SAS or Current IFS?
#1
SAS or Current IFS?
So right now I have a stock truck with 265/70/17 wheels. I really want to get 33/12.50/? Wheels. I off road my truck but I don't do anything major like rock crawling or anything like that, just going up hills and such, occasional mudding and playing etc. Other than that it is my daily driver and enjoy a comfortable drive. I just turned 18 and I'm low financially so I need to do something that will give me a bit more clearance and still maintain a comfortable ride.
I'm all for SAS but since I don't heavy wheel it, im financially low, and it's my DD, what's my best choice to fit the wheels I want with a little clearance?
I'm all for SAS but since I don't heavy wheel it, im financially low, and it's my DD, what's my best choice to fit the wheels I want with a little clearance?
#3
The width of 12.5" tires isn't worth the trouble on Toyotas. If it's a daily driver, use 32 or 33 x 10.5 sizes in an A/T if noise is an issue. The rolling resistance and requirement of bracket or body left for 12.5 widths is not worth the trade off. Go with pizza cutters and forget drag racing, because without different gears in the axles, it will slow down considerably. Brian4x4 cut fenders to clear 12.5's, you can Google it to see
#4
The width of 12.5" tires isn't worth the trouble on Toyotas. If it's a daily driver, use 32 or 33 x 10.5 sizes in an A/T if noise is an issue. The rolling resistance and requirement of bracket or body left for 12.5 widths is not worth the trade off. Go with pizza cutters and forget drag racing, because without different gears in the axles, it will slow down considerably. Brian4x4 cut fenders to clear 12.5's, you can Google it to see
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Keep your IFS for now. If in the future you find it to be a weakness that you cannot live with anymore for the type of wheeling you're doing, then you've justified the need for a SAS at that point.
If you just want to run some larger tires like 33s it's not that hard to do, but there is some stuff to think about. One thing is, are you planning to keep the 17" wheels or downsize to something like a 15 or 16? Tires with larger wheel size tend to cost more, but on the plus side is they have different heights/width spec's compared to a 15" tire. For example, a 15" wheel you've basically got a 10.5" wide tread or a 12.5" wide tread -- for a 17" wheel you can get an 11.5" tread.
If you go with 33x10.5-15 you will not technically need to do anything to your rig and the tires will fit stock 15" wheels, which you can find cheap. The downside to a 10.5 tire is the tire choices are limited to only a few brands, as the 12.5" tread is more popular among manufacturers.
For the 12.5 width, you will need aftermarket wheels that are not only wider than stock, but also have a shallower backspacing so they clear your IFS. Because they are wider and you're sticking them out slightly futher from center of your rig, the will contact the f/r of the wheel well unless you either clearance them or lift your rig.
Detailed explanations of all these combos can be found through searching here on YT or through Google. Educate yourself on your options, then ask questions about what you didn't understand. We like to help legit questions, but we don't like to help those who don't think for themselves first. Good luck!
If you just want to run some larger tires like 33s it's not that hard to do, but there is some stuff to think about. One thing is, are you planning to keep the 17" wheels or downsize to something like a 15 or 16? Tires with larger wheel size tend to cost more, but on the plus side is they have different heights/width spec's compared to a 15" tire. For example, a 15" wheel you've basically got a 10.5" wide tread or a 12.5" wide tread -- for a 17" wheel you can get an 11.5" tread.
If you go with 33x10.5-15 you will not technically need to do anything to your rig and the tires will fit stock 15" wheels, which you can find cheap. The downside to a 10.5 tire is the tire choices are limited to only a few brands, as the 12.5" tread is more popular among manufacturers.
For the 12.5 width, you will need aftermarket wheels that are not only wider than stock, but also have a shallower backspacing so they clear your IFS. Because they are wider and you're sticking them out slightly futher from center of your rig, the will contact the f/r of the wheel well unless you either clearance them or lift your rig.
Detailed explanations of all these combos can be found through searching here on YT or through Google. Educate yourself on your options, then ask questions about what you didn't understand. We like to help legit questions, but we don't like to help those who don't think for themselves first. Good luck!
#6
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I think these trucks look ridiculous with super wide and short tires. But to each is there own.
Also with the tires sticking past the fenders the truck will always have a road film on the sides. But if you like washing it every day to keep it looking cool it doesn't matter.
Also with the tires sticking past the fenders the truck will always have a road film on the sides. But if you like washing it every day to keep it looking cool it doesn't matter.
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#8
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
33x12x5 is easy peasy. You can run that on a 15x7 wheel with 3.75" backspacing. I've done it and yes it rubbed slightly at full lock in one direction, but otherwise no lift. Don't know why people make it seem hard to slap a set of fat tires on one. A small body lift only costs about $150 and you'd retain low COG, and more clearance for bigger tires- which give you the best kind of lift, more diff clearance.
Rattlewagon on here runs 35x12.5 and no lift and 2 lockers. Another member has run 37s with no lift. Yes, they've both trimmed and banged, but just an example of what's possible.
Rattlewagon on here runs 35x12.5 and no lift and 2 lockers. Another member has run 37s with no lift. Yes, they've both trimmed and banged, but just an example of what's possible.
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