Rough, shakey, and weak after a new HG and and whole timing set.
#1
Rough, shakey, and weak after a new HG and and whole timing set.
So after a HG replacement and a Timing cover, Crank Sprocket, Timing Chain, and Belt Tension-er replacement cause of water and oil mixing. Finally done with all my work, I timed the engine to 8* BTDC and took it out for a drive, it shook really bad and it idles a little shakey too, suspecting that the chain was off a tooth on the cam sprocket, i took the valve cover off, when i rotated the engine i put the Crank on 0* and would look at the Cam sprocket and the notch on the sprocket is about 1*-2* after 12 o clock. Idk what the problem is, and why it shakes and feels like there is a dramatic loss in power, even when i turn the AC on the engine shakes even worse, so any load on the engine would make it shake.
please help me out here guys, thank you [:
please help me out here guys, thank you [:
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Salt Lake City UT
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You have the 22RE right? It's a interference engine, if you messed up the timing chain, the pistons should shake hands with the valves.
Lets start with the basics, all the plug wires in the right place? Are all the vacuum hoses on? Are you sure you have every thing that you un-plugged, plugged back in? Have you checked to see that your getting spark at every plug?
Just from a mistake I made, it you remove the throttle body? If so, who made the gasket that you replaced the old one with?
Lets start with the basics, all the plug wires in the right place? Are all the vacuum hoses on? Are you sure you have every thing that you un-plugged, plugged back in? Have you checked to see that your getting spark at every plug?
Just from a mistake I made, it you remove the throttle body? If so, who made the gasket that you replaced the old one with?
#3
Yes i have a 22re, im pretty sure all wires are connected and vaccum hoses are on, what wires or vaccum lines would make it shake that bad though?
um, ill check the spark, would i just take the plug out and put it near the chassis?
yes i did removed the throttle body and all my gaskets are fel-pro except for the head gasket which i bought from the dealership.
thank you [:
um, ill check the spark, would i just take the plug out and put it near the chassis?
yes i did removed the throttle body and all my gaskets are fel-pro except for the head gasket which i bought from the dealership.
thank you [:
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sounds like you're off a tooth. should'nt the notch should be a smidge before 12 oclock?how far did you have to adjust your dist. to get 8 deg? maybe your dist. is off a tooth also.
#6
ohhh its a smidge before 12 for the cam notch, OK ill fix that, hmmmm for 8 degs was was pretty much a Lil advanced i didn't have to turn the dist too dramatically, ill fix the cam and play around with the distributor and see whats up thank you [:
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
If the crank is at TDC, the cam keyway should be at 12:00 and the dimple on the cam sprocket (the timing mark you matched the chain to) should be about 11:30, give or take; just slightly to the left of 12:00.
Trending Topics
#8
Also i took of my TPS sensor when repairing my truck and when i put it back on i tried to match it up to the old marks, how would i double check if it was right or not?
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#13
yes, i did set the timing with the jumper, how to i make sure that the dist. is correct?
do i put the rotor at 12 and just push it in and the rotor should be at the number one pole?
do i put the rotor at 12 and just push it in and the rotor should be at the number one pole?
#15
After you install the distributor the rotor should be pointing toward the #1 spark plug wire, not necessarily dead on it. It will turn clockwise as you slide it in, start with it a little before #1 and it should end up near #1. If you install it one tooth too far or too less it will point way off away or before from #1. Just to clarify the #1 plug wire on the distributor is one the top side closest to the front of the engine. You should be able to fine tune the timing from there, which should be 5* btdc, with the idle set at base using the jumper wire. All assuming the timing chain set is installed correctly, crank and cam gear notches should be at 12 o'clock and the dimples on the cam gear should be slightly to the left of 12 o'clock.
Last edited by scarlton; 12-12-2009 at 10:37 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post