buckz6319

I was working on the 95 4runner 3.0 v-6 4x4 automatic... today trying to get it to idle like it should I did the timing adjustment per the FMS but for some reason when I moved the distributor to change the timing there was no difference in rpms( even though I did the jumper wire to the TE1 and E1).I remember on the older autos with the distributors when they were moved in several positions there was a great change in the rpms up or down from what I can recall?...well when I rotate the distributor on my 4runner there is change on the timing mark on the pully but I can't really here any change in rpms...Can the TPS not be working.
I can't get this 4runner to idle like it should(800rpms at idle engine at operating temp).. and I have tried the idle air adjusting screw but it makes no difference at all with engine at operating temp.I can pump my power breaks and the idle goes up to where it should be but when I take my foot off the idle goes back down below 500 rpm in drive..I turn my steering wheel to left and the rpms go up and I move the steering wheel back where there is no strain on the power steering pump and the rpms go back down..and so on...
Can these issues be caused by a bad TPS?....

Matt16

Try cleaning you throttle body. On my 22RE I can almost kill the engine by cranking the air adjustment screw down. After cleaning my TB, the idle went up my 2-300 rpm meaning there was crud plugging throttle bypass where air flows through at idle.

Make sure to use "Throttle body cleaner" not "carb cleaner".

Targetnut

when you jumper the Te1-E1 in the diagnostic connector you should note a slight drop in RPM and the timing should retard about 5 degrees or so.

If not, check the TPS. The voltage at the IDL contact should read close to 0 with the throttle closed and should come up to 5V when you just crack the throttle open.

abecedarian

yup yup. if the idle does not change when you insert the jumper it is likely the TPS isn't adjusted properly or is malfunctioning.

buckz6319

is there a chance I still have a vacuum leak OR is the TPS suspect?....why would my idle change when I turn the steering wheel and push the break peddle?....not a huge change but noticeable....I have checked and rechecked all the vacuum lines but can't locate the source of leak
thook.... mentioned in another thread I started to trying to find a shop with a..... smoke machine vacuum leak detector....but around here no shop has one so any ideas on the correct way to check for vacuum leaks
Thanks to ALL...for the help...

buckz6319

I would like to check my Idle Air Control Valve but I can't locate it on my 95 3.0
I have seen the pic in the Haynes manual and the FMS but for some reason I can't locate it on my engine block.I think it may have some of that RED DOOKIE in it from the crap that was put in my radiator from the P.O.
I think that my low idle may be coming from the IACV because I can't find ant vacuum leaks any where and a vacuum leak will make the engine rpms higher ?....but I'm idleing lowand would like to know if any one has a color pic of this so called Idle Air Control Valve and it's location if I indeed have one
Thanks for any help
Dwayne

Zinek

Idle air valve is located under the throttle body, it is controlled thermostatically by the coolant.

buckz6319

Zinek....thanks for the info...If it is under the throttle body then I know what it looks like.....when I removed the throttle body to repair the hole where a plug was I had to disconnect the black rubber hoses that went to it one on each side of the IACV and actually unscrewed the cover just to look inside it because i thought the darn thing may have gotten some RED stuff clogging it up.
The IACV was not stopped up I blew through the tubes and they were clear...but there was a large blackish round thing inside there it had a slit across the top and a plunger kinda thing and it looked like it could be unscrewed?... but I didn't remove it because I thought I had to have a sst to remove it? what can I use to remove this?...and should I remove this to clean it or look inside it /
here is a pic of the repair I did on my throttle body because I drilled out the plug that I thought had a idle screw under it but boy was i on crack (RED ARROW IS THE REPAIR)..(YELLOW ARROW IS THE SCREW THAT DIES MY ENGINE WHEN TURNED ALL THE WAY TO FULL SEAT...is that supposed to do that?..I can turn it all the way out and the idle doesn't change but if removed the engine will die also)....the IACV is on the bottom of this throttle body correct? and i put a new gasket on the throttle body because the P>O. used some type of RTV on it stupid like I was drilling out that plug

Zinek

Air filtered through the air cleaner passes through the volume air flow meter and the amount flowing
to the air intake chamber is determined according to the throttle valve opening in the throttle
body and the engine speed.
The volume air flow meter measures the intake air flow by the opening of the measuring plate in
response to the volume of intake air to the engine.
Located in the throttle body is the throttle valve, which regulates the volume of intake air to the
engine. Intake air controlled by the throttle valve opening is distributed from the air intake chamber
to the manifold of each cylinder and is drawn into the combustion chamber.
At low temperatures the air valve opens and air flows through the air valve and the throttle body,
into the air intake chamber. During engine warming up, even if the throttle valve is completely
closed, air flows to the air intake chamber, thereby increasing the idle speed (first idle operation).
The air intake chamber prevents pulsation of the intake air, reduces the influence on the volume
air flow meter and increases the accuracy of the measurement of the intake air volume. It also
prevents intake air interference in each cylinder.

buckz6319

Zinek..........WOW! that is a mouth full........thanks for the info....I do understand now how the air fuel delivery system works some what...confusing but sounds good to me

Zinek

Just trying to make it as clear as possible so you understand how the system works. I hope it helped you understand.

buckz6319

I unplugged mt TPS sensor and the CEL came on (as it should?) and the engine runs a lot smoother and at a higher idle which I expected.
Now with the TPS unplugged it also affects the transmission which I didn't know...why is this?

any way I plugged the TPS back up and my low idle is back but the transmission is normal now
so I think I may have gotten some throttle body cleaner in the TPS? because before I messed with the throttle body I didn't have a low idle

so do I need a new TPS?.

Jay351

check the TPS and check the wiring... I have a bad wire from the ECM and tps... it sucks

buckz6319

Targetnut....&...abecedarian
Update.... FIXED LOW IDLE ISSUE.......thanks for all the help on my low idle issue.....
IT WAS A BAD TPS!............and now I can adjust the idle air bypass valve screw and it works well when I screw it in (with the engine warm at normal operating temp) it lowers the rpms.... and when I turn it counter clockwise it raises the rpms... so I guess all is working correct....

Flash319

And the difference is....?????

buckz6319

the difference is.... normal idle in park 800 rpms.....more pick up when accelerating....and better transmission shifting (which I need because of the 3.slow...)...and idles just fine in Drive
I still have to get to the bottom of my vibration and I'm still working on that issue

buckz6319

even though I replaced the TPS and it was working fine....this morning I started the 4runner and it sounded like and felt like it was flooding out again and the out side temp was 22 degrese the 4runner went back to ideling low againg and continued to do so for miles until I got to work this morning anout 25 miles

Now is there something else that could cause this issue?

buckz6319

sitting in park the 4runner ..(95 SR5 4x4 V6 Auto 178,000 miles)..with engine ideling at normal operating tempeature and 800 rpms.

I can turn the steering wheel a little to the right and idle goes up about 100 rpms and when I turn the steering wheel back straight it idles back down to normal...The same thing happens when I turn the wheel to the left a little and back to straight position.

I also can pump the break peddle for a few strokes and the idle will go up also I think that is normal?...but the steering wheel idle up and down is not normal?

any suggestions on what to check
thanks
Dwayne