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117k on a stock 22re want to do the timing chain for preventative measures. Should the head gasket be changed as well? I would do the water pump while its apart.

Whats a typical mechanic shop charge to change the timing chain?

Can it be done in a day at home?

Double or single row chain for stock? LC Engineering or engbldr? I know to get metal guides.

Paul H.

I always thought that timing chains generally don't need to be changed, manual gives no interval for chains. Head gasket should only be changed if it blows or your doing an overhaul.

langzaiguy

I asked a similar question before. As long as you don't experience any of the symptoms of a bad HG/timing chain, I don't think there's any sense in doing it. I have basic mechanical knowledge, and it took me a whole month of working on/off to replace the HG.

Theoretically, you could definately do both in a day provided you know what you're doing and you have all the parts. I had to take 5 or 6 trips to the dealership for really dumb misc parts.

I used engnbldr & dealer parts.

Oh yeah, the dealership gave me a quote of $1500 for the HG repair. I'm sure a timing chain job would be at least that. Go OEM on your H20 pump.

84sr5yoty

Yeah, replace the headgasket. It only adds a couple of more steps to the timing chain project. There are quite a few people who weren't so lucky changing the timing chain without pulling the head and ended up with a headgasket leak. Not worth the risk and wasted time.

I'd even go one step further and have the head checked out for straightness at a machine shop and maybe even replace the valve seals since time seems to takes a toll on them, not mileage. Use a Genuine Toyota headgasket and water pump only!!! Everything else, whether it is from engbldr or LCE, will work fine.

It varys greatly depending on your location. There is no definite answer.

Yeah, it can. But it would be best to schedule 2 consecutive days, like a weekend.

It depends on how your driving style is and what your intentions are. If you're just using it to go back and forth to work, on trips, and minor offroading, a single chain will suit you just fine. If you drive like a bat out of hell and are constantly redlining the engine though every gear, or you do some serious offroading where the engine is constantly held at high RPMs, then definitely go with the dual setup.

LC engineering's setup is better, but it will cost you some serious $$$, especially if you use their dual chain setup. Engbldrs setup will probably suit 90% of most people.

GOSHRED005

while we are on this topic, i hear a rattling sound coming from what i think is the timing chain. Is this because it is loose? It gets pretty bad when i pass 2k rpm, but it's still drivable and it seems like there isn't any power loss. So should i change it out or is there a way to tighten it without taking off the head? BTW i have an 88' 4Runner with the 22re. Thanks

EWAYota

I'd just purchase everything your looking at replacing from Engnbldr; hg kit, h2o pump & timing chain. Everything he sells is awesome. I've got the HG kit, cam, h2o and oil pump, plus timing chain with steel guide from him. You can order from his website or sometimes score a deal from him on ebay.

Order and pay for it on Monday, good chance you'll have it Wend or Thur.

jason191918

What about a timing belt? Should that be changed based on mileage or symptoms?

Spence1016

ive got 123k on my stock timing belt in my 3.4 and it still runs strong but i have noticed a loss of mileage, probably just needs a tune up tho

Paul H.

I've got 60K and 11 years on my current timing belt.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

if you don't pull the head, you might want to pull the oil pan.. chances are high that you will get a leak at the timing cover and head if you try and install it with out removing one or the other. me, i pull the oil pan and front diff.

Georgiadave

You can remove the valve cover and look at the guides as well as check the timing chain cover for scoring by the chain. Get a picture of the guides, so you know what you are looking for. You can tell if they are intact, or just nubs.

I agree with Tortis, pull the head or the pan to get a good seal on the timing chain cover. If you don't pull one or the other, there is not much clearance between the headgasket and pan to reinstall the timing chain cover, and leaks are possible.

You may be able to just loosen the pan without removing it to get an inch or so of clearance to manuver the timing chain cover back into place. You want a good seal against the head gasket and pan.

There is a website that describes replacement of the timing chain without removing the head, http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

Engnbldr is the man for parts. The LC chain kit is kind of pricey, do you think you will drive the truck over another 100K?

You are in the mileage range where the chain assembly needs replacement, however this is a big job, I would not do it unless the guides and chain are bad.

YotaJunky

I wouldn't pull the head to change the timing chain. Just drop the pan an inch instead.

I would change out the cover, chain, tensioner, water pump, and front oil pump seal. It would be a good idea to replace the plastic chain guides with a driver's side steel backed guide and another passenger's plastic guide.

Make sure you don't over torque the tensioner and keep track of where all the bolts go, as they are different lengths.

This is a one day job if you have done it before, and maybe 2 to 3 days if you haven't.

YotaJunky

It's probably rattling because the tensioner is on it's way out (or has failed) and/or the driver's side guide has been chewed up and the chain is slapping against the timing cover, which will eventually eat away at the cover and into a water jacket. You don't need to remove the head to get at the chain. Just remove the cover to get access to the chain, and drop the oil pan before reinstalling the cover.

maxpower_hd

When and if you do this job, behind the tensioner there is an oil supply hole to the tensioner. Make sure that is cleaned out thoroughly before installing the new one. I blew compressed air through mine and a bunch of gunk came out of it.

I would definitely not do it until it needs it. It is a pretty big job to do just for preventative maintenance. Inspect it as previously mentioned to see if the guides are worn or broken. If they aren't then I would keep running it.

rdlsz24

Belts are normally done according to mileage.

Rob

Matt16

117k on a stock 22re want to do the timing chain for preventative measures. Should the head gasket be changed as well? I would do the water pump while its apart. Change the head gasket. I didn't do anything with the water pump

Whats a typical mechanic shop charge to change the timing chain?
Dunno
Can it be done in a day at home?
I don't think you can do it in a day first time. It isn't very difficult, but there are alot of things to unbolt. Remember the TWO HIDDEN BOLTS. The bolt in the oil pool at the front of the head and the bolt that connects the intake to the head.
Double or single row chain for stock? LC Engineering or engbldr? I know to get metal guides.

GOSHRED005

thanks yotajunky

JJ'89

My $0.02...I got an '89 2wd with 22re engine, 150,000 miles. noticed this rattling sound at startup and fast idle. Read about the timing chain issue here. Kept driving it and keeping fingers crossed for another year. Got the factory service manual and a Haynes. Downloaded the how-to-do-its from links found here. Bought the parats at RockAuto-timing set, Engnbldr-cover, stealer-seals and gaskets.

Did it without removing the head or pan. Sure enought the driver side guides were broken-(some pieces still floating around in the pan). Cover was grooved on driver side about 3/16'' deep but not yet thru to water. Chain was pretty slack of course.

Only hassles was a couple fasteners (AC bracket and another one I forget) that were not easy to find. Was worried about loosening the crank snout bolt but it loosened easy with just trans in gaer and brake set/chocked. Managed not to damage the head or pan gaskets. I didn't replace the oil pump or use steel guides which I would do if doing it again.

Made two prick punch witness marks to reinstall distributor in same place.

One other problem was the two cover-to-pan screws at the front would not fit with the new cover. The holes just do not line up by a fraction. Left them out. But so far 7,000miles since no leaks and no more death rattle.

So sooner or later its got to be changed, but I would not disturb the head or pan gasket unless necessary. Good Luck.

jason191918

Thank you.

Jason

Jay351

T-belt should be done every 90,000km whatever that converts to miles. If your t-belt snaps it won't cause any damage ( on the 3.0 at least) unlike the 22re You will just need a tow home. Luckly mine broke at my house.