ttrmike

So i was adjusting the valve lash settings on my truck (87 with a rebuilt 22R with less than 10,000mi), and the #4 intake valve rocker adjuster became seized. The little screw that adjusts the lash settings wont move at all, and when I was trying to break the screw loose, the top of it broke off. So, i have ordered another rocker arm from Napa that includes the rocker arm, adjusting bolt, and jam nut.

My plan is to drain the oil and coolant from the block, remove the spark plugs, and pull the last two head bolts at the back of the engine. Then I wanted to undo the screws securing the rocker shafts to the holders and pull off the rocker arm retainer at the back of the engine. Does anyone think the headgasket will be alright if I remove the last two head bolts? Is there an easier way to replace the #4 rocker arm? I hope to get this truck up and running as soon as possible, so I appreciate any help.

xxxtreme22r

head bolts are removed and installed in a certain order for a reason. I'll leave it at that.

But it's not gonna work that way anyway, there is locating dowels under those rocker shaft stands and they won't just slide off, you have to lift the shaft assembly, in order to do that you have to remove all the head bolts.

ttrmike

Damn, I was hoping that wasn't the case.

So, I'm going to have to pull all the head bolts and then the entire rocker assembly to replace this one rocker. I'm just concerned about the head gasket after removing all the head bolts. Its a MLS headgasket that came with the rebuild, and its one part on this truck that i dont want to mess with. Do you think the headgasket will be OK for the short amount of time it takes to replace the rocker?

xxxtreme22r

I've never done it with the head still attached, but I've seen some people use ratchet straps to hole the head down and from moving. Not sure on the real MLS gaskets though as they are different then your standard OEM graphite or Rock gaskets. This is assuming you really mean a real MLS gasket and not a Rock style gasket.

fierohink

The problem area is the mating surface between either the head or block and the gasket. If that bond is disturbed in any way you will not have a proper seal when you torque everything back down. The movement could possibly be so small that you wouldn't see it, even torqueing down the head with a ratchet strap might be enough to shift things.

IMO if you are doing as much mechanical "work" as is involved in setting the valve lash then you can do a headgasket without any problem. It really just comes down to more bolts and good organization.

Here's one with a lot of good pictures:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...thread-210796/

fierohink

I think you would be very disappointed if you try to cheat and not pull the head and a week from now you have a blown headgasket and have to do this again anyway.

GDR

I did a cam and rocker arm change on a built 20r. It was bored out with 10-1 pistons and dual Mikunis. Revved to 7k. Did it after work in the street with a buddy holding a flash light. Didn't drain anything. i was young and didn't know better. I had less than 1k on the motor at the time and it was fine at 40k before I stripped the truck down and junked it.The head is located with dowels and get stuck on pretty good with the gasket so movement shouldn't be a problem. I didn't have a MLS gasket but if you do a search on them people reuse them after removing them(which I wouldn't do).