gottadog

iTrader: (3)

Well today I go check out an axle and top shift case. The truck had 18k on it when it was side swiped and totaled. These parts were in the garage, oils still clean with out a trace of moisture. I wasn't able to get a good pic of the axle but I will tomorrow, its in the back of my truck and I couldn't get anything decent. The Transmission case broke, the transfer case didn't shift at all when I got it. I noticed the four bolts were some what loose and kept my mouth shut. Got home pulled the bolts and I was right. It was just stabbed back in when reinstalled. The gears look brand new and shifts perfectly.

I'm not quite sure what year this came from but it was said that this guys grandfather had a 79-81 based on the interior and door parts I saw.

Managed to nab the axle and case for 100 bucks.

Brings me to a question or two. I noticed a difference on marlin's site about gears for the older cases and a different option for later case's. But on Trail Gear's site its just 79' thru 91' (if I remember correctly) is there really much of a difference? How can I tell?

The next thing is I have a w56c trans that I just recently swapped into my truck. Its a forward shift case. When I eventually grab all the parts to build a crawl box what is needed to be done when that front case becomes solely a reduction box. I know the the case will come apart and all. I'm only concerned with the shifting.

BigMike

Hello gottadog,

"axle"....... As in the complete front axle?? If so you totally scored!!

Remember the odometer of the round headlighted 1st gen trucks (1979-mid 1982) only recorded 5 digits, so it's likely to have had 118k or 218k or 318k......miles.

Based on your picture, this transfer case came from a 1979 or 1980 truck. The dead give-away is that the broken tail housing appears to be from a L43 4-speed transmission. Additionally, it has small diameter drive line bolts and a 2-wire 4WD light indicator plug. When you pull the broken tail housing off, you'll most likely find a 21-spline 4-speed style transfer case input that has a stepped spline design that was only used in conjunction with the L43 transmission.

Please keep in mind that Trail-Gear is a young company that does not have employees with Toyota Rock Crawling experience, and as a result have gathered most of their tech info from our website. I'm not sure where they may have gotten a 1991 date, but to promptly answer any and all of your wildest transfer case identification questions, please see our comprehensive Gear Drive Transfer Case Bible here: http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/tr...fer-case-bible

All you need to do is just find a 1989-95 forward shifting transfer case and use that as core parts to build your Crawl Box! Otherwise, if you have two top shifting t/cases, you can plug off the transfer case shift hole on the back of your W56-C transmission and then just run two top shifting cases behind it.

Sounds like a lot of fun!! Keep this thread updated with some more pics!!

Regards,
BigMike

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

Hey Mike thanks for the reply! Indeed I have the whole front axle. Ill check the case when I get home. I didn't knotice if the input is stepped. So you are saying if I've got this correct, that I can't use the case with my current forward shift case without using the parts from another frnt shift case? I know of a cheap forward shift case not too far away.

I love my truck. Looking forward to spending more money with you in the near future. I appreciate the info. On my phone currently but ill check out the link later at home. Thanks again.

BigMike

Hey, I'll give ya $150 for that front axle and that transfer case, right now, cash, money talks, how 'bout it? Just think, it'd be the quickest $50 you've ever made

Looking at that front axle, it's hub dial is painted blue with an unpainted hub cap, which was only available on 1979-1980 trucks with 20R engines. Also, it has a lower truss that does not extend all the way out to the knuckle ball, which was only used in 1980. I therefore conclude that the donor vehicle was a 1980 20R 4WD truck with a L43 transmission.

Negative. It will still be a 21-spline input, but the special L43 4-spd input design requires one of the following two considerations:
1) If used in the Crawl Box, then you must grind a slight amount of the splined step in order to fit this special L43 4-spd input into your W56's output coupler. This holds true when trying to insert this L43 4-spd input into any other 21-spline transmission other than a L43.
2) If used behind a Marlin Crawler dual case adapter, no modifications are required. This is because we designed our Chromoly coupler to accept any style 21-spline input including the special L43 4-spd t/case input.

I therefore advise you to use the L43 4-spd input in the rear case since we've incorporated this compatibility into our dual case kit. Moreover, I advise you to use this input in the rear case because the stepped spline design has a smaller engineer's fuse and is stronger than a standard 21-spline t/case input -- and it is best to place the strongest components as far downstream from the engine as possible. This is simply because torque is multiplied through each gear reduction and increases in value the closer it gets to the tires.

To summarize: Running the L43 4-spd style 21-spline transfer case input in the transfer case instead of the Crawl Box:
1) Requires no modifications to the input.
2) Utilizes the stronger input design where it's needed the most.

I do have a suggestion for why it may be a good idea to modify & place this input in the Crawl Box behind your W56 transmission, and this is if you have plans sometime down the road to run our 4.70:1 gear set in the transfer case or not. The reason for this is that our 4.70:1 gear kit features our Total-Spline input technology (which is the strongest input design in the world), and you'd be placing these gears in your transfer case. In this case, it would be nice to have the L43 type t/case input modified & installed behind your W56 since you'd be using our stronger 4.70:1 input in the t/case at a later date (ie. strongest components further downstream from the engine).

Your excitement is making me wanna go out and go wheeling this weekend!!

Regards,
BigMike

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

Thanks again Mike!

I appreciate the info. I'll end up doing exactly what you said. Get a hold of the dual adapter. Then later on (tax time) nab a 4.70 set.

EFI85

Dang dude im jealous im in the east bay myself it could have been me that scored that stuff lol !!! AWESOME FIND !!! and how cool is it that BIGMIKE is on here helping you decipher what you have and the best way to build it !!

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

Ya dude! The parts he still have are in great shape. You can tell the mileage was low when the truck met its maker. Said it was a year and a half old when it was hit. Shoot the doors I saw looked brand new after wiping the dust off. Another dude scored both complete doors/panels for 40 bucks. I'm waiting to hear back from him. He lives in Pacheco off Chilpancingo.

Anyway I'm looking at purchacing my marlin dual adapter mid/end June. Right around my Birthday so I won't get too much flack from the better half, hopefully. She's seen and helped me do quite a bit on this thing.

I was curious what was thought regarding drivelines. I know I'll have to extend the front and shorten the rear, but I also plan to do the sas. with the new suspension and I only want the 3", would it be worth doing after I get both ends of the truck on new leafs?

EFI85

I didnt realize you were doing a SAS . Im gonna tell you if your doing a SAS and duals you might as well go the whole way and do the 63'' chevy springs in the rear and the rears up front and the high Steer . In my half load opinion once you go dual cases and SAS theres no reason to stop there . Might as well go the whole distance who needs all that gearing with out enough flex and big enough tires .just my .02
1 SAS
2 dual cases
3 springs RUF /63'' chevys
4 high steer
5 lockers

EFI85

If you do need driveshaft work theres a place in albany that is really good . They arent the cheapest around but they are awesome . UNITED TRANSMISSION is the name

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Dario - nice score!!

I think your good karma with me and the calipers paid off for you

Looking forward to seeing what you do. If you need to borrow any tools let me know.

I got my beast back on the road again this week (had to remove and re seal the transmission a second time.

Good luck!

Phil

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

EFI85, where about's do you live? I'm in Walnut Creek. Regarding the SAS. I was looking at the various kits and the rear's as well. So if I'm to order a front kit and use rear springs, what rear kit would I need? I've seen some folks post about 1" higher in the rear.

Phil, I found a metal brake line from one of those calipers. Let me know if you want it and I'll bring it to work. Right on bout the truck man. Some work ya did! I recently did my auto/manual swap and at the same time pulled the dash and did the heater core while making it easier to install the pedal assembly. I'm real glad to be on this side of all that work, but ready for more!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Sweet Dario, yes id love to score that line. Anytime next week should work, just let me know via txt ok?

toyospearo

Nice!!!

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

Well I've spent the better part of the day looking up the TG sas kits and chevy spring info. So far I haven't come up with much regarding the height people are getting with the standard 2wd 1/2ton springs in the rear. My plan is 33"s and something along a 3" lift. I want to keep it road worthy and off road/trail ready. Not interested in hardcore crawling or anything that could damage the truck body-wise.

What have you guys seen with 63"s in the rear? How much lift? I'm not terribly sold on a TG kit since RUF is the way to go. Can I use the templates included to mark the frame for the longer rear springs?

I'm entering something new to me and that is the suspension, and by that I really like opinions. I'm a very skilled hands on person, with a lot of time and understanding with in how things work. I am just starting to get my feet wet with this stuff and its pretty cool.

rattlewagon

100 bones for both is a KILLER deal!

EFI85

Sorry I was outta town . I used to be in Concord but now I'm in rodeo . I think the RUF and 63's might give you a bit more lift them the 3 inches you want . I have to say though doing a sas and dual cases and stuff is kind of overkill for a mild wheeler . Thats the stuff you save for a hardcore wheeler . Its almost as if you would better off with a small lift and a mild locker on what you already have . Im sorry if I sound like a jerk im not trying to it seems tome like a lot of work for a mild wheeling street truck . I also wanna tell you I have a 3'' lift and 2'' extended shackles and I can clear 35's but they do rub off road and I really wish I would have went bigger with the lift . Six inches is what I should have done . Im not sure on the final heights of the RUF's and 63's but i do know that it takes a little messing around to get the height where you want it . Good luck with your build no matter what you decided I will be following along .

EFI85

I think the reason you cant get a straight answer on the RUF and 63's is because there is because there is so many different options for the 63's depending on the the donor truck . ex cab crew cab 4x4 2wd there's a lot of variables .

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Holy Crapoli..... Mike turned this into a "SCRIBEDEDED" thread for me, indeed! lol.

Hey OP, great find and best wishes, man!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Dario - let me know when is a good night to pick up the brake line in Dublin after work?

Phil