kampgnar

For the rear main seal (just did this on a 22RE, don't know for sure if the exact same on the 3.0)...use a flathead screwdriver with tape on the ends and about three inches up the shaft to protect the crankshaft surface. Push the tip in the seal lip and use the end of the crankshaft as a fulcrum for the screwdriver shaft.
I had a hard time getting it out at first, tried fabbing up a few tools thinking it would be easier, but in the end all I needed was a screwdriver with some force and it popped right out. A previous post said to use a seal puller, but this would not work as even the smaller hook was too large to fit between the seal and crankshaft.

Even with all of my careful work and prep, I still managed to put a small nick on the crankshaft surface. I went over the surface with very,very light sandpaper and polished it up with light synthetic steel wool. Even after popping the seal out, I pulled the retainer housing off to gain access to the whole crankshaft end and make sure that it was smooth as possible over the entire surface.

Make sure you use something like Vaseline to prime the new RMS. Make sure that the seal lip is folded down in the correct natural position. Check to see if the surface has grooves from the old seal. If it does have a groove, you can either...
1)press the seal in farther in or out to avoid riding on the groove
2)press a repair sleeve on the crankshaft end

Make sure you get that flywheel resurfaced before installing the new clutch.
New bolts for the clutch assembly-to-flywheel is a very good idea and an inexpensive investment...I had one of the original bolt heads shear off during final torque.

terrybo3

Hey guys!

It's been a long time waiting for this jack, but I finally found one I can use. I got the transmission out in less than 30 minutes with all the prep work I had already done. The engine didn't move at all, and I found out I had to take the differential out anyways so I could get to the rear main seal and replace everything there. Anyways, I though I would include some pictures for you guys:

Transmission OUT!! I left the crossmember on so I could use it as a "handle". It worked out pretty good. I lowered the trans a little, backed it out, lowered it, etc. until it was not attached any more. Simple stuff...


Jason, this is what you were talking about (stiffener plate), right? As I was pulling the trans back, it fell out on the ground.


Here's inside the bell housing right after I pulled the trans out. It was really dirty in there, and I bought a new input shaft seal...but, after I cleaned everything up, it looked good. I returned the seal.


Pressure plate and clutch before:


Here's a close-up of the pressure plate. It didn't look too bad...


BUT, when I took that off, I saw the pilot bearing. Wow... No wonder my truck was hard to shift, etc. I don't know if you guys have read any of my other threads...but, I think I figured out 80% of what was wrong with my truck in the first place!


Closer look:


The clutch didn't look too bad, either:


This fell out when I pulled everything apart (pressure plate & clutch disk):


Along with the inside of the smaller part of the bearing...it was like tin foil!


Here's a better look at the fubar'd bearing with the flywheel removed:


I got the inside of the trans cleaned up with some break fluid and a tooth brush. That took forever, sitting out in the hot sun! I used a putty knife, too, but the tooth brush and some paper towels worked wonders. After I put the new throw out bearing in I noticed it is a little loose on the shaft. That's normal, right?


And, a new pilot bearing tapped in:


So, that's how I spent my day today... If anyone knows if that throw out bearing is supposed to be a little loose, PLEASE let me know. I'm thinking that's a normal fit, since it doesn't really do anything but slide on that shaft...

I don't have any pictures of the diff out because I started drinking some beer by that time, and I got a little stupid and forgot to take any pictures. I will take some tomorrow. I am planning on dropping the oil pan and getting the rear main seal in tomorrow, but we're supposed to have rain...so, we'll see what happens.

iamsuperbleeder

yay, I love pulling trans's...

NOT

On that note, may I suggest that if you have the extra cash, go ahead and throw in a new clutch while you've got it all apart?

If not a whole new set, at least a new throwout bearing and clutch disk... I'd consider a clutch disk like brake shoes; when a wheel cylinder leaks, you replace the shoes because they absorbe the brake fluid. Now I'm not 100% sure if the clutch material will do the same with motor oil, but considering the PITA it is to replace, I'd rather not take the chance...

Oh, and make sure you clean that flywheel AND the surface of the pressure plate that engages with the clutch disk really, REALLY good before throwing it all back together... You may also want to consider resurficing that flywheel if after cleaning it still look's purdy bad; usually doesn't cost all that much at a machine shop.





EDIT: NM, I'm retarded... I just read that you got the Exedy kit for it, lol... but I still hold firm about the flywheel...




Just my .02 though, great job on the progress so far!

881stGenRunner

do not drop the oil pan to do the rear main seal. You do not need to. it should pop out with a little bit of VERY CAREFUL prying with a screwdriver.

jason191918

superbleeder-the name of the thread is "replacing clutch"....pretty sure a new one is coming in.

genrunner is right about the oil pan (unless you plan on doing the oil pan gasket or the rear seal plate gasket (which is the small piece around the outside of the rear main))....looking at the pics i see you have already unbolted it. Would it come off w/o takin off the oil pan? Mine wouldn't.

Are you using a manual of some sort as a guide? Make sure you put grease on the inside of the throwout bearing (input shaft), the pivot point for the fork, and i think a few other spots. Get that fly wheel ground down. As you install the flywheel and pressure plate, make sure you spray it down w/ brake clean to get the oil off of it. (must use brake clean here).

Check all of the bolts inside of the bell housing....one of mine was backing out.

And yes that is the stiffener I was talking about.

Matt16

[QUOTE=Jay351;50884339]...the truck won't go!!!

You don't need it anyways. It just adds weight.

iamsuperbleeder

[QUOTE=Matt16;50898097]... now that sounds familiar from somewhere... where have I read that before...

nmtoy

I would still replace the input shaft seal before you put it back together, it's easy to do and cheap insurance for your new clutch.

Robb

terrybo3

The input shaft seal is fine. No Leak.

As for the flywheel...I GOT A NEW ONE OF THOSE, TOO!!!

And, I am DEFINITELY going to replace the rear main. I know I can pry it out with a screwdriver, but I can't get the plate off and replace that gasket without pulling the oil pan. When the dealer did the oil pickup tube, they made a gasket for the oil pan, and it looks like poop...so I'm doing it over, and replacing the rear main, etc. at that time.

Don't tell me not to pull the oil pan, man! I already pulled the diff!!! ARGH!!!

Edit: Oh yeah, I've got a Hanes Manual and good old YotaTech to help me out...that's about it. I didn't think about greasing the points on the clutch fork, though...thanks for that. The throw out bearing came with some high temp grease I already used, and I'll put some on the end of the input shaft and inside the new pilot bearing. What else should I grease before putting back together?

I ALWAYS check for loose bolts...haven't found any yet.

jason191918

Ah yes, the pilot/input shaft was the other one that I had forgot to mention.

Jay351

[QUOTE=Matt16;50898097]

Hahaha! Just need a nice long peice of tube to run from the flywheel to the rear end

terrybo3

Ok...here's yesterday's progress on everything. I took the front diff out, but I couldn't get the oil pan off. They really glued that thing on there!! I decided to just leave it, and use the "pry with a screwdriver" method to get the old rear main out, and just tapped the new one in there. I hope nothing leaks.

Here's Pictures:

New Rear Main:


Closer look:


Here's the new flywheel:


New Pressure plate (new clutch disk inside...you guys know what that looks like...


I do have another questions for you guys. When I took the transfer case shifter out, look what I found up top...WHAT IS THAT???


All there is left to do is put the trans back up in there, and bolt everything back up. I did get some threadlock, and am putting that on EVERYTHING. My girl doesn't want to work on the truck today, though, so I'll probably be hanging out at the beach. Good thing her car works!!

nmtoy

Looks like what is left of your old shifter seat, now is a good time to replace it.

Robb

jason191918

In the last pic of post 22 it looks like you unbolted the rear seal plate. Did you get that out w/o removing the oil pan? If not, I hope you sealed it w/ some silicone.

Guardian_Saint

...Tap that pilot bearing in as far as u can. It seem that you haven't done that much on it. It always fun fixing car in a day then watching football or basketball...

terrybo3

The rear seal plate isn't under any pressure, right? I did unbolt that, and I didn't seal anything up...I torqued the bolts to spec and put everything together. Do you think I'll have a problem?

jason191918

Most likely. With the seal there should have been a small gasket in it. When I unbolted it, I had to "pop" it off because of all the silicone that was there originally. No it is not under pressure. Any others want to chime in about it leaking?

Tool Pants

I have a 1988 2wd that I have owned since 1989. It had 30,000 miles when I bought it. The clutch felt funny when I bought it, so I replaced it on my driveway. Old clutch looked like new. Since I had bought a clutch kit I put it in anyway. With the new clutch in it still felt funny. I was use to clutchs on sports cars - this was my first truck. Waste of time replacing the clutch.

A few months ago I had my transmission rebuilt because it had a bad bearing. $300 labor and $220 for the rebuild kit. 19 years later it was time to take the transmission out again and drop it off at the rebuild shop. I'm old now and did not want to spend a day on my back under the truck. The guy who was going to rebuild the transmission said for another $100 he would remove and replace it. After looking at your pictures I'm glad I had him do it. Once was enough for me.

That stuff on your finger is grease and a ground up plastic shifter seat. Mine looked just like that. The guy who rebuilt the transmission said what was left of the seat had fallen into the transmission. Without the seat people say the shift lever is sloppy. But I never had trouble finding the gears. This is the new seat that was put in.



I also had the rear oil seal replaced since he had the flywheel out to be resurfaced. You can see the old seal in this picture.



After picking up the truck I remembered I forgot to tell him to replace the piolt bearing. The guy does good work so I hope he replace it if it was bad. He gave me all my old parts. Does anyone see a piolt bearing in the picture? I was not charged for a piolt bearing, so I hope it was included in the transmission rebuild kit.

abecedarian

[quote=iamsuperbleeder;50898099]hint: "drain the oil, it just adds weight."

kampgnar

Looks like the pilot bearing is in the bottom row, third from the farthest right?
The pilot bearing is usually included in the clutch kit, not the transmission rebuild kit.