AW1090

Hey guys, it's been a good bit since I last posted here due to school, but here's the question. I've got a code 52 on the dash and as I've been reading it means the knock sensor cable or the sensor itself is bad. I've read through most of the threads and it seems like you have to pull the timing belt, air chamber, and fuel rails to get to the sensor. I've got basic skills as in replacing brake pads and changing oil/trans. fluid. Should I try and do this on my own or head to the shop and get someone to do it for me? I'd really like to do it on my own as I enjoy learning all of it and just feel great after getting it done, but I also don't want to screw anything up and lose a ton of cash as I'm a college student. I plan on replacing the timing belt and getting the injectors cleaned during this project......let me know what you think and if you've got any tips or tricks including things you think I should change or do please let me know......Thanks!

ozziesironmanoffroad

if you are gonna be right there anyway, might as well. but if you dont have to take all that off, then i wouldnt. how many miles or years are on your timing belt? just be glad you have the 3vze... its a non interference motor... the timing belt snaps, no harm to the engine. if my timing chain in my 22re were to snap, id have more problems than just the timing chain

AW1090

I've got right at 90k on this timing belt and I'm planning on replacing it.....what I'm worried about is not having the know how or experience to do all of this. I just don't want to get in there and screw something up even worse causing me to toss a ton of money at it to get it fixed. I didn't know if it snapped nothing would happen to the engine......I always assumed it would blow up if the belt snapped.

leebee

this should help you out:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf

get a friend to help you out, two sets of eyes reading the directions and double checking will help ensure you get it right. good time to replace the w/p, idler pulley etc, clean the rad and flush the cooling system. might as well do the plugs, cap & rotor, wires. youll be ready for the next 100k on the clock.

lee

seafarinman

My 1994 3.0 had 219,000 miles on it and I never had the timing belt changed since I bought it at 79,000 miles. I had an engine swap done with a 98 2RZ-FE 2.4- I decided not to waste any money on that crappy engine.

highridinyota

leebee has the idea .get a hepler and you should be able to tackle it yourself.its your call.if you can read you can do it.or if ya just want to be safe take it to the shop

AW1090

I really want to do it so I think I'm gonna try and tackle it myself....plan on replacing what I can while I can. It's not the best engine, but it's what I've got and can't afford to do a swap right now so I'm just dealing with it. Thanks for the help guys.....If there is anything else please let me know

Team420

When I did mine...instead of disconnecting everything from the upper plenum, I just disconnected what I needed to, to be able to carefully lay the plenum, and the rest of the wires, and vac lines, over the fender, it saves a lot of time, and you cant really misplace vac lines, if you dont remove them in the first place.
Also, remember to get extra banjo crush washers for the injector rails, I got tied up waiting for 2 days, because I didnt think about them till i dropped 1.
All in all, it's not too hard of a job, and you will become more familiar with your engine. Goodluck!!

*Edit*
Just remembered, Be carefull when removing the plenum, the tvv, or ttv...whatever valve, will break if you are not carefull, it can be repaired with a ballpoint pen and some superglue, if you do break it, just do a search for ttv, or tvv, and you will find the repair write-up.

AW1090

thanks for this advice....I was hoping there were a couple of little shortcuts

esoterik

When I changed my timing belt two years back the only things that stick out in my head are:

-compressing the belt tensioner. you will need to press the small hydraulic mechanism on it and hold it in with a pin until you get it back on the car. I took it to my friend's shop to get this done but I'm sure there is another way to get it compressed.
-getting the crankshaft pulley off. I used to traditional method of getting a large breaker bar and putting it against some bricks and cranking the engine (ONCE OR TWICE.)

Other than that it was an easy job.

Honestly though my timing belt had 70k on it and it looked fine still. Honestly wasn't worth my time changing it.

scuba

Sounds nice, but why not the 3rz ?

AW1090

I knew about the tensioner and I've got a press to compression the pin. I'm not sure how I'm gonna do the crankshaft pulley so we'll see......