Cam72SS

Hey fellas been watchin the site from a distance for a while now here and finally decided to join up!! I should let ya know ive got a blue '95 runner on my hands with 145k miles. Anyways a few days ago I had my runner taken to the shop to replace a blown brake line...i have just been real busy lately no time to do it on my daily driver. so i got it back and the mech tells me that all my other lines are on the verge of blowing too.. and in one of these great holiday breaks coming up id like to fix er up. problem is i looked into the engine bay at the lines and it looks like they r all coiled up together, looks impossible to replace! So whats the easiest way to change all of them to a set that wont rust out again? i'm talking everything...im not looking to cut out bad sections. and where would you guys recommend buying all of them cheap and painless as possible?

So thats my brake issue, but the other thing i thought i should add into the mix is the fact that I am looking for a bigger lift. I have a set of stock runner coils in there with spacers and they are looking pretty shot to me...tons of sag. I don't have too much in the toy fund right now so i'd like to put in some LC coils? I'm not too sure what else i would need...i think i heard you need a new bracket for the panhard bar and longer brake lines & shocks? If i'm looking to replace the lines anyways i guess i could go longer to accomodate for a bigger lift but i have no idea what to get. And to level out the front end i figured some bj spacers....not too sure if that would be a good idea though since i plow with it during the winter.

sorry about this big mess i dropped on you guys! figured you would have some great input based on what i've seen. time for another brew

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Buy all new OEM prebent lines or remove what you got and make your own. No cheap options here.

I have nice 2" lifts for your 4Runner.

Welcome to Yotatech.

:wabbit2:

Cam72SS

hey, thanks alot. wheres cheapest place to buy? also I wasnt asking as much as to what i should get, i was more along the lines of asking how do you swap em out?

shaeff

If I were doing a project like this, I'd replace everything with stainless steel brake lines and never worry about them again.

snowbear

Plastic brake lines are easy to install and cost less than steel, plus they never wear out.

tim a.

plastic COATED brake lines are good for about 5 years.Most brake lines dont wear out,they rust out.Last time I used polyarmour brake line,I got just at 5 years.They best way to go is stainless,but its expensive.Classic tube will bend you up a set that will outlast the truck,and look factory.I just replaced the ones on my dodge.There is no easy way to do it,other than one at a time.You may have to drop the fuel tank,depending on routing.There is also a nickel copper brake line that has some good reviews,but it aint cheap either.Spray all your fittings a week before starting,and you may need to heat up some fittings with a small torch if they stick.Good line wrench is a must,and most of all patience

Cam72SS

yeah stainless is my first option but honestly i havent looked thru prices yet and i figured stainless would cost me. guess ill just check out and compare price vs funding. i mean if they are cheaper to buy straight as opposed to prebent i can just bend them myself. guess ill just have to jack er up and take a look...was just lookin for an easy way out lol figured id ask before i go in bashing knuckles unnecessarily!

also want to get your guys input on what will ease the weight of a plow on the front end? coilovers?

PismoJoe

I don't know what type of industrial shops are in your area, but there's one around here called coast brake and clutch that specializes in making brake lines of all sorts, as well as P/S hoses, and pretty much anything hose or line related.

Anyways, my point is that places like that can make you stainless steel break lines for a fraction of what they cost on line. Just take them your old lines, and they will re use your fittings but splice in new stainless lines on them. Just a thought

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I think what your mechanic was talking about was the rubber flex lines. They wear out as obvious by your blow out plus the expand so you lose braking power. If money is tight a set of replacement stock lines will hold you till you get you lift figured out. Make sure to really flush your brake system out, you'll be suprised at how much crap will come out. Use a set of line wrench or you our only going to get upset when you start rounding off the line bolts.

I have extend steel braided lines for the lift and for strength, but replaced the old lines about two months before the suspension upgrade, then sold them afterwards. Brakes aren't something to put on the back burner.

Welcome to YT

Cam72SS

hadnt thought of that pismo. i would have to think about it though because the truck would be out of commission for a while while i have them made. that seems to be a cheap option though so i think i'll go for it. i dont know what your talking about with rubber flex lines though...i think the steel part of the line just rusted through and burst. and when you say line wrench...you talking about a wrench thats specifically made for pulling line bolts off? and 1 more thing lol, for parts like bj spacers and coil spacers (stuff you need to get new) what is the best site online to get stuff like that? i know of 4wheel parts but maybe theres another site i dont know about with better prices??

come to think of it my passenger side cv boot has been ripped for about 6 months ever since my lower control arm snapped....maybe i should get that fixed as well before the snow starts to fall

PismoJoe

A line wrench is another name for a flare nut wrench, you just need a 10mm for most brake/clutch lines. I got a whole craftsman metric set for about $30

Good luck on your mission

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I must have missed the part about a hard line bursting, blonde moment.

Cam72SS

haha no no, i really wasnt too clear when i started the thread

anyways about the metric set, i got one a long time ago. dang metrics
i'll let u guys know once ive got a new set ready to drop in!

snowbear

No I mean plastic, NOT coated. Cheap, easy and fast to run.

tim a.

THen you would mean not DOT fmvs legal.I think the objective here would be to keep it safe and legal.Race car stuff dont go on the street

Triumphman

Hey, I just blew a brake line under my 1993 Toyo 4x4, lucky it happened while backing down to turn in my driveway! It was under the right side frame, about midway. I got 2- five foot sections of PA-360 polymer coated brake line from Car Quest. Joined them with a brass colored union. Cut out the old stuff. Brackets are a bitch to remove! Soaked the rusty ends with PB Blaster penetrating catalyst (stuff is great). Borrowed a bender pliers but did not need them. The stuff bends so easily. Masking taped the end threads, pushed one section to the right side, up over the right side gas tank to the rear union thingy, hand tightend it , repeated for the front section, to the union in the right wheel well area, hand tightened it there, then hand bent all up to the frame where the old lines were! Connected union in center of the two 5 footers. Replace as many brackets as I could open or remove. Filled master brake cyl. with fresh brake fluid. Bled system (jar and tubing method) very time consuming, back and forth, push down pedal, secure with a stick, crawl under right rear wheel , open bleeder, repeat, repeat, till all air is out and strong pedal is felt! Done! Cheap and simple. Only had to heat one end with mini torch to remove, and vice grip out! Cost: 2 - five foot 3/16" polymer coated brake lines $12.20, one brass fitting $2.49, tax $1.19 = Total $ 15.88 and my time and energy which is priceless. But I saved mucho dinero keeping my mechanic out of my pocket, he wanted $90.00 an hour plus parts, which he charges 3x their cost! Big ripoff! I am now going to replace the two brake lines from the master cylinder across the firewall and down to the unions on the frame which are accesable through the right front wheelwell! Wow, I love saving money! I curse the rust but hey my '93 Toyo 4x4 is how old? 18 years old, and these are original brake lines, lucky me! Hope this helps! Just don't give up, do like me, take a brake, get a coffee, soak the ends, fix something else, then go back to it! You'll get it done. I did! AND I ain't no mechanic! Just handy and persistent! Enjoy!

Triumphman

Hey, all you fellow Veterans from all branches of service! Thank you for your service to our Country! Peace is with us because of your sacrifices! I am U.S. Army, Vietnam era 1967-1969. I am proud of my service and sacrifices! It was worth every day I served! You are revered and honored on this day! Peace comes at a terrible cost. Thank you again brothers in arms! Triumphman 11-11-11.

Triumphman

I apologize, I forgot to ask, I am replacing all my brake lines, that are bursting one at a time! My 1993 4x4 has two lines from the master cylinder, that run across the firewall, down to the right frame. I can see tow unions. One for each line, going to the rear of the truck, over the right rear wheel. To a box like thingy. That is all replace. Except the firewall lines. My question is, there are two coils of brake lines just before each union box, accesable through the right front wheel well. I have measured the lines twice from the master cyl. to the unions. A five foot section just makes it! Without the coils. DO I NEED TO BEND IN THE COILS? What are they there for? I can make it with 5 foot section of brake line, but if I have to put in the coils, I will have to add more brake line, unions and the coil sections. More hastle and expense, and time! Can I just run the lines without the coil section?

GuitarMike

I'm curious about that coil stuff, too! Anyone?

*posting to get the email alert so I can follow discussion

HAVOC

My friend replaced 80% of the hardlines on his 91 pickup. Theye weren't expensive at all from the dealer.
I'd buy them before trying to make 'em.