Tool Pants

I think you are right. That bearing fits on the alignment tool. It is also sealed on both ends.





Now I fell better. Transmission will not have to come out for another 19 years and I'll be dead by then.

When I replaced the clutch 19 years ago there was no piolt bearing in the kit. I did not see the clutch kit the guy used when he rebuilt my transmission, but I have what sure looks like a used piolt bearing.

kampgnar

You're lucky to have an honest mechanic. I searched for a while before I finally decided on a tech to rebuild my w56a.
And $620 to pull, rebuild, and reinstall your transmission is a deal! I paid $450 shipped just for the rebuild kit from Marlin. I pulled everything out of the truck and brought it to the technician to rebuild, and put it all back together in the driveway.
Even though you have a 2wd absent of a transfercase, you still made out paying almost half of what I did doing the "hard" labor myself.

terrybo3

That is definitely the pilot bearing.

I would not have argued paying $620 to have someone else do it...I was getting quoted $1200 or so just for a clutch job vs. paying $300 for the parts and doing it myself. Not to mention the fact that I'm having a little fun, and making sure the job's done right.

Which leads me to repeat a previous question... Is the plate around the rear main seal under any pressure? When I unbolted it, I pulled it out a little, and I saw some silicone in there. My rear main seal came with a gasket for that plate. I couldn't get the oil pan off, so I just torqued everything down. Is that going to leak? If so, and I need to take to oil pan off...how do I get that off without messing the oil pan up?

kampgnar

"Which leads me to repeat a previous question... Is the plate around the rear main seal under any pressure? When I unbolted it, I pulled it out a little, and I saw some silicone in there. My rear main seal came with a gasket for that plate. I couldn't get the oil pan off, so I just torqued everything down. Is that going to leak? If so, and I need to take to oil pan off...how do I get that off without messing the oil pan up?"

Are you saying that you unbolted the rms housing from the block and oilpan and then tried to remove it, but saw that it was held onto the block with rtv and just torqued it back to spec? If so, you may have broken that seal depending on how much movement the housing made.
You do not have to drop your oil pan to remove the rms housing. Remove the bolts from the block and the oil pan bolts that attach directly to the bottom of the housing. Use a little bit of pressure to break the seal... I gently but firmly tapped the housing with a block of maple to break the seal, came right off.
I used a new gasket where the housing met the block, and some black RTV where the housing met the oil pan gasket.
With the rms housing unbolted it is not under mechanical pressure. It's being held in place by the gasket's bond.

kampgnar

Just to follow up...I also unbolted the housing first thinking that I would take the extra step instead of just popping the seal out with a screwdriver. I found that it appeared stuck very well with all of the bolts removed. After a few minutes of trying to get it off, I said screw it and began working on the seal by itself.
After the rms seal popped out, I realized that it would be a really good idea to just take the housing off also because it was possible that the pressure from prying the seal out and the initial pressure of trying to remove the housing most likely would have broken the seal.
As soon as the seal broke, it took less than five minutes to clean the housing and get it resealed and bolted in place.

I don't know if the seal was actually broken to begin with, but I feel way better knowing that everything was done correctly.
I would take that housing off and do it right.

jason191918

terrybo3

Sweet.

I'm going to take that as I don't need to take the trans back out, everything back off, and tackle that rms plate.

Now...I will be watching very closely what happens with that, and I'll let you guys know if I see any leaks.

Bogo

Mine soon won't either. I'm going to be replacing the transmission and clutch in a '94 22RE/4x4 Pickup.

On the exhaust. I've also read you can do it without removing it. That is what I plan to do. I'll also be using the block of wood as a prop under the oil pan. I'll also be changing the rear main seal on the engine. It has 100 less than 250k miles on it. My one in my other pickup went at 220k. I think I'll also do the transfer case output shaft seals.

forbiddenera

haha
if you're surprised, go look at mine..
i'd post the pics but my web server is down
i should go fix that

Bogo

Looks like the remains of the shifter seat. You can get an OEM replacement and push it in, or go to Marlin Crawler and get their heavy duty replacement.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra...rans_parts.htm

I tacked another one on my order for a different truck thant the one I'm replacing the transmission in.

terrybo3

No leaks!!!!!! ( so far... )