchubb, can you expand on that? Or are you just echoing what everyone's already said?

bfunkchubb

The rubber seals are a compressible solid, but the tighter you squeeze it, the more its gonna fight you, also, lets say you get the pistons all nice and compressed and fully flush with the bores, if you set them down and go get some lunch its very possible that the rubber trys to expand again. so once you get them compressed, make sure you put those pads in right away.

If any of that made sense...

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Success! I took calipers off, removed pads, then used my breaker bar against the cylinders, with my weight on both ends...pushed them flush to make room. Everything is buttoned up...just need fluid and bleeding before road test!

Quick q.....does it matter which way the clips go on the pins? I put mine in so that the larger loop was at the top (hooked on the bottom pin, snapped the top part on the top pin)....

Phil

Pat8942

Funny when I did mine they went right in, I only used a screwdriver to push the pistons in and didn't have to use much force, IMO if you need to use a breaker bar and your body weight to push them in, then something ain't right.
I've probably replaced more 1000 pads and shoes in my 40 years of working as a mechanic and the only time a caliper piston won't go in without extreme force is because there is a problem, so you might end up with the calipers hanging up and not releasing completely.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

They weren't that hard to push in actually. I will report back on performance soon....just need fluid and bleeding.

Any feedback on clip positioning?

SCToy

Believe the spring goes on the bottom so it pushes the pads apart on the leading edge of the rotor.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks SCToy for the photo - that confirms I put mine in upside down!

SCToy

Or i did haha, spreading on the leading side made more sense to me anyways.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Well, if you haven't had any catastrophic brake failures since that photo, I think I'll follow your lead