Replaced thermostat, blew head gasket, how much???
#1
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Thread Starter
Replaced thermostat, blew head gasket, how much???
As my luck always seem to go, I fix something cheap and easy only to have something much more costly happen next.
My thermostat needed to be replaced because I was having issues with O/D in cold weather. Put a new one in last night, drove it around, no problems. Took it on a trip today, didn't lose O/D once. Hooray!
Well upon returning home I noticed a bunch of white smoke, or actually steam coming from the exhaust, which is really only a sign of one thing...a blown head gasket (or cracked block I guess).
I have never done this before, but I have a brother and a dad who are mechanics, so I have help. My question is how much is this going to cost me. Is the big expense of replacing the head gasket labor? I found one online and it was $80.
If the block is actually cracked, which I doubt but who knows, does that pretty much mean I need a new engine?
Looking for any help I can get.
1990 4Runner, V6 3.0L 4 Door, 4WD
Thanks
Mike
My thermostat needed to be replaced because I was having issues with O/D in cold weather. Put a new one in last night, drove it around, no problems. Took it on a trip today, didn't lose O/D once. Hooray!
Well upon returning home I noticed a bunch of white smoke, or actually steam coming from the exhaust, which is really only a sign of one thing...a blown head gasket (or cracked block I guess).
I have never done this before, but I have a brother and a dad who are mechanics, so I have help. My question is how much is this going to cost me. Is the big expense of replacing the head gasket labor? I found one online and it was $80.
If the block is actually cracked, which I doubt but who knows, does that pretty much mean I need a new engine?
Looking for any help I can get.
1990 4Runner, V6 3.0L 4 Door, 4WD
Thanks
Mike
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Next question, does anyone know how to check my VIN with the SSC for head gaskets? I saw a lot of people via a Google search that had this done in 06, is it possible they will still replace mine?
That would be the only good news I've had today. Drove 300 miles round trip to watch my favorite basketball team lose, truck broken down, wife and kids are sick (daughter puking as I arrived home) and the dog ate the corner of my downstairs carpet.
A free repair just might make it all worth it!
That would be the only good news I've had today. Drove 300 miles round trip to watch my favorite basketball team lose, truck broken down, wife and kids are sick (daughter puking as I arrived home) and the dog ate the corner of my downstairs carpet.
A free repair just might make it all worth it!
#3
Registered User
For a reputable shop to do the job, they would also recommend doing a valve grind while you have the heads off since 3.0's love to burn exhaust valves. It will typically run between $2200 and $2900 parts labor and machine work. I have done them for friends and others and charge them $1000 and make a list of parts to buy, plus whatever the machine shop charges me. Saves them money over the shop. Take my advice, do it right and your truck will last tht much longer
#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks, considering I only paid $2750 for the truck 3 years ago, I don't think I'd pay more than that to fix it.
I'll keep my fingers crossed, call Yota on Monday. If not, guess I'll have to find a new one.
I'll keep my fingers crossed, call Yota on Monday. If not, guess I'll have to find a new one.
#7
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Thread Starter
I live in Oregon
The truck is in good shape, all items worked prior to this. There was a rattle (like a marble in a tin can) coming from underneath when cold, I think it's the cadiletic (SP?) converter. But the engine ran great. Just put in a brand new radiator and shroud. Replaced the alt recently as well. 31" tires and alloy wheels.
The only thing that doesn't work on the truck is the rear defog. All seatbelts are in the vehicle and in tacked (was missing back middle when I bought it). Dashboard bezel (clear plastic) is not cracked, done a lot of work on ebay and junkyard to get all the little knicks and knacks fixed and back to OEM.
Oh and the back winshield wiper doesn't like to go back into the boot all the time.
The truck is in good shape, all items worked prior to this. There was a rattle (like a marble in a tin can) coming from underneath when cold, I think it's the cadiletic (SP?) converter. But the engine ran great. Just put in a brand new radiator and shroud. Replaced the alt recently as well. 31" tires and alloy wheels.
The only thing that doesn't work on the truck is the rear defog. All seatbelts are in the vehicle and in tacked (was missing back middle when I bought it). Dashboard bezel (clear plastic) is not cracked, done a lot of work on ebay and junkyard to get all the little knicks and knacks fixed and back to OEM.
Oh and the back winshield wiper doesn't like to go back into the boot all the time.
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#10
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Thread Starter
So here is where I'm at...I don't want to spend $2500, mainly because I don't have $2500. I also don't really want to do this myself, seems very intense and I don't have the time.
A friend of mine suggest block seal today. Said "it can't hurt". For $20, he's right. As of now I have a very large paperweight sitting in front of my house, so I tend to agree.
I have read a lot about K&W Block Seal and one case even said it worked on a car dripping water from the tailpipe. Said in most cases it makes the vehicle a "town car" meaning to and from the store but no highway or heavy driving. That would be an upgrade for me.
So I am down to two options.
Option A: K & W Chemical Head Gasket & Block Repair: Permanent; w/Nanotechnology
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tNumber=401232
Option B: K & W Chemical Block Seal Block & Radiator Repair: Permanent MetallicTM
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tNumber=401016
From what I can tell, Option A doesn't require a anti-freeze flush. If that's the case, I'm going to try that one first. If it does, I will probably go the lesser route first and try that. I haven't seen anything on the "nanotech" yet, but quite a few people suggested using the original block seal, all claim decent results.
Worst case scenario is that it doesn't work and I am right where I started, just short $20. I can handle that. I'll let you know how it turns out.
A friend of mine suggest block seal today. Said "it can't hurt". For $20, he's right. As of now I have a very large paperweight sitting in front of my house, so I tend to agree.
I have read a lot about K&W Block Seal and one case even said it worked on a car dripping water from the tailpipe. Said in most cases it makes the vehicle a "town car" meaning to and from the store but no highway or heavy driving. That would be an upgrade for me.
So I am down to two options.
Option A: K & W Chemical Head Gasket & Block Repair: Permanent; w/Nanotechnology
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tNumber=401232
Option B: K & W Chemical Block Seal Block & Radiator Repair: Permanent MetallicTM
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tNumber=401016
From what I can tell, Option A doesn't require a anti-freeze flush. If that's the case, I'm going to try that one first. If it does, I will probably go the lesser route first and try that. I haven't seen anything on the "nanotech" yet, but quite a few people suggested using the original block seal, all claim decent results.
Worst case scenario is that it doesn't work and I am right where I started, just short $20. I can handle that. I'll let you know how it turns out.
#11
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Location: Long Beach, CA
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for god's sake man, don't do that. do anything but that. i've got a real pain on my hands now because someone did that to my 3.0 at some point.
check out this post.
i'm suspecting this stuff was dumped in by the guy that did my blown HG at 155k. at 185k now the headgasket is blown again, and probably has been for 10k. probably explain why i've had to replace the radiator and several hoses in the last 15k. there's no telling how much of this crap needs to be scraped out of who knows where.
just say "NO!" to cooling system snake oil!
check out this post.
i'm suspecting this stuff was dumped in by the guy that did my blown HG at 155k. at 185k now the headgasket is blown again, and probably has been for 10k. probably explain why i've had to replace the radiator and several hoses in the last 15k. there's no telling how much of this crap needs to be scraped out of who knows where.
just say "NO!" to cooling system snake oil!
#12
i questioned my local toyota dealer about the head gasket recall for the 4runners, mine wasn't done, and won't be done, the campaign closed a couple years ago, so not likely gonna happen
#13
Registered User
and for $20 you wont be where you started, youll be pulling the whole motor for a rebuild
pull the thermostat back out until you figure out who is gonna fix it. just deal with the OD issue till then.
id go back to the stealer and argue the recall and get it done that way!
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blew, block, gasket, head, ive, kandw, kw, nanotechnology, permanent, repair, repairing, replaced, thermostat, thermostats, worth