Smoother ride ifs
#5
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iTrader: (-1)
Wikipedia
You can lower tire pressure. When I roll thru the village there are lots of side to side cracks in the highway, I know my tires are under thier max PSI when it doesn't feel like a skate board rolling over sidewalk cracks no bumpity bump means it's time to air up.
Philbert, replaced his 4" blocks with a zuk mod and seems to love it. His howto thread
Depending on you local salvage yard you can try out the no cut ZUK mod for under 25$ and a few hours time.
hey is that your caddy on it's side there in your avatar I really love that picture it just kind looks like dog that flopped over so you'd scratch it's belly
Drawbacks
Because an anti-roll bar connects wheels on the opposite sides of the vehicle together, the bar will transmit the force of one-wheel bumps to the opposite wheel. On rough or broken pavement, anti-roll bars can produce jarring, side-to-side body motions (a "waddling" sensation), which increase in severity with the diameter and stiffness of the sway bars. Excessive roll stiffness, typically achieved by configuring an anti-roll bar too aggressively, will cause the inside wheels to lift off the ground during very hard cornering. This can be used to advantage: many front wheel drive production cars will lift a rear wheel when cornering hard, in order to overload the other wheel on the axle, limiting understeer.
Because an anti-roll bar connects wheels on the opposite sides of the vehicle together, the bar will transmit the force of one-wheel bumps to the opposite wheel. On rough or broken pavement, anti-roll bars can produce jarring, side-to-side body motions (a "waddling" sensation), which increase in severity with the diameter and stiffness of the sway bars. Excessive roll stiffness, typically achieved by configuring an anti-roll bar too aggressively, will cause the inside wheels to lift off the ground during very hard cornering. This can be used to advantage: many front wheel drive production cars will lift a rear wheel when cornering hard, in order to overload the other wheel on the axle, limiting understeer.
Philbert, replaced his 4" blocks with a zuk mod and seems to love it. His howto thread
Depending on you local salvage yard you can try out the no cut ZUK mod for under 25$ and a few hours time.
hey is that your caddy on it's side there in your avatar I really love that picture it just kind looks like dog that flopped over so you'd scratch it's belly
#6
You're in Oregon too. Okay so if I take the sway bars off lower tire pressure and Zuk mod. It'll be smoother? No sway bars dangerous on corners?
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#10
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iTrader: (-1)
"Black magic coil springs" from ebay your local 4x shop or http://www.gearinstalls.com/coilnoweld.htm has some links
Personally I'd go with used springs, they already have take thier "set" and I'm on the "ramen noodle budget"
Personally I'd go with used springs, they already have take thier "set" and I'm on the "ramen noodle budget"
#11
Registered User
wouldnt stuffing coil springs inbetween his existing springs be hard to make 4 in. of lift to match the front? (over extension of the leaf pack?) jw ive only herd of the ZUK mod to fix the sagging rear of the early 90s leaf sprung 4Runners....im just curious
#12
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iTrader: (-1)
wouldnt stuffing coil springs inbetween his existing springs be hard to make 4 in. of lift to match the front? (over extension of the leaf pack?) jw ive only herd of the ZUK mod to fix the sagging rear of the early 90s leaf sprung 4Runners....im just curious
Nope not hard to make up, as mentioned in the thread I linked (aswell as others) he replaced four inch block lifts with coils. If you're buying new springs you can get them in various lengths and spring rates.
I'm going from memory here so forgive some possible errors in advance, nothing a good search with google "site:yotatech.com" won't find/fix.
For a stock height sag repair you want 100-125lb springs in a 10-12 inch length, and 12-14 inch springs for a lift replacement plus sag repair.
The ZUK mod works wonders on all the leaf spring trucks, cut and no-cut versions are easy except on the 2wd ones. The 2wd have the spring under the axel and require new spring perchs on top of the axel, so it's not a jack it up squeeze it in install, but it still works just as good.
#13
Registered User
well ill be a monkeys uncle! i had to read down to see pics of the block he had b4 the mod. a guy at work was talking about this and i see no reason for it since my friends truck isnt sagging lol ive read also u can get a higher spring rated pack for people whom carry lots of stuff ie camping and what have you. i started reading this thread bacause i removed my whole swaybar since my oe bushings where cracked and ozzing out the side of the end link bolts.
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
well ill be a monkeys uncle! i had to read down to see pics of the block he had b4 the mod. a guy at work was talking about this and i see no reason for it since my friends truck isnt sagging lol ive read also u can get a higher spring rated pack for people whom carry lots of stuff ie camping and what have you. i started reading this thread bacause i removed my whole swaybar since my oe bushings where cracked and ozzing out the side of the end link bolts.
It can be done to produce extra or no lift with a little bit of tweaking or calculating. Alter the weight directly on the leaf springs, change the ride characteristics, all sorts of fun stuff.
And it's soo' much cheaper than a new leaf pack, add a leaf, or rearching. I think even brand new coils and perchs cost less than those, salvaged ones even more money in your pocket
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