ffryno13

ok so i am done with my SAS in 89 std cab short bed 22re i have 5" marlin springs on 35s i still have the stock gears. i want to do dual T's but i don t know if the chain drive was an option on my truck and i don t feel like tearing it apart to find out.

its a base model truck 5 speed bench seat. no rear slider or A/C. power steering is the only thing power about it right now.

i am also having trouble deciding on 4.88s or 5.29s i do drive the highway alot but i live in town now so i don t know what to do.( anyone know where to get a speedo calibrator?

my order for more power was just sent to LCE i got the header, intake, cam, and bigger throttle body.

anything you guys can help me with would be awesome i need to get back on the trail.

sas'd22re

35"+ size tires and you'll want 5.29's for sure. it puts your back to "stock power"

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Regear and lockers at the same time to save labor involved.

5.29s with 35s or bigger, but I have 4.88s with 39.5 Iroks and it is fine for a trail rig

You are going to have to do d-shaft work anyway after your SAS so why not do duals now and d-shaft work once?

Sliders, armor, winch

All kinds of ways to spend your money.

What have you done besides the SAS? Rear lift? Longfields? Some more details would be helpful.

And pics...or it didn't happen.

myyota

Your truck has a gear driven transfer case, as for gears, its really up to you, im running 37'' tires and 4.88 gears on my 86 4Runner.

deez4wdsparechange

u don't have a chain driven t case count the bolts on the back
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/08-1737c-600.jpg
this is what a gear t case looks like and u will want to go with 5.29's it really makes a difference

crolison

your gear driven.

5.29's, and either duals, or 4.7 single case.

ffryno13

right on ok i am ordering my dual T's stuff right now then.

sorry i don t have my camera with me right now i am at a school for the army in FT. lewis Wa. it sucks we drive POS humvees all day and get stuck and they can't climb anything.

wabbit: its 5" all around all spring lift, high steer, stock 5 speed with 2nd gear sencro going out.

can i bolt a r150 5 speed v6 trans and still run my gear T-cases

ffryno13

ok i just ordered my adpt. plate kit, crossmember, extended speedo cable, and twin stick T-case shifter.

i already have my bucket seats sitting at the house calling my name. i ve been planning this for awhile.

i also found a 88 v6 trans (good?-bad?)

oh and my truck has 135k orig miles

xzyragon

they're POS humvees that weigh a load but will prove their worth when ur getting fired at. Ive talked with some navy guys who drive humvees... 2" thick steel plating all around, like 2-3" thick bullet proof glass, and enough room in the back for a crapload of redbull and a large stereo. Just dont go serious offroading in em

ffryno13

oh i know the ones over seas stop bullets trust me. how ever those also are complete different motors. and there is no room in there however we did manage to wire an ipod in to our radio. nothing like rollen thru downtown bahgdad blasting slipknot

ffryno13

truck:
89 standard cab
short bed
22re
5 speed 4x4
base model

suspension/drivetrain:
SAS
5" spring front and back
U-bolt flip
35" toyo s
HI steer

in process mods:
dual T's (ordered)
5.29 gears
detriot lockers front and rear (not decided yet if i want LSD)
bucket racing seats (in the garage)
LCE: cam, header, throttle body big bore/ TB spacer, intake(ordered)
Electric fan (ordered)
new exhaust header back
bobbed bed

i hope this can help you, help me. this is my DD

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

I can help you out if you are looking for a professional 529 gear install. So many horror stories out there about gear shops that screw up the gears.

PS---I agree on the 529 ratio for that tire.
ZUK

jimep

the dual cases u'll need for the rear case an 84 or 85 top loading shifter and fork at least, a 23 spline turbo t-case input shaft would be nice but not necessary since you're keeping everything relatively mild. a custom crossmember to clear the front driveshaft. I just notched plated and gusseted my factory one for now. I built my own driveshafts. you'll need the non tapered style found in most older 84 to 88? regular cab trucks rear shafts and the cv out of your front. just cut the driveshaft 3 or 4 inches back from the weld near the u joint yoke on both rears. scrap the one or save for a spare. do the same with your front cv. take them to a machine shop and have them lathe the weld till the tubbing comes off. then beat those ends into whats left of the rear driveshaft once you cut them to length. make sure the u joint caps line up at either ends of the driveshaft when beating them on. reweld the ends on. I don't even worry about ballancing anymore and don't even notice the difference but some guys drill a hole and dump 1 oz of tranny fluid in to ballance. Its much cheaper than buying custom ones. I lathe my own so not sure how much You'd get raped for that. the v6 trannys have a 23 spline output and different mounting patern so that won't work with a 4 cyl or turbo gear driven case

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

for your speedo question, I use a cheapo GPS...seems to work pretty good

SwampThing

Yeah I agree. According to my gps, my speedo shows 4mph faster than I'm actually going with my 35s, 5.29s, and a g52 tranny.

I'd definitely go with duals over a single with the 4.7 crawl gear. Ideally one with the 2.3 and one with 4.7 for selectability. It sucks trying get around on a trail when 1:1 is too high and 4.7 is too low. Then get to the obstacle and drop it down to double lo, and hope you remember not to coast down a hill up to 25mph with the clutch in causing your clutch to turn into a frag grenade...

ffryno13

i'll probably just stick with the 2 2.3s for now until i get back from this deployment and then i am going to uprade everything from the ground up i leave in about 6 weeks and i dont work for the rest of the time so ill be barried in new parts and tools for the next week. YAY!!

ffryno13

what front CV's are you talking about?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

What school you in? I just finished WLC @ Lind, Feb 5 and depart for CRC the 28 Feb in Ft benning, 10 days later supose to be OIF but who knows maybe OEF we'll see.

i've got a really good good mechanic/fabricator/4wd builder going to do my SAS while I'm gone. Ran uot of time and want it wheelin ready when I get back.

The gear guy ZUK is worth every penny of his work and the shipping to him, he's done three 3rd for me. And did a photo juornal on each.

ffryno13

ok so i just talked to my local 4x4 shop Leonard's off road ( great guy does awesome work) its going to be about 1300 for gears installed and then if i want lockers he wont add any more labor to the bill just the cost of lockers, and it'll be about 2 weeks before i can even get my truck in there. my question is trail gear has complete 3rd members for like 6 or 7 hundred with gears and you can get lockers too. would it be better to just get new thirds and install those on my own? (sorry i keep writing so much on my own thread, i am just trying to keep you guys updated)

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I've had one other guy install gears for me, something wasn't right so I stamped and sent it to ZUK. I would have had problems with the first setup. Because ZUK photo'd everything I got my money back for the original install.