meisentones

Truck is an 89 p/up with V6 and manual hubs.

I believe I broke a gear tooth in my IFS third. I have Axle code G292 which is 8.0" 4.10 gears 2 Pinion. I am running 33" tires, and have been considering regearing. I found at the a savage yard in Atlanta, GA a 4Runner with ADD with Axle code G144 which is 8.0" 4.88 gears 4 Pinion.

I've preformed my searches and it seems a differential swap would be gravy. I just wanted to post to make sure I wasn't missing anything.

Main concern is:

1) Is it still a direct swap going from 2 pinion to 4 pinion?

2) I will be obtaining an ADD differential, but want to retain the non-ADD. I believe all I have to do is swap out the half shaft on my current carrier with the one I will be obtaining. Anything else?

3) I've read that the stock V6 4.88 are "unique", but are they good? Is this a good conversion, or should I go towards aftermarket 4.88?

4)Am I missing anything?

Thanks to all!

toyota4x4907

1). Yes

2). That, or just leave the ADD tube on, but you would have to permanently slide the fork and gear to the locked position. Not difficult at all.

3). Factory 4.88s are unique in that the housings and carriers can only use those factory gear sets.

4). have fun

meisentones

Thanks! One more question...How long should I expect to spend at the savage yard removing both differentials?

4xdude

Pretty quick, 45min tops.... Rear is 4 bolts on each axle end. Cut the steel brake lines,slip out axles (with drums attached),and remove bolts holding third member in. For the frt Remove the 6x 17 or 19mm nut to lossen each c.v's. and the 2 bolts for the diff. and the 4 cross member bolts its loose. you may have to cock-it to get one side to drop. You may have to take the drive shafts loose. Should be pretty easy

ra33it

Its a heck of a lot easier with impact to get the bolts off that connect the CV's to the front third. Bring a battery powered impact gun, and a spare battery. Just my .02.

meisentones

Thanks Guys! Pretty excited to be regeared!

hgill

I did this like a month ago... from 4.10 (non-ADD) to 4.88 (ADD).

#2: I swapped out the half shaft from the non-ADD front 3rd member on to the 4.88 3rd member to keep things simple instead of sliding the fork to permanent side.

In order to replace the half shaft, I had to replace the front oil seal (see FSM for details) which was like $6 bucks at autozone. One more thing, you will need to buy torx/star shaped socket set .. E14 socket to remove the bolts on the ADD shaft. Not sure why Toyota has different bolts on ADD and non -ADD.

Also, replaced the studs with bolts&nuts for simple CV boot replacement in future.

Good luck ... you will love the regained power after re-gearing with 33"....

B-yodaful

take lot-o-picks

meisentones

Thanks for the advice and info guys. I'll be heading to the salvage yard tomorrow for the removal.

rattlewagon

4.88 on 33s is going to be nice and low. Good find!

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

The front 7.5" 4.88 front diff is nothing special.
The rear 8" 4.88 diff has a special housing and a "thin" ring gear.
You don't have to swap the front half shafts, you can just actuate the diff and plug the vacuum fittings.

meisentones

We ride in an excavation pit, and do a lot of dirt climbs, so looking forward to the lower gears. I am a bit concerned about highway driving. I take my baby on a lot of road/camping trips, so I'm a bit corious how she'll run. I did the gear calculator, and cruising 75 was just over 3000 rpm. I think she'll be good.

As far as actuating the the ADD half shaft, I thought about this, but have two concerns:

Worried about reliability of the ADD. Even if activated, seems I could rip off the vac hose or something. I also read that the ADD axle was slightly weaked than the non-ADD axle.

I'll probably wait till I actually have the thirds sitting in front of me before I make a decision.

meisentones

Well, I've encountered a speed bump and could use some advice. I was just informed that I can not use a jack at the salvage yard. Now I'm not really sure how I'll be able to lower the ifs. Isn't it a bit heavy? I even read that I should use a jack to free the rear diff from its seal..any suggestions on how to accomplish these two things (without the use of a jack) would be greatly appreciated.

meisentones

I'm heading out there in an hour or so, and wanted to bump this to see if anyone had any suggestions.

Zombie

How did you make out?

meisentones

I got them both removed! So first I must say...
!!!!

It would have been a million times harder is it wasn't for all the info on here, and all the support from you guys. So, big thanks!

I apologise, I did not get any pics. It took me almost 3 hours total, split between two different afternoons. The salvage yard closes at 6:00, and both days I was rushed out of there.

The only real problem I encountered was a bolt on the rear driveshaft. It was on the top, on the inside of an angle, so could not get anything on it. Because it was at a salvage yard, I had no key to put in the ignition sop I could put the automatic transmission in neutral so I could rotate the driveshaft. Took me about 30 minutes to figure out how to disconnect the automatic shift linkage on the transmission so I could shift the thing into neutral and rotate the drive shaft.

Besides that, the multi-angle half inch drive came in vary handy on the bolts on the CV axles.

So only problem was due to the fact that I could not bring in a jack, to bust loose the rear third, I banged on it with a 4 lb sledge and had to let it fall into the gravel. That resulted in sand getting on the gears. Also, a jack on the front third would have made things a 100 times easier, and prevented it from falling on my thumb. After a few F-bombs I was celebrating and hauling the units home.

When I got home I soaked them both in Napa engine degreaser, and hosed them off. I sprayed heal good in the gears on the front third, and then coated the gears with Napa open gear oil.

now they are both wrapped up in tarps sitting on my back proch waiting on the next step...

Locker!!!

Thats right, found a great deal on a lock right for the rear, which should be here end of next week.

We have a trip next weekend to Atlanta, but the following weekend I'll be installing the locker, and doing some prep work for the install.

Thanks for all the info guys, I'll keep you updated with pics from here on out.

Peace, and I'm out like a thief in the night!!!

Iknowstar

That is great. I am getting ready to install my factory 4:88's in tomorrow. Just got my 33's yesterday. What are you doing for a locker?

Teuf

Subscribed.

meisentones

Found a brand new lock.right on craigs for 150. Sold! Should be here Friday.

meisentones

I installed the lockright into my rear third tonight. However, I don't know if I set the bearing adjuster nuts correctly. I marked the adjuster nut, but when I reinstalled them I am not 100% sure if the adjuster nuts are set correctly. It seems to me that either one of them could be either a 360 degree turn tighter or looser. The installation manual says to re-install the adjuster nuts to the marked locations, but how do I know if I put enough or too many rotations?

I guess the only way to know for sure is to check the backlash or am I missing something?

Thanks guys.