Set timing on 4runner that will not idle
08-22-2016, 09:05 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Set timing on 4runner that will not idle
So I have a 95 4runner 3.0 v6, that I need to get the timing set but cant get the truck to idle with out giving it gas. Is there a way to do this at a higher rpm? Also you have to give it gas to start as it is hard to start, so could I set timing with the engine just spinning over while cranking it, without it ever starting?
08-22-2016, 11:40 PM
#2
How did you arrive to this issue ??
Has this ever run correct ?
Just how are you giving it gas ?? Someone spraying into a vacuum hose while cranking ??
Stepping on the pedal only gives it more air
You can try moving the distributor to get things closer but I think you have more going on then just the timing being off .
Has this ever run correct ?
Just how are you giving it gas ?? Someone spraying into a vacuum hose while cranking ??
Stepping on the pedal only gives it more air
You can try moving the distributor to get things closer but I think you have more going on then just the timing being off .
08-24-2016, 06:43 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. Do not give the engine gas when starting. That is a Carb method and does not apply to Fuel injection.
2. The method to set timing: Jump the E1 and TE1 terminals which should result in the check engine light flashing. This is base timing mode. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the bolt holding the distributor in place (it is on the top right of the Dizzy). Use a Timing Gun (connected to the battery terminals and #1 Spark Wire lead). Set timing between 10-15* (use your preference 15 is most aggressive and 10 is the least). Everyone will have their own opinion on which is best for power/reliability.
3. IDLE - you need to check several sources. The first is the cooling system (the IACV uses coolant). Burp the system, fill both the radiator and the block. Fill the block from the top radiator hose by disconnecting it from the radiator and loosen the hose clamp at the motor. Turn the tube up and you have a nice fill point. Now pull the temp sensor and the temp sensor switch. I believe these are on the right hand side of the coolant manifold located at the rear of the engine. They require a long socket (17mm and 19mm). Replace these as they go bad and the cost is minimal $35 for both from just about every auto parts store. This should see your cooling system as it relates to idle in top condition.
Clean the throttle body. Pull the throttle body from the intake. It is four bolts and disconnecting the throttle cable(s) (if you have cruise control it will be two) along with a few vacuum hoses and cooling hoses. Clean the whole thing with Throttle Body Cleaner (can be found at any auto parts store) and a tooth brush. Get every passage with throttle body cleaner so that the fluid passes through consistently. Blow through the coolant passage to check for operation. If clogged you found your idle up issue. If not, clean with fresh water and keep going. Don't forget to check the hoses as well. They may be blocked. Also pull the idle adjustment screw it is on the top of the TB near the rear. The O-Ring on it can be found at NAPA for .50 cents, they will need to match it so bring the screw with you when you get it. Get a few extra.
Check the TPS - While the TB is off you should use a volt meter and check the TPS for proper resistance. I bet you will find at least 1 test out of spec (it will most likely be the IDL to E2 resistance that is incorrect). Adjust the TPS as necessary to get it in spec. Have a friend or help available as it is much faster/easier with 2 people. Here are the instructions: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...Adjustment.pdf
Check the Cold Start Injector. Pull the injector from the intake (2 bolts). Put the injector in a cup and have someone pulse the ignition. It should spray when the ignition is active only. Take this opportunity to clean the CSI while you have it out. The carbon build up on it can affect the spray pattern, making it less effective.
Check for vacuum or air leaks all around the motor and on the intake track.
These are the key areas to maintain. So doing all this work will benefit your motor even if it does not solve your idle issue. Do as thorough a job as you can cleaning. The TB/Intake operate much better when clean. Good luck, ask questions and post pictures if you need help on anything specific.
2. The method to set timing: Jump the E1 and TE1 terminals which should result in the check engine light flashing. This is base timing mode. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the bolt holding the distributor in place (it is on the top right of the Dizzy). Use a Timing Gun (connected to the battery terminals and #1 Spark Wire lead). Set timing between 10-15* (use your preference 15 is most aggressive and 10 is the least). Everyone will have their own opinion on which is best for power/reliability.
3. IDLE - you need to check several sources. The first is the cooling system (the IACV uses coolant). Burp the system, fill both the radiator and the block. Fill the block from the top radiator hose by disconnecting it from the radiator and loosen the hose clamp at the motor. Turn the tube up and you have a nice fill point. Now pull the temp sensor and the temp sensor switch. I believe these are on the right hand side of the coolant manifold located at the rear of the engine. They require a long socket (17mm and 19mm). Replace these as they go bad and the cost is minimal $35 for both from just about every auto parts store. This should see your cooling system as it relates to idle in top condition.
Clean the throttle body. Pull the throttle body from the intake. It is four bolts and disconnecting the throttle cable(s) (if you have cruise control it will be two) along with a few vacuum hoses and cooling hoses. Clean the whole thing with Throttle Body Cleaner (can be found at any auto parts store) and a tooth brush. Get every passage with throttle body cleaner so that the fluid passes through consistently. Blow through the coolant passage to check for operation. If clogged you found your idle up issue. If not, clean with fresh water and keep going. Don't forget to check the hoses as well. They may be blocked. Also pull the idle adjustment screw it is on the top of the TB near the rear. The O-Ring on it can be found at NAPA for .50 cents, they will need to match it so bring the screw with you when you get it. Get a few extra.
Check the TPS - While the TB is off you should use a volt meter and check the TPS for proper resistance. I bet you will find at least 1 test out of spec (it will most likely be the IDL to E2 resistance that is incorrect). Adjust the TPS as necessary to get it in spec. Have a friend or help available as it is much faster/easier with 2 people. Here are the instructions: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...Adjustment.pdf
Check the Cold Start Injector. Pull the injector from the intake (2 bolts). Put the injector in a cup and have someone pulse the ignition. It should spray when the ignition is active only. Take this opportunity to clean the CSI while you have it out. The carbon build up on it can affect the spray pattern, making it less effective.
Check for vacuum or air leaks all around the motor and on the intake track.
These are the key areas to maintain. So doing all this work will benefit your motor even if it does not solve your idle issue. Do as thorough a job as you can cleaning. The TB/Intake operate much better when clean. Good luck, ask questions and post pictures if you need help on anything specific.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sustainobile
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
6
10-05-2023 07:50 PM
