rough running 3.0 v6 210,700 miles
05-16-2007, 01:18 PM
#1
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rough running 3.0 v6 210,700 miles
So I was driving home last night and my check engine light turns on the (first time ever) pull into the driveway stut off truck check things out and go to start it again and all it does is turn over try again same thing 2/3 more times then it idles rought give it a bit of gas and it dies 3/4 more times same thing.
check under the hood once again see nothing out of the norm start it and runs like a champ so I figure its just a fluke. This morning get up go out start truck check engine light still on so I run upto the parts store 2 miles to have them scan it and get the oil change stuff I need and it runs great get therer and they say its got to be 95 up for there scanner ok buy my oil change and head home get ready for work. The first 1 3/4 miles great turn on to street to house and truck starts bucking like wild and trying to die get it into the driveway and it idles fine give it a bit of gas and it gets all crazy then smooths out again idles fine a bit of gas it get all rough till it hits the sweet spot then it runslike a new motor and the check engine light is out now but runs real ruff any ideas???
check under the hood once again see nothing out of the norm start it and runs like a champ so I figure its just a fluke. This morning get up go out start truck check engine light still on so I run upto the parts store 2 miles to have them scan it and get the oil change stuff I need and it runs great get therer and they say its got to be 95 up for there scanner ok buy my oil change and head home get ready for work. The first 1 3/4 miles great turn on to street to house and truck starts bucking like wild and trying to die get it into the driveway and it idles fine give it a bit of gas and it gets all crazy then smooths out again idles fine a bit of gas it get all rough till it hits the sweet spot then it runslike a new motor and the check engine light is out now but runs real ruff any ideas???
05-17-2007, 04:56 PM
#5
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I'm with you here man, having similar problems with my 93 3.0. Autozone told me the same thing about it needing to be a 96-up for them to run the code, so I went up to a local tire place who they pointed me to, and they said it would be $80 to pull the freaking codes! Call me spoiled, but this is the first time that I have owned a vehicle older than a 96, and have never had this problem. Somebody help us out here, how do we get the codes pulled w/o paying an arm and leg!
05-17-2007, 05:20 PM
#6
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Hey, im not sure about the 3.0, but on my rig:
Open the OBD compartment right next to the ECU.
There should be little ports and holes that look like plug sockets.
Unfold 2 paper clips and stick them in the T and the E ports.
Turn your car on to ACCESSORY.
Your "check engine" light should come on and blink how ever many times. The way it blinks is the way it gives you the code.
From there, get the code, for example 12 blinks would be "Code 12."
Then you go in to your code index and look up the problem.
Open the OBD compartment right next to the ECU.
There should be little ports and holes that look like plug sockets.
Unfold 2 paper clips and stick them in the T and the E ports.
Turn your car on to ACCESSORY.
Your "check engine" light should come on and blink how ever many times. The way it blinks is the way it gives you the code.
From there, get the code, for example 12 blinks would be "Code 12."
Then you go in to your code index and look up the problem.
05-17-2007, 05:39 PM
#7
Registered User
Hey, im not sure about the 3.0, but on my rig:
Open the OBD compartment right next to the ECU.
There should be little ports and holes that look like plug sockets.
Unfold 2 paper clips and stick them in the T and the E ports.
Turn your car on to ACCESSORY.
Your "check engine" light should come on and blink how ever many times. The way it blinks is the way it gives you the code.
From there, get the code, for example 12 blinks would be "Code 12."
Then you go in to your code index and look up the problem.
Open the OBD compartment right next to the ECU.
There should be little ports and holes that look like plug sockets.
Unfold 2 paper clips and stick them in the T and the E ports.
Turn your car on to ACCESSORY.
Your "check engine" light should come on and blink how ever many times. The way it blinks is the way it gives you the code.
From there, get the code, for example 12 blinks would be "Code 12."
Then you go in to your code index and look up the problem.
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05-17-2007, 07:10 PM
#8
Registered User
Yes, it does. My check engine light came on a few years ago after I changed air filters and then it failed to start. I did this procedure and using the blinks and index found out that it was the AFM(air flow meter?) not sure of the terminology. anyway, I bought a newer used one and installed it. The engine started right up.
05-17-2007, 07:11 PM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sunland Park, NM
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Hey Raven,
I just did the paperclip thing and pulled up the codes.....I can send pics in the morning...and explain the situation to ya very easy....
lunalobowolf
I just did the paperclip thing and pulled up the codes.....I can send pics in the morning...and explain the situation to ya very easy....
lunalobowolf
05-18-2007, 05:08 AM
#11
Registered User
Alright, please disregard my above question because I figured it out. I got a code 25, and using this link http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
I have alot of options... suggestions?
I have alot of options... suggestions?
05-18-2007, 05:34 AM
#12
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i had kind of a simluar issue on my 1990. turns out the dingleberry who owned the truck prior to me broke 4-5 plug connectors and they viberate and sometimes loose connection. 2 are injector clips, 1 is a sensor on top, anotehr is a seonsor on the driver's side, and I'm looking for 1 more cause it's still kinda rough sometimes. The hanress is also chaifed because he did not mount it back to the factory connecitno points, so i have to repair that as well. so in sort here's a quick way to test
on the driver side, the injector harnes, take your hand put it under the harness and puch on it and also lift it up a some and pusl on it more. if this fixes your issues, you have a chafed harness somepalce along the top of the motor.
chafed = shroted or expised wires due to cracked, burnt, or broke wireing casing.
on the driver side, the injector harnes, take your hand put it under the harness and puch on it and also lift it up a some and pusl on it more. if this fixes your issues, you have a chafed harness somepalce along the top of the motor.
chafed = shroted or expised wires due to cracked, burnt, or broke wireing casing.
05-19-2007, 04:03 AM
#16
Registered User
Sorry fellas... I'm one of the dreaded newbies. My forum etiquette is definetly lacking. I guess I just got excited that there was a recent thread dealing with exactly the same problem I was having. Also, I was trying not to start my own thread for fear of reprisal from the "Why didn't you SEARCH!!!" crowd. Just figuring this whole thing out, I'll leave it alone now. Thanks
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