toyotanick

ok guys, i am finally doing my SAS which is going to be the IFS eliminator kit from trailgear. iam wondering, from you veterans of this swap, what you would have done different or would have like to do but didnt. also if you would reccomend a different kit i would love your input on it! thanks guys!

4x4runr

Is this your DD?

toyotanick

yeah, and i have driven a 4runner with the same kit already. rides better than my ifs, doesnt steer much worse. i liked it.

4x4runr

if money isn't an issue, I'd go with the 6 shooter knuckles from Trail Gear and dirty 30's axles with the rock assault housing. Hydro steer too or assist

These will be my next upgrades after the cage

toyotanick

hahaha danm good ideas and i will once my axle shafts break but im lookin for more along the lines of prep. should have plated something like this or maybe a quicker way someone found to cut the old stuff off, something like that buy hydro assist isnt far behind because i have a little ram already ready!

but housing is a little over the top lol

Kaptain

I'm running the same kit (over 4 years now). First thing is that I'm very glad I went with the lowest lift springs - which are 3" of course.
Mount the shackle tubes as far forward as you can so that you end up with a good shackle angle. Also tack weld the front hanger and install the springs to also check the shackle angle and to check to binds (not welded on straight).
Since then I've removed 2 leafs and then added 1 flat leaf to the front pack. To even it out I frenched the rear hangers. I'm real happy with these springs, I would buy them again - same goes for this kit.

Beaniam

Go as far forward with the axle as you can/want. Move the steering box as far forward as you can for draglink/tie rod clearance. Check my build thread for my mistakes and fixes that I learned along the way.

rusche

Dont buy six shooter knuckles. They are aftermarket aluminum, a factory cast, tapped for a 5th stud is MUCH stronger.

Also. RUF. Dont bother with TG springs. They will settle like mad and pull apart. Not to mention RUF moves your axle forward more aswell.

toyotanick

what is ruf? and do you know this for a fact?

toyotanick

OOOOO REAR UP FRONT! wow. haha well i mean i am buying the kit and it comes with the springs soo i kinda have to go with them, for a little while atleast!

t-1hundred

TG springs are fine IMO. yes they will settle but only an inch or so if that. plus they have great flex and handle good i like them, and my yotas a daily driver

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

This is one I did this past April at my shop.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-night-207960/

ALL the pictures of the SAS and rear lift

http://www.wabfab.org/Latest/photo-gallery.html

BEFORE


AFTER


It's a 4Runner but you get the idea. On a pickup the front and rear should match, I typically use 4" leaf springs on a pickup, I did on my 84 and my 85, and the 82 in my shop right now. Different lift levels need different hanger placement etc.

Don't try and skimp on what you are doing and take your time. Do it right and do it once instead of rushing through it cheap and boofyfabulous.

If you got any specific questions hit me up. Get ready to get your kits let me know.

toyotanick

glad to hear! also, my axle is the one that does not have the lower gusset built in. where can i find it? i have a toyota trailblazer that has the gusseted axle, but that truck will see way more hardcore stuff than this truck so it need it.

toyotanick

i have a bunch of money saved so i dont have to half ass it. and since i have the 3.0 i am doing the 5inch hd kit. i really liked how it rode and handled. oh and i also have a warn bumper and winch so itll work out well IMO.

oh and i tried to watch the live feed of that build but couldnt manage to schedule it in much haha and it was difficult to watch with the camera angle anyway. that 4runner looks sick

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Just a few Toyotas at the shop


Yep, only use the 5" HD springs if you got a winch and a heavy bumper, not needed otherwise.

That one had the 3.slow and we only used 4" front, 5" rear and it worked out nice. He is currently working on gathering parts for a 3.4 swap I think.

If you got any specific questions let me know. Get ready to order your kit(s) hit me up and I'll see if I can save you some money.

toyotanick

another thing i just found. on this build this guy put his front hanger bar waaaay ofrward and gusseted it nicely which is what i would like to do. can this be done and not have to move the steering box for a little while. i plan on moving the box the next weekend and will be doing nothing but road driving until then

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...d.php?t=146234

Tofer

Let me know when you want to order I can hook you up.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

No need to put the front hanger waaaay forward. It needs to be placed where your shackle angle is properly setup for your vehicle and lift height.

You don't have to always move the IFS box, didn't on the 95 4Runner, but you do need to plate and sleeve the frame, did that. Might as well do it when you do all that other stuff. Takes a couple hours at most for the steering.

toyotanick

ok and this can be done after the initial install im guessing... im hoping. and what about that lower gusset?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Most important place for gussetting is the armor on the diffs and on the knuckle balls. Never seen one added to the lower side if one not already there. Guess you could but don't know that it's needed.

Personally, I won't be building anymore Toyotas using stock axle housings either front or rear, going to use new upgraded axle housings.