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Update.
So I tested the fuse box the circuit isn't complete without the fuse so that is working properly. I disconnected the tow package still on. I disconnected the top to see if that had something to do.
Ok so now let's eliminate a couple of things
Fuse checked and all fuses pulled one by one to see if there was a link in the box nothing there
Tow package was removed and disconnected from power. It was just spliced into the rear lights.
havent checked the switch it's self yet but if the fuse is pulled and the lights are still on its obviously not the switch right ?
I checked the relays by turning all my switches and can hear and feel all of them switch.
Ok so now here's some more things that have came to mind.
My hazard lights didn't use to blink until I turned on my blinker and then they would flash but now they just flash on there own.
Oh and I found a clipped wire as well that I know nothing about or where it goes too also what is the socket next to the gas cap release cable ?
This is the socket
The pink and purple wires are the ones that are clipped and no idea where they should go to.
Here's the tow package wiring spliced into the rear lights it's disconnected now
I read somewhere, owners manual maybe, that the socket is for the I believe optional "trouble light". Wow! You are somehow getting power to the Green wire after the fuse.
Oh I think I know what that is old Chevys had them u plug it in and it's like a work light. I guess I need to start following all the green wires then and tracing towards the battery. Any idea what the pink and purple one went to. The wiring in this truck has been butchered pretty bad the whole tailgate regulator has been chopped off and just running to the battery. The relay is disabled no rear wiper attached cruise control doesn't work my god the list goes on so this will be a nightmare tracing it. I guess I need wire diagrams and some coffee
I don't know about the pink and purple wires. The inspection light socket has black and white and white and black. Sounds like an old Ford truck I had, hours later I had a pile of useless wiring removed. Should have weighed it. I don't envy you, the coffee sounds good though. I did find pink and violet in the wiring diagrams, goes to the right front speaker. (This shows the inspection light as they call it)
Ok so I turned my truck on lights are off then battery and break light stay on I try to turn the running lights on nothing so I remembered that I had the fuse pulled. Turn truck off put fuse back in and it blows right away and the dome fuse was blown again. Now I'm pretty sure my alternator is going out and potentially my battery too. I'm kinda lost with which one it is I would like to replace them both but at this time can do one at a time is there a way to test which one is truly the culprit. Here's so more info the truck won't start unless I jump it now the volt meter reads about half way and my multimeter says when running 13.4 volts so I dunno about that and if I break and have turn signal on my truck sounds like it's gonna die. My tach wasn't even moving this morning on the drive to work so I have a bad electrical issue and I think to truly fix this I need to do new battery new alternator and all new grounds and bigger wires. Any quick fixes are appreciated until I can put the time and money in her which will be next weekend
I would look at the switch. It powers the tail light relay. If it is stuck on then the tail lights would stay on. You can check for voltage on the red and blue wire going to the tail light relay. Some auto parts stores can test your alternator if you take it out. I would think battery with the lights staying on. I would leave the dome fuse out and come back to that later. On edit: you're right with the fuse pulled you should have no lights. Sorry, I need one more cup of coffee I think. Hmmm...
So bought a new battery and had them test my alternator said it was a bad volt regulator which to my understanding is inside the alternator and needs to be replaced. ? Here's a question tho so is my alternator only having a hard time when the charge and break light are on or is this gonna be existent even with the lights off. I noticed them when I was driving up hills and down hills. ? I plan on taking out the alternator today. Found a used one for 20$ on CL any tips on installing and uninstalling an alternator. Doesn't seem to complicated unbolt move belt off detach battery and cables going to alternator and put new one in right? Anything to avoid ?
Also I left my tail fuse our for awhile put it in last night lights work again I'm thinking that the alternator was going out and maybe had something to do with it maybe there are shorts in the alternator I have it out now I'm gonna open it up and see what's up maybe fix it ?!
Alright so a whole day gone and I think it's fixed we'll see after a while of driving it I am noticing that my cold start high idle isn't as high but that might be because it hasn't been cold out at all the heater still blew hot I think I need to try and burp the coolant again but anyways.
So this was the problem and its on the internet that these things go bad and can be replaced apparently Toyota sells the housing with new brushes installed already but I just got the brushes for $3.69. Not bad at all
New brushes
Part number (FAX88)
You can see the obvious damaged one why they wore uneven is still beyond me
The surfaces is still smooth and isn't bent or anything
So now it's on the truck and I'll drive it for a bit and see how well it does. The way to test the alternator is to disconnect the negative battery while running and if it dies the alternator is dead?
Drove the truck today and it sounded fine maybe I got the belt to tight or to loose. But I did just find something odd. So before the battery completely dyed and the alternator was declared dead my electrical issue was the running lights being stuck on. Ok so tail Fuse is in and I can turn lights off and on but I noticed my clock resets every time I turn the lights on. The clock is off if my lights are off. So I decided to see if the dome fuse would blow. Put the fuse in it calls for a 7.5 amp fuse I only have a 10 or 5. When I put it in the running lights came all on ? So now how I rule out components so I can keep searching I want this truck to by my expo rig. Stuff like this does help me be more prepared. If I was to go on a long trip new belts, a new alternator, water pump, so far have been added to spare parts to bring. Any ways rant over. So the running lights work as should when some fuse is pulled. So we know that the switch works and the relay as well if it all works properly. I guess a wire diagram of the 2 circuits and if they intersect. Here's the odd part even if some where it was giving power to the running lights the switch is off and the power is off so
The dome light and running lights are fed by the same wire. But the power goes to the tail light relay. One thing that ties these two together is the Light Reminder Relay. I'm trying to see something here. That relay is supposed to be at the right kick panel.
Alright next check is the light reminder I haven't checked anything on the right kick panel yet or behind the glove box for installed BS it would make sens that the light reminder would be an issue but it's reading power I think so maybe I can find where it's coming from on that
Ok so I've got things working good engough for me I've got everything coming on as they should except for the dome I have the dome fuse pulled and I can run running lights on and off as they should except if I turn them off I can't turn on the dome and the clock turns off as well. So some where the tail and the dome are grounded my first idea is maybe the light warning relay
05-15-2015, 06:27 AM
