Swapping out the factory coils for a set of (Maybe Downey(?) Recall Edition Coils.)
..FWIW these are the same spec as the FJ-C coils if anyone wants to do a 2-3" lift rather than using 80 series or Sequoia coils.


*Since I've been getting a lot of questions about the coil swap tech, I'm including this info for reference:

I have swapped to the older style aftermarket coils for the 4Runner that are the leveling style. The current aftermarket solution is to use OME coils.

There is also a factory solution most people are not aware of, and I'm a big fan of because although not a full OME kit, it is a choice to use. You will still need to either get newer torsion bars and shocks, or choose the well made and spec'd OME Kit.

The FJC-series style I use here needs a 4-1/2" bracket bolts spaced at 3-1/2".

It took a lot of work and experimentation to figure this all out. Trust me on it, but be sure to do the line pressure test, or have a qualified mechanic do it, as you need the rear line pressure at least to 828psi, as seen here: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...r/loadsens.pdf

FJC Rear Coils are the exact same as my coils. Same rate, rating, etc. They only level the ride as does the OME level kit. You only turn the torsion bars up another 2 to 2-1/2 full turns to bring things back in line, and actually want to do this to balance out the front to rear spring rates so you do not experience front end drop/plow. Technically you change the vehicle's stature from a sagging rear to level, in effect, technically a leveling, 2 to 2-1/2 change in height out back. The LSPV bracket, as with the 80-series setup fixes the line pressure.

Those doing the 80-series lift, wanting the 3"+ lift, and going with the 4Crawler ball-joint spacers, but needing the rear springs to be stiffer can goto the Sequoia coils, use the ball-joint spacers, then either set their torsion bars back to a higher tension, or goto the aftermarket (thicker) torsion bars, again, matching up the spring rates as best possible.